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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

I have been a Peugeot owner for many years, having had several 309's and then moved to a Partner a few years ago. I also own a Citroen Relay (Peugeot Boxer/Fiat Ducato). I have the same problem with both the Partner and the Relay/Boxer which I suspect is related to the arcane workings of the BSI gubbins.

I have replaced the rear interior light unit festoon bulbs in both vehicles with LED replacements, and have had no problems up until today.

I have replicated the problem on the Partner (although the main issue is with the Relay) and think it's something to do with the BSI.

Now, what was wrong with a permanent live to the interior light, and then a three way switch (on - off - doors) with a simple door contact that grounds when a door is opened I don't know, but obviously this is far too obvious and simplistic for PSA.

Anyhow, I have an interior light over the back doors in the Relay/Boxer which is supposed to work in the same manner as any other interior light. Activated on rear door opening, permanently off or switched on. Simples, you would think?

No! There are three wires to the light. A supply (12v one would assume), a ground (hah!) and a door-switched ground (hah! again).

If I leave the light on (switched) for some time (ten minutes or so - I've not had the patience to time it exactly), it goes off again on its own. No amount of trying to switch it on or off makes any odds. I suspect that there is some 'timeout' in the BSI to prevent you leaving interior lights on and flattening the battery. When I measure the voltage between the supply (?) wire and vehicle ground, it reads around 3v.

Question 1 then. Is the '12v' feed to the interior lights controlled via the BSI?

When I do get 12v back again (after opening and closing doors, turning the front courtesy lights on and off again) the light doesn't work. Connecting to either of the two other wires (switched ground/permanent ground) doesn't do anything. If I leave it, go and have a brew or whatever and then come back for another play, everything seems to work again for a while, then I go back to square 1.

Question 2 then. Are the two 'grounds' (switched or otherwise) also outputs from the BSI?

Question 3. Is there any possible way to 'reprogram' the interior lighting control on the BSI, or would I be better off just leaving door switches in place (as I assume they are also inputs to the alarm/immobiliser), ripping out all the Mickey Mouse thin wires to the interior lights and just rewiring them as 'conventional' lights with additional conventional grounded doors-witches and bypass the BSI altogether?

The reason? I need interior lights that don't switch off unless I want them to because I am converting both the Partner and Relay/Boxer into stealth mode campers...and I don't want to fanny around opening or shutting doors or switching front courtesy lights on and off every ten minutes while I'm trying to read a book!

Yes, the Relay will ultimately have a full-on campervan electrical system and an auxilliary battery and lighting systems, but the Partner hasn't really got the space for that sort of adaption. I know I could just use an LED headlight torch to read, but that's cheating!

Thanks for any help.

Mike
 

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As you say the BSI controls the interior lighting, to be fair to PSA the idea of the timeout is to reduce the risk of the battery being flattened. Re-programming the BSI might be possible but probably easier to run a fused link direct from the battery to feed the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My thoughts were heading in that direction. Replacing 3x 12w lamps with 3x 0.25W LED modules goes a long way towards preventing a flat battery in the first place...effectively that's 1/48th of the consumption so I could happily leave them switched on for 8 hours and only drain the battery as much as the ten minute timeout would allow with conventional bulbs.

Both my vehicles are 2002 model year so are fairly 'primitive', but I did read somewhere on the web that there are certain 'tweaks' that can be done to the BSI without having to plug in any diagnostic devices to the CANBUS. Opening the drivers door and operating certain controls in a certain way can turn various functions on or off, but I think this only applies to later model years.

A roll of 16/0.2mm wire and the crimping kit it is then!

Thanks for the input
 
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