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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

This morning, after scraping the frost off of the windscreen, I drove to the local shop with no problem. When I came out, I turned the key in the ignition and nothing happened. All the normal dash lights came on but the engine didn’t turnover. So I removed the key reset the immobiliser with the alarm remote and tried again. Same thing happened so I repeated this process about five or six times and eventually it turned over and started. I had the same problem about a month ago, and at the time I thought perhaps the battery needed charging but if the battery needs charging, how come it started perfectly well after the fifth or sixth attempt. I have noticed in the past year or so, that sometimes when I turn the key, there seems to be a delay of two or three seconds before the engine turns over. I don’t think it was always like that, and I don’t think it’s an immobiliser fault either, because if I try to start the engine before disarming the immobiliser, the engine will turn over but not fire up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The only thing I heard was a very slight noise from what sounded like the starter motor, as if it was stuck solid and couldn't move. Thinking about it, I suppose it could be a faulty starter, but when it turns the engine over, it doesn't seem to struggle and the car always starts easily. When the weather improves, I will have go over all of the connections and check it with planet. :nod:
 

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If you hear the solenoid throw but starter not engage, then starter knackered.
Also if you hear nothing, then starter knackered, but check you have 12volts on main supply and on solenoid control wire when ignition is turned to start.
 

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Planet wont tell you anything regarding this.
Starter motors are so small now, don't have a good life expectancy!
quite common for starter to work when cold, but once engine warms up, to fail when faulty.
sounds like new starter motor required, sorry
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies guys. I'll check it out when I'm feeling up to it. Feel a bit rough at the moment, got the flu or something. Thanks again. :thumb:
 

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When my 307 engine cuts out and I try to start it I also hear a faint clicking noise coming from the clovebox area. It is the sound that a relay makes and not nearly as loud as the starter solenoid.
 

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BOTH posters on here are thinking the locking and unlocking is the immobiliser its NOT

the buttons on the remote have NOTHING to do with starting or not

key has 2 parts the remote which locks the doors/sets alarm

The immobiliser chip is read automatically by the car regardless of the doors being locked or unlocked your REAL issue lies elsewhere the locking and unlocking is pure coincidence.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I'm not confusing the locking and unlocking with the immobiliser. The immobiliser is on the remote for my alarm. I have a TOAD alarm, which is an after market one. If I don't press the dissarm button, the car will not start, even if the key is in the ignition. When I get into the car, I have about 30 seconds to start the engine, if I don't, the immobiliser will activate again.
 

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I'm not confusing the locking and unlocking with the immobiliser. The immobiliser is on the remote for my alarm. I have a TOAD alarm, which is an after market one. If I don't press the dissarm button, the car will not start, even if the key is in the ignition. When I get into the car, I have about 30 seconds to start the engine, if I don't, the immobiliser will activate again.
so you now have 2 immobilisers as you also have a factory fitted one
 

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I'm not confusing the locking and unlocking with the immobiliser. The immobiliser is on the remote for my alarm. I have a TOAD alarm, which is an after market one. If I don't press the dissarm button, the car will not start, even if the key is in the ignition. When I get into the car, I have about 30 seconds to start the engine, if I don't, the immobiliser will activate again.
Why would you wont or even need a second immobiliser?
That's just asking for trouble!
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
It's not a second immobiliser it is connected to the cars internal one. The key has to be in the ignition and I have to press the dissarm button on the alarm remote. I didn't design the thing or even have it fitted, that's how it works. They must be good alarm systems because it's one of the one's recommended by the insurance companies, it's a TOAD Ai606, look it up.
 

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Diagnostic

Hello Janner.
Sorry to hi-jack you post but I need help to diagnose my 206 ABS Fault and believe you have the right kit in the Plymouth area to do it.
Regards Jowdak.
07760198045
 

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jowdak do not hi-jack posts especially old ones as it gets confusing and time wasting. If you need help start your own thread!
Absolutely. The correct thing to do is send a PM to whoever you want to get in touch with.
Or start a new thread describing your problems and make, year, and model of your car, then it will be seen by people who may well be able to help you.

Roger.
 
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