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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This car's pissing me off at the moment.

Before christmas it was running lovely with no problems at all, and as I like things to be as 'right' as possible, I put 4 new tyres on in a month ago, as it had nasty things on when I got it earlier last year, given it fresh oil, oil filter and air filter a few months back, new battery (as old one sounded like it was getting tired when starting), new drop links and new discs and pads last weekend.

I'm still not sure the MPG is as good as it should be, but that's another story.

So this week, it's decided to shake like a rabid dog. It's got the shakes at idle now something chronic. Is only ok once it's fully warmed up (like 15 mins driving or so).

It's had new top engine mount, new gearbox mount (the one under the battery) - just needs the rear one in that stupidly designed bracket to be replaced now.

It was literally shaking the entire car last night after I'd driven to the station (approx 2 miles away) and had it sat there idling whilst waiting for the missus.

Nothing showing on PP either, and the car seems to be driving ok. When it's cold, the engine seems a bit sluggish, but I never spank my cars until they've warmed up anyway, so it's hard to tell. The turbo seems to be operating ok - can't decide if there's slight lag or not, sometimes if seems like ther emight be, other times (usually when warmed up) there's no lag at all.

It was taking a little longer to start when we had the very cold, snowy and icy weather a few weeks ago, and when it fired up it'd puff a little bit of smoke (unburnt diesel from a slightly longer cranking, I am assuming?) that would dissipate immediately. Now teh temperature's gone up a little again, this morning (car showing approx 6 degrees) it started fine again, no puff of smoke or anything.

I've read lots of stuff about injectors. The car's only done 78k miles and that doesn't seem like fun at hundreds of pounds each, and if it is that, then I'll be seriously considering cutting my losses and get rid of the car to be honest, because it's not worth that much! I've already chucked some injector cleaner through the car about a month ago when I noticed the MPG seemed down a bit.

Glowplugs are another thing I've read about on here, but I'm a bit confused, as some threads say glowplugs aren't used in the UK ambient temperatures, whilst others say they're the cause of crap idle.

I can't seem to figure out how to get additional data on the engine running (such as injector data, I've seen posted about on here recently) - any ideas?

I'm not sure if the low engine running temp (about 70-75 degrees when warmed up), MPG and now the idle shaking are related.

If so, what are these eBay MAF's like? They seem very cheap which makes me sceptical. Although it might be a good way of seeing if my current one's fucked I guess.

Where is the coolant temperature sensor located, as I've heard this can cause poor running when the engine's cold?

The thermostat I think is working ok, as you can see the temp needle getting to 75 ish then drop to 70 (obviously when the thermostat opens).

Any other suggestions welcome.

Sorry for the long, and seemingly disjointed post, I'm just trying to collate as much information as possible on the issues and the car's behaviour, as planet's giving me no assistance whatsoever.

It's not stopping the car being driven, but it doesn't seem right that the engine looks like it's trying to rip itself off it's mounts.
 

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Camshaft sensor perhaps?

As for the MAF sensors, I found the £35 Ebay one to be fine. The first one I bought had the little plastic catch snap when I pressed on the electric plug.

But the seller refunded me and sent return postage.

I then bought from another seller and it saw me out several thousand miles without a hiccup and I believe is still going strong.

But this was an olf 51 plate 307 with 120K on the clock that was about to be changed.

When I needed a MAF on a newer car, I bought the genuine Pierburg one from Euro Car Parts and took advantage of their 30% offer at the time - making it around £79.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If the camshaft sensor was failing, this would show on planet, wouldn't it?

I assume with Peugeots, the ECU stores faults when they occur, so if there's an intermittent problem, the fault will be stored even if it's not "active" at the time of reading?

I have no faults showing on planet when I scanned it upon arrival at work this morning, hence the question.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I thought i went through all the options, but I couldnt' see it.

The only engine running data I coudl get was idel speed, pump speed, and some other bits. Nothing to do with injectors.

Just to add to the confusion and frustration, the car ran fine this morning.:confused::nono:

Do the ECU's in these cars take a little while to settle down after a battery disconnection, by any chance? I know on my 330, it'll run like a dog for a short while until all the ECU adaptation values settle down (fuelling/air/etc).
 

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Hi you just discribed my 307 xsi 2.0 petrol it does exactly the same the car shakes like mad when cold and only very very slightly when warmed up. I need it sorting did you sort it or does anyone know of what the problem is ?? It also doesnt pickup that well unless yku spank it like your at santa pod then it shifts.

Please help I like the car thats why I bought it but if it dont get sorted iam going bk to bmw the 1st peu ive have out of 70 cars and its by far the most annoying now.
 
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You are aware that Warranty Holdings announced that the most unreliable car they dealt with, as measured by average number of warranty claims per model, in 2012 was a...

BMW.

Your problems not in the 307 per se, but in buying aged cars that several drivers before you have already had the best of. If you don't want grief, or at least want someone else to worry about any grief, then buy a new car.

Running an older car then complaining when you get all the baggage that goes with it is laughable and childish.
 
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You are aware that Warranty Holdings announced that the most unreliable car they dealt with, as measured by average number of warranty claims per model, in 2012 was a...

BMW.

Your problems not in the 307 per se, but in buying aged cars that several drivers before you have already had the best of. If you don't want grief, or at least want someone else to worry about any grief, then buy a new car.

Running an older car then complaining when you get all the baggage that goes with it is laughable and childish.
Here here. They're not called BMtroubleu for no reason. :D

Sent from my GT-S5690
 

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Did you seriously write that ??

Did I not just say ive just bought the worst car ever but want to fix it and I come across the same problems and nobody knows whats causing the car to shake.

I still cant believe you guys wrote that

Slagging bmw off whats the point it looks silly and just for info ive had 17 beemers all fixable if ever a prob I get 1 pug and its riddled with stuff so be a sport and help me in my quest to make it better because I bought it because I liked it, not slagging off my other cars ive had just because no fu err knows how to fix these things.

Youve got to be 13 or so with that attitude.
 

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No disrespect Stevo, but on more than a few occasions we've had people sign up, almost demanding answers to their problems, and slagging off their new purchase and Peugeot in general just because they've bought something with problems.

Personally I've had three 307s, my first did almost 50,000 miles in two years and cost me a set of tyres, brakes and a quick fix (thanks to this forum) to the ABS sensors and heater resistor. Second 307, a company car with full Pug service history, was equally as good needing only a new clutch.

Then I go out and do diagnostics and see some really shitty heaps where the current or former owner can't be bothered to do the most basic of maintenance.

When looking for my second 307, I came across a 2007 model which had done 40,000 miles but looked ready for the scrap heap. The engine bay was full of leaves and moss, the soundproofing to the back of the car had been eaten away by mice and the pipes looked rotten, all because the owner who lived in a cottage in woodland, only lifted the bonnet every 12,000 miles for an oil change.
 
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