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Discussion Starter #1
This is specifically for 307s fitted with 288mm discs but generally most calipers work in the same way

My car is fitted with bosch calipers

Please note this is just a guide. working on brakes should only be undertaken by someone that knows what there doing. i cannot be held responsible for any issues that arise due to this guide

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First of all you need to make sure you have the right tools
- 19mm socket
- breaker bar
- 13mm socket and ratchet
- allen key and torques set
- brake cleaner.
- wire brush
- some old rags
- copper slip (if anti squeal brake paste is not avaliable)
- new locating screws for the discs (may not be needed)
- g clamp or rewind tools to push the calipers in. (if your strong enough you may not need these

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first of all using the 19mm socket and breaker bar gently loosen the front wheel bolts. make sure the handbrake is on tight

note wheel nut sizes are different on other models and you may need a locking nut tool if you have alloy wheels

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Jack up the car and support it on axle stands. i always leave the jack under the car. i also use wheel blocks on the rear wheels



Next undo the wheel nuts and put the wheel under the car as a safety measure in case the jack and axle stands fail

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Now you can see the disc and caliper



undo the 13mm bolts on the back of the caliper holding it to the hub


once done withdraw the caliper from the bracket. preferably tying it up to stop any pressure on the hose

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Now you need to remove the bracket which hold the pads in.


(If you are only changing the pads you can stop at this stage. take both pads out and change them applying anti squeal grease to the backs of the pads. you then need to push in the caliper piston and refit doing up the 13mm bolts)

The bracket is held on by 2 bolts at the back. these can be tight. a breaker bar comes in handy for this. in this case 2 19mm bolts

next withdraw the bracket away from the disc

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Now you must remove the locating screws for the discs. as you can see i have replaced mine which are allen keys. these are available from ebay.
The originals were torques screws


undo them and gently take the disc off the car.

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Clean up behind the discs with a wire brush getting any crap off.


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next fit the new disc using the locating screws.


get the caliper and push the piston in. use the wire brush to clean and crap put and spray the area with brake cleaner, use a rag to clean up any crap

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Next take out the sliders from the bracket. make sure they are all clean and apply a very small amount of copper slip and push them back in

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Take the bracket and withdraw the pads. fit new ones in the same way they come out. mine just slid in. applying anti squeal paste to the backs of the pads.



refit the bracket and tighten up the 2 19mm bolts


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Next refit the caliper making sure the piston is pushed in enough. also make sure the sliders are pushed in enough. then tighten the 2 13mm bolts to hold it into place




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Next refit the wheel. tighten the wheel as much as possible off the ground.

Take out axle stands and lower the car to the ground.

Tighten wheel nuts to 66lbft

Then move over to the other wheel and do exactly the same
 

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Good guide Monty, should help out a few members.

You're fortunate to have the 19mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on. Mine are Torx bolts.

Quite why PUG fitted Torx bolts I don't know but to anyone doing this you might want to check them beforehand.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i know there torques on the rear calipers on my car. they are at utter pain.

maybe its a good mod to do while your there. makes it so easy and theres enough room for a breaker bar if they get abit stuck
 

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Nice write up.

I'm doing mine tomorrow (was amazed to discover the car doesn't have brake pad wear sensors!!!), and was hoping it'd be straight forward - as I've only worked on my BMW's really, where it's all pretty straight forward.

Thanks for sharing:thumb:
 

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Good guide i would just add to open bleed nipple when pushing pistons back to allow excess brake fluid to escape.

Its safer then pushing old fluid backwards through ABS unit and stops the chance of the master cylinder seals inverting (very common on Vauxhall but can happen on any car).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good guide i would just add to open bleed nipple when pushing pistons back to allow excess brake fluid to escape.

Its safer then pushing old fluid backwards through ABS unit and stops the chance of the master cylinder seals inverting (very common on Vauxhall but can happen on any car).
thanks mate a good tip. i took mine apart to do this guide. i didnt actually change mine lol
 

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i know there torques on the rear calipers on my car. they are at utter pain.

maybe its a good mod to do while your there. makes it so easy and theres enough room for a breaker bar if they get abit stuck
I've just checked my bracket and they are also torques bolts, anyone know what size they are?

Cheers
 

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hi

when you said pushing the piston back,is there a certain tool u need or does a g clamp work on these to push it back.thanks
 

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Help - securing screw.. grrr

Hi,
Read this great guide and thought I can do this... failed... at removing the brake disc securing screws, these are torx horrible screws... now have rounded holes... can i buy the screws once I’ve drilled them out? Also do I need to remove the calliper off the hub , using those torx bolts at the back, with the calliper raised up can the disc be refitted? Lots of questions sorry...
 

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Yes you can get replacement bolts from many places inc dealer and ebay they are a std my countersunk bolt m6x15 if I remember correctly.

Dependent on disc diameter you may need to remove caliper assembly using the torx bolts (they are very tight and thread locked so you will need a good socket and breaker bar)

Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
 
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