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Discussion Starter #1
Please ignore this if you are one of many who cant stand my very basic questions..

Im trying to replace rear brake discs but the torx screws which attach the disc to the caliper are very shredded and i cant get any grip or movement to undo them...

How else can i get the screws out bearing in mind its a tight spot...drill?

Any advice?
 

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why is the disc bolted to the caliper anyway?

Seriously tho... hammer a socket or bolt-out over/onto the head, or a slightly larger torx or allen into the recess. Beyond that, you're into grinders, saws, and drills...
 

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can you point to which bolt?? might give us more ideas, and apologies as i cant remember which brakes you have



or was it

 

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Pretty sure you mean the hub, not the caliper! No.70 on the picture yes? Just drill it out. It's only a placing screw. The wheel nuts do the actual work. Just makes getting the wheel on a bit trickier.
 

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A tip I regularly use with 'rounded out' Pozi or Phillips screws is place the end of a flat ended bar (the 'T' bar from a socket set or similar) on the screw head and hit it with a hammer.
This does 2 things; it closes up the 'splaying' of the srew head making the driver a tighter fit and it shocks the whole bolt and threads losening any rust etc.
It's got me out of trouble many times and may work with torx:)
 

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Pretty sure you mean the hub, not the caliper! No.70 on the picture yes? Just drill it out. It's only a placing screw. The wheel nuts do the actual work. Just makes getting the wheel on a bit trickier.
yep no. 70 would be my best guess and as you say drill the head off or if you had a sharp chisel try creating a lip and tap it round, wont take much until its loose then throw it away, or hacksaw a slot in it to use a flat bladed screwdriver next time
 

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My first thought was 70 but Joey says it it's a tight spot to drill and it's a torx, will have to see what he comes back with.
so it must be no.10 then. mole grips, stilsons etc maybe
 

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I agree, copious amounts of penetrating oil, sharp blow to head of bolt a good set of grips and lots of effort.
If Joey has a welder he could weld a bolt on the head of the torx a go that way as the torx bolts will need replacing anyway.
 
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Looking at the condition of the discs.... looks like a job well worth doing changing them :thumb:
 

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id say the best remedy for rounded screws is:

- a pair of really good gripped pliers/mole grips
- a hammer
- wd40
- brute strength
- a lot of swear words
- some blood left behind from when the screw gives in and bangs your hand on something...:thumb::lol:
 

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they dont need to be removed to replace discs joey.
just the caliper holder, then the 2 screws that you were on about earlier then the disc will just fall/tap off.
If you remove those 4 bolts thats the bearing carrier ( i Think) and that will then be stuck on the rear of the disc, again i assume
 

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Just done a rear disk and pad change. Removing the calliper cradle bolts was a bitch of a job for me. I ended up drilling out one side. Then I had a think, and used a hot air gun on the other side before trying to loosen. It softened the locking material in the threads and made the job a lot easier. When Peugeot want over £130 for the calliper cradle, drilling out isn't a great option but I was lucky and managed to get the bolt remains out.

Then my local dealer who had ordered a set of bolts, received a set of trim clips, I ended up going to an engineering firm and got some proper bolts to replace the torx ones. Not that I'm planning on doing this job again as long as I own the car.:)
 

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Ive just had a wheel bearing done on my 307 rear offside wheel.
The mechanic was a bit concerned about the state of Torx screws holding the Caliper arm on (No6).
The screws are (No10) in the diagram that hold the arm on.
Mine came off without much trouble but they looked well rusted.
 
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