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Discussion Starter #1
Changed the right rear wheel bearing today (silly enough turned out to be the left that's making the noise!!).

Anyway after I did this, the brake pedal is not acting normal, and the handbrake does not work on the right rear caliper. What is strange is that the pedal goes to the floor, but no external leak is visible, and the fluid level in the reservoir is stable and nice, but to keep the brake power up I need to pump brake.

I'll have to go and change the left bearing soon and take a look at it, but is the hydraulics and handbrake mechanism connected on these calipers? I though the handbrake was entirely mechanical, and the fluid was not related to this?
 

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Wen i changed my rear pads i had a similar problem afterwards. I reset the handbrake cable in the centre console. Its a completely auto adjust handbrake, i just lifted the ratchet and let it adjust its self up. Wen ratchet is loose pump brake pedal to get pads back on the disc then use the handbrake, took a couple of applications with the handbrake to adjust t back to 1,2 clicks.

sent from my non apple product usin free autoguide.com
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you also have problems with brake pedal going to the floor, or just handbrake not working?
 

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Pedal travel was worse until i reset handbrake. The brakes still worked but didnt feel right

sent from my non apple product usin free autoguide.com
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok. Will have to do some investigation tomorrow, but I must say it is really strange that pedal performance is affected by the mechanical part of the braking system.

Thumbs down to Peugeot on that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Changed the other wheel bearing today, and noise is gone :)

I took of the right caliper again, and it is quite strange this one.

Yesterday I wound the caliper piston 1 round inwards, and today when I took off the wheel, there was 3mm slack between the caliper and the brake pads.

And it did not help if I went to pump the pedal, went back and still the same slack.

Wound the piston out 1 turn again and managed to get it on. Now pedal feels much better (more or less like before).

I'm starting to think that the handbrake is working good, but maybe I after all have some problems with my ABS unit. As the pedal creeps to the bottom quite fast when pressed hard during idling stand still.

Also pads on left side was much more worn than on right side..

Used ABS unit next maybe.
 

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Rear calipers are not the best on these to be honest we have had to replace at least 6 on our taxis (same calipers as 407) for various reasons but mainly leaking at the handbrake lever.

Sometimes we do need to do as 407xjr says and release cable adjuster then re adjust to get handbrake to behave.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok. I didn't manage to find any leaks on mine though.
So it seem to work ok enough now, but hydraulic pressure at the caliper seem to be too low.

So I still guess there might be something fishy with the ABS unit. I've been struggling with this strange pedal behaviour for a long time.
 

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Try bleeding just that caliper see if you have pressure might be a sticky valve in the ABS unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did try a lot of bleeding some months ago, ran through in total 3 litres of fluid, and activated ABS solenoids with PP2000 etc. air was certainly gone, but still funny pedal feeling, and pedal creeping to bottom.

So I think there might be internal leak in ABS unit on the circuit going to right rear caliper.

Sticky valve in ABS unit = change unit I suppose?

Car has now 214k miles on the clock, so could well be.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok guys.

Today I bolted off both rear calipers.

The one that were problematic before I had to disassemble. I did screw/rotate the piston so it would come out, it did not come out by using the brake pedal...

I took piston completely out to have a look, and things looked quite ok.

Got it together again, but now I have no handbrake again.
The "treaded" rod inside the piston, is that supposed to be able to rotate only one way? As mine seem to rotate both ways, and I would think that would be a bad thing when it comes to hand-brake function?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Noone got a clue about this?

I dismantled an old girling caliper today which apparently have the same parking brake mecanism, but on that one the rod in the piston did rotate both ways indeed.

I'm a bit amused as I have no clue how to go on. Zero handbrake on right wheel but the wire is pulled longer on that one than on the other side, so it seem there is no resistance between the rod and the piston. However I can't understand why, the threaded rod don't seem to have too steep angle of the threads, so I would believe it should stick on friction once one tries to apply the handbrake.

Might it help to pump the piston out, and then screw it in again just as far as absoloutely necessary? I would think this shouldn't be an issue though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Been searching the web and I think I'm on track of something now.

The pin seem to be able to spin both ways, and should only lock up when hydraulic pressure rises and a "clutch" engages and stops rotation.

It also seem that if one are touching the handbrake lever, prior to bleeding, taking up the slack in calipers and adding a significant braking force on the pedal, the autoadjustment in the caliper will be disturbed.

Apparently one need to wind the caliper fully in, and then wind it one turn out before re-fitting, also now making sure to apply significant braking force prior to testing the handbrake.

Will try it tomorrow and see if I can make it all work in the end :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just continuing my monologue.

But the handbrake is now better than ever.

Just took both calipers off, turned the pistons in until they stopped.
Then turned them out so I barely could fit them over the pads.

Then started engine and braked as hard as I could.

Then applied handbrake. Result! :)
 
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