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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Guide Created by AZ307

Disclaimer: This is a guide on how I have done mine, I have put this together to help fellow members this guide is not intended to be used as an official workshop manual. Please use the correct tools and follow all safety measures before attempting to carry out any work on your car. Please read this fully before starting work on your car, I will not accept responsibility if you end up breaking things or injuring yourself whilst following this guide. If you are unsure then please seek professional advice.

Tools needed:



Overalls – You will get dirty!
Latex gloves
Safety glasses
Dust mask
WD40 (other products also available lol)
Ramps / trolley jack & axle stands / tyre wedge
Set of spanners (10, 13, 14 & 17)
Set of deep sockets & ratchet (10, 13, 14 & 17)
Large flat screwdriver
Water hose / pressure washer
Air gun or heat gun
Drill & long 8mm masonry drill bit
Swear jar! (Good investment for funding future modifications lol)


This is the 1.6 hdi engine, as you can see my FAP is totally blocked as there is a lot of soot build up around the turbo as it’s blown back out.



Step 1
Drive the car on the ramps (guidance from a second person is recommended) ensure handbrake is on and left in gear or jack up the car and place the axle stands in correct position then lower and remove the jack DO NOT USE JUST THE TROLLEY JACK AS SUPPORT. Place the tyre wedge behind the rear tyre to help support roll back.



Remove the under tray. Try and store all the screws, nuts and bolts n on place this will stop you losing them. I have a magnetic tray, cost a couple of quid but worth every penny.

Step 2
Put on rubber gloves then remove the engine cover and turbo pipe work as highlighted. You will need 10mm spanner to undo the turbo outlet pipe.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Step 6
Once the FAP pipe is out undo the retainer clamp using a 13mm socket then lever open each lug (like you’re opening a paint tin).



Hint: before separating the 2 pieces make a mark on both halves so when putting them back you won’t be guessing what angle the go in!

Put your dust mask on then stand the pip upright, with one foot on the base pipe left the upper half. The pipe should easily split in 2 separate parts.



You can see that the CAT (upper) is ok but the dpf (lower) is blocked.

Step 7
To clean out the FAP/dpf I firstly poured lots of boiling water from the open end towards the pipe then reverse. Do this until you start to get black water flowing. Then I used a garden hose pipe to start to flush the soot. In my case it was bad so I used the pleasure washer to force water through.



Once you get clean (or cleanish) water coming through leave the filter to drain. I left mine for 30 mins then used a heat gun to blow hot air from the pipe section into the dpf. Be careful when doing this as you may damage the inside. Once dry I decide to drill 6 holes into the filter to prevent future blockages.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Step 8
Once dry re-clamp both pieces and follow the reverse steps to put everything back. Before closing the bonnet make sure all bolts are fully tightened and no tools are left in the engine bay. If you discover you have spare parts left over then you’ve missed out something! Retrace your steps to make sure ALL bolts/washers/spacers/nuts etc are back in their correct areas.

DPF removal only:
If you only want to remove the dpf section for i.e. gutting then you can do the following:



Remove the lower clamp and sensor pipe



Loosen the FAP clamp then lever open the lugs. Once the lugs are lose you should then be able to twist the dpf section out.
 
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