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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
STEP BY STEP GUIDE ON PAGE2
LINK TO PAGE 2

Engine DV6TED4
Peugeot 307 SW SE 1.6 HDI 110 2007

I have a leaky injector (I have cleaned all that carbon build up from the image below)


I've done a lot of reading on how to remove the injector, clean it and replace copper washer at the bottom of it but I haven't found a video or step by step guide on how to do it. I have a haynes manual but it doesn't cover my engine, it only has 1.4 and 2.0 hdi in it.

I've seen other people saying that something is under high pressure and it's dangerous to attempt doing it if you don't know what your doing so that's why I want go get all the facts before I do it :)

On top of the injector you have the 2 pipes that go left and right, I've managed to take those off then there is a retaining clip on the neck bit, I've taken that off as well. How does that top come off?

Also had a look for copper washers and found PEUGEOT/CITROEN 1.6 HDI INJECTOR SEAL, WASHER & PROTECTOR | eBay should I buy this set instead of just the copper washers?

Any help would be appreciated! :D
 

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I just replaced two of mine. I had some black crud but not nearly as much as you. If you've got the retaining clip out, the top should just pull off, the clip is the only thing holding it in place. Be sure to put diesel on the o-ring before reinserting as I didn't and it destroyed the o-ring.

The injector will be quite stuck and need loosening, best to remove when very hot. What I did was to loosen the two hold down nuts and then hand tighten them till they just catch, then loosen them exactly two full turns. I then started the engine for a short while and went back and checked whether I needed two full turns to tighten them again. It did take two full turns, so the injector hadn't budged, so I tried again, this time taking it for a drive to give it a little turbo. They still hadn't moved, so I drove it with some really good boost, and finally they needed less than two full turns to retighten proving that they had broken loose.

At this point I used a slide hammer tool to pull them out, but now that you've loosened them it may be possible without this by twisting and pulling or levering somehow (after disconnecting the fuel line of course).

I'm no expert, but this worked for me, hope it helps. By the way, the slide hammer I used was a Sealey VS2049.

You will probably need that whole set as the white plastic ring has probably disintegrated
 

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What there talking about is the possibility of a high pressure leak of diesel, if you don't tighten up the unions correctly. Its all in the lettering tbh HDI, High pressure, Diesel injection. Very important to leave the system to depressize prior to undoing them. I soaked my injecters over night using plusgas, having surrounded the base of them with a string like sealant substance me dad gave me, which created a sort of well, I could inject the plusgas into. it worked, and a quick 90 degree turn and lift and they were out. Unsure if yours has them, but I replaced the injector protecters too.:)
 

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The system is pressurized via a mechanical pump, driven by the cambelt. As the engine turns, it pressurises the fuel rail which in turn feeds each injector. You need to leave it a while for the system to naturally pressure down (say for arguments sake 15 mins) before slowley undoing the union (best using a crows foot spanner and wrench, covering up with heavy duty rag). Wd"s ok, but as I said before try and make a liquid proof well around the base, else the stuff just runs off. A good tip is to always soak the buggers, as they can be tight, and there is a safe zone on the injecter, for the turn. ��
 

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There is no need to wait for de-pressure of injection system it always shuts down in a safe condition.

The engine ECU cuts fuel with engine running and monitors rail pressure then shut anti-shudder/doser valves as part of switch off process to ensure no residual fuel pressure.

This is why faulty fuel rail sensor often shows up as engine running on for a few seconds as the ECU cuts fuel and runs engine until it stops as it can't monitor rail pressure for safety
 

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Not sure if this is true or NOT but been told that you should remove one injector each time. If all injectors are removed at the same time, the injectors may need to be reprogrammed.

On these cars the injector numbering starts from the gearbox end. So the one that is closest to the gearbox would in fact be injector 1.

Hope it goes well. Let us know how you get on

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks to everyone for all your help! I have found this step by step guide and it's detailed:

"As stated earlier in the post, I'm no mechanic but I will show you how I removed my 4th Injector.

Ok, this is my engine with the black plastic cover removed.



1) Allen Key - remove bolts fastening down the Injector wiring loom. (not necessary but generates space for Injector to slide out)

2) Unclip Electric plugs. (Again, I unclipped the larger plug as well as Injector 4 Plug to gain more room)



3) 8mm Socket - remove Rocker Cover, 7 bolts in total.

4) Pliers - remove metal clip fastening fuel nipple.

5) Fingers - remove fuel nipple.



At this point, the Rocker Cover will be out of the way and the wiring loom will be loose and able to be "gently" pushed to one side.

6) 14mm spanner - unfasten nut on metal fuel pipe.

7) Allen/torx Key - remove the last two bolts.

Now your Injector will be loose and should slide out, if not, gently prise it out in an upward direction - there's nothing else holding it in.

Ok, now you should be able to remove the Injector with your fingers.

This is what it looks like.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
CONTIUNED AS I COULDN'T INSERT MORE THEN 4 IMAGES

With a torch, locate the old Injector Seal which will be at the bottom of the Injector Chamber. I used a torch and made a little hook out of wire to pull in out. (Seal A in the picture below).

With a soft dry cloth, give the Injector and Chamber a good clean out.

In the Picture below are the Injector Seals/Washer I purchased from my local Citroen Dealer.


8) Seal A can be lowered into the chamber, don't panic if you drop it into the chamber, just make sure it is flat before the Injector returns home.

9) Replace Plastic Washer B if the old one is damaged, this is located 2/3 up on the Injector.

10) I slid the Rubber Seal C onto my Injector rather than fastening it in
place on top of the chamber because it was much easier lining up the Injector when it went back in.

This is where your Seals and Washer go on the Injector!



Ok now reverse steps 1 - 7 to replace.

Take caution not to over tighten the two bolts (7) which fasten the Injector in place, I'm told they should be tightened to 5 nm. Plus make sure you tighten the bolts evenly, especially if you have slid the Rubber Seal C onto the Injector.

The biggest problem I encountered was re locating the Rocker Cover without kinking the rubber gasket. This took me a couple of goes to get it right.

Good luck and I hope this is of some use...

Stu, forgot to answer your questions mate.

Yeah I removed and replaced the Seal's because I could feel air discharging from Injector 4 (only) on idle. Seal A was worn out, Seal C had split and there was nothing wrong with the Plastic Washer B, but replaced it anyway.

Before I replaced the Seal's, my van's idle was rough for a minute or two on the first ignition and coughed out small amounts of blue smoke from the exhaust, this stopped when the new Seal's were fitted.

No I didn't re-pressurise my fuel rail, not sure if I should have done but didn't experience any issues in not doing so!

The main tell tale sign for me was the sound of short bursts of air discharging.

Regards,

John."

source: 1.6 hdi berlingo injector

I hope this thread get's a sticky :)
 

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Hi,just a quick ammendmant to your instructions on fitting the seal.The seal should be fitted before the injector and the inner lip of the seal should be over the outside edge of the injector tube not on the outside of the injector.
 
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