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307 SW 1,6 petrol 2005, 197k KM

Hello!

Just had my car MOTed. It got through but the inspector said my inner tie rod ends were borderline. I looked this up in Haynes and SEDRE, and it seems I need a couple of special Peugeot tools for the job to avoid damaging the steering rack. With a new rack costing over 600£ I´d rather avoid breaking it. Does anyone have any experience changing them? Or should I just take it to a garage?

Thanks!
 

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Changed one of my inner tie rod ends 2 yrs ago. Also thought special tool was needed but was told a heavy duty monkey wrench will get it off which i used although not alot of room i recall.

Remember to put loctite when putting new one on. These can be picked up as little as £10 on ebay. I should have replaced the 2 tie rod ends as the other side came up as an advisory on the last mot. :rolleyes:

There are also good utube video's out there on changing them.

Someone else might point you in the direction of the rack but £600 seems alot
 

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Did mine with a spanner for the rod, and a ring spanner on the rod end (the ring slotted over the stud and turning it).

I'd advise lashing it with WD40 or PlusGas and a blowtorch too, as they can be a bugger to get off due to seizing/corrosion
 

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Did mine with a spanner for the rod, and a ring spanner on the rod end (the ring slotted over the stud and turning it).

I'd advise lashing it with WD40 or PlusGas and a blowtorch too, as they can be a bugger to get off due to seizing/corrosion
The old one on my car didn't have any notches at the ball end but the new one did :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Changed one of my inner tie rod ends 2 yrs ago. Also thought special tool was needed but was told a heavy duty monkey wrench will get it off which i used although not alot of room i recall.

Remember to put loctite when putting new one on. These can be picked up as little as £10 on ebay. I should have replaced the 2 tie rod ends as the other side came up as an advisory on the last mot. :rolleyes:

There are also good utube video's out there on changing them.

Someone else might point you in the direction of the rack but £600 seems alot
Did mine with a spanner for the rod, and a ring spanner on the rod end (the ring slotted over the stud and turning it).

I'd advise lashing it with WD40 or PlusGas and a blowtorch too, as they can be a bugger to get off due to seizing/corrosion
So neither of you used anything to hold the rack steady? I see one of the tools are made for that.
 

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i am also struggling with this right now, my car is in peices in my driveway, ive tried with mole grips, rubber strap wrench, chain strap wrench, water pump pliers, plumbers pliers, also tried loosening the whole rack to try and pull it over a bit so i could get more room, but it wont budge, the bloody sway bar is in the way and the bolts on that one are rusted tight (couldnt get them off with oxy/acytelin when i did my coils...)
im at a loss here.
do i just drag it down the road and leave it to rot or keep trying?
i guess i can take the sway bar off the subframe and move it out the way enough to get some better grip on the tie rod?
 

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Laser sell a tool for the job, not outrageously expensive, but needs some acquired technique to make it work properly.
Have a look on you tube and ebay, there are some easy to use tools readily available.

Roger.
 

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so i actually got mine off. heres a rough guide:
remove outer tie rod.
remove rubber boot thing
remove some skin from your knuckles
swear a little bit.
remove the anti roll bar (or just the mounts under the subframe as i did)
this will give you JUST enough room to get a plumbers pipe wrench on the stupid round nut thing. i mean it just barely fits and theres hardly room to crack it off, but it will come off.
mogreid, i live down on stord, if you need a hand with it let me know. i got the plumbers wrench thing from biltema, did the job and didnt break!
only the other side to do and then the tracking to set up (they charge about £300 here in norway to do the tracking!)
 

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Pretty much as above - its tight but possible.

Best advice would be for the very little extra cost you should replace the outer at the same time. Once the original is off the car you can roughly set up the new inner/outer combo to match its length.

That way you are only paying to have it tracked once as sods law would dictate the outers will go before long.
 

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You should have taken some measurements before starting so as to set the lengths to what you started with. If accurate then you should be OK. To double check you can measure the toe in using string. Car on flat ground wheels straight. Then at the front mid of the wheels inner rims make a white mark each side then with a mate on the other side holding his end tight to his mark stretch the string across to your mark and with it taut record the length of the string. Rotate the wheels half a turn so the mark is at the back and redo. Subtract the measurements and the difference is/should be the total toe in at that time with of course the front measurement being shorter as it is supposed to be toe in! If it is in limits for your car fine. If not adjust the rod/s till it is, using exactly the same technique. Crude but it works and better than paying £300. Then with correct tyre pressures at all times monitor the tyres tread for uneven wear i.e. scrubbing. At the first signs of any then take it to the stealers to do!
 

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You should have taken some measurements before starting so as to set the lengths to what you started with. If accurate then you should be OK. To double check you can measure the toe in using string. Car on flat ground wheels straight. Then at the front mid of the wheels inner rims make a white mark each side then with a mate on the other side holding his end tight to his mark stretch the string across to your mark and with it taut record the length of the string. Rotate the wheels half a turn so the mark is at the back and redo. Subtract the measurements and the difference is/should be the total toe in at that time with of course the front measurement being shorter as it is supposed to be toe in! If it is in limits for your car fine. If not adjust the rod/s till it is, using exactly the same technique. Crude but it works and better than paying £300. Then with correct tyre pressures at all times monitor the tyres tread for uneven wear i.e. scrubbing. At the first signs of any then take it to the stealers to do!
i got myself a straight edge and 2 identicle tape measures to do it myself....
 

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Changed one of my inner tie rod ends 2 yrs ago. Also thought special tool was needed but was told a heavy duty monkey wrench will get it off which i used although not alot of room i recall.

Remember to put loctite when putting new one on. These can be picked up as little as £10 on ebay. I should have replaced the 2 tie rod ends as the other side came up as an advisory on the last mot.


There are also good utube video's out there on changing them.

Someone else might point you in the direction of the rack but £600 seems alot
Did mine with a spanner for the rod, and a ring spanner on the rod end (the ring slotted over the stud and turning it).

I'd advise lashing it with WD40 or PlusGas and a blowtorch too, as they can be a bugger to get off due to seizing/corrosion
So neither of you used anything to hold the rack steady? I see one of the tools are made for that.
Pipe wrench and lots of effing and c**ting
 
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