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Discussion Starter #1
So, this is my first post here.

I just bought a 2006 407 1.6hdi sw, on the cheap, (€450) it's got a few problems, esp sensor, gearbox mount, etc, and the timing belt is due. The previous owner had the new belt and w/pump so he gave me those with it too.

My question is, how hard is it to change the belt? I'll usually have a whack off anything myself, within reason. In the past I've changed brakes, shocks, wheel bearings, wishbone etc on different cars.

I've been looking at the procedure on youtube for a few different cars and some look 'easy' while others look like a nightmare, removing engine mountings and jacking up the engine etc.

Is it worth giving it a go myself? Or am I better going to a mechanic? And any tips, if I do it myself, would be welcome..
 

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hi...plenty of guides on here about cam belts...follow any guide to the letter and all will be well..if in doubt ..farm it out..do it wrong and it can be catastrophic...good luck
ps change all the pulleys and water pump and the drive belt while youre there
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea, he gave me the new pulleys and a pump as well so I'll definitely change them too. I had a look through the forum but didn't come across any guides, I'll have another look though, now that I know they're there! :thumb:
 

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Main thing is to lock the cam(s) & crank before removing the belt and refitting. If there's a haynes manual for the 407 then it would help. I used haynes to help me replace the timing belts on a 1.6hdi 307 and a 1.4 petrol 207. It's a bit of a pig to do but can be done easily in a day.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Main thing is to lock the cam(s) & crank before removing the belt and refitting. If there's a haynes manual for the 407 then it would help. I used haynes to help me replace the timing belts on a 1.6hdi 307 and a 1.4 petrol 207. It's a bit of a pig to do but can be done easily in a day.
Yea, I'll definitely lock the cam, crank etc. I've seen people do it by marking the positions. Might try using drill bits or something, but I've heard of them falling out! Maybe both methods together might work. The lock-kits seem to be very expensive

ANY 1.6 hdi manual would do as the engine is almost the same in every vehicle its fitted to from peugeot to citroen ford volvo mazda etc :)
That's handy to know, thanks!
Been looking online for manuals but haven't found any yet. I just got in to Servicebox there now and I'm having a look around at their diagrams etc..
 

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There is a Haynes for the 407 Diesel, 1.6 og 2.0 HDi ones.

Should be all you need. I did it on my missus 308 1.6 HDi, and it was really not a problem. Just used a bit of extra time as it was the first time on the 1.6 HDi.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There is a Haynes for the 407 Diesel, 1.6 og 2.0 HDi ones.

Should be all you need. I did it on my missus 308 1.6 HDi, and it was really not a problem. Just used a bit of extra time as it was the first time on the 1.6 HDi.
Nice one. I think I've watched enough videos on different models to have a general feel for it now. Did you use/need a torque wrench?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I fitted the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner and all went well.

My biggest fear was getting the crankshaft pulley off without an airgun, but just locking the flywheel and used a homemade cheater bar. That was probably the easiest thing about the whole job!

I was a bit scared too about removing the engine mount, as I had only one jack but I just put a block of wood under the engine and lowered the car down on to it, and moved it up and down as needed.

Probably the most awkward thing (in my case) was that I didn't have a shallow 15 socket or spanner (my spanner set went from 14-17, lol) for the tensioner on the fanbelt. I think manufacturers put some things in awkward places on purpose! I ended up taking it off by removing the cs pulley, and forced it back on by manually rotating the cs. I have a new fanbelt and 15 spanner in the post. :)

I did screw up a little when putting in the locking pin for the fuel pump...
The Servicebox diagram I was using said the locking hole was at 12 o clock, but I don't think it was. I couldn't get anything in there when everything else was lined up. At that stage I was lazy and I had everything marked anyway, and the cs and wp were locked so I just went ahead and fitted the belt.

I Made sure everything was tensioned correctly. Then doubled checked the markings and done a few manual turns to make sure everything lined up.

Started first time.. :)
Quite happy I saved myself a few hundred euros..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Im talking about the fuel pump not the water pump.
So it's just the cam and the crank that need to be locked so then? I've never seen anyone NOT locking the fuel pump...

This is the diagram for the locking pin I was using, from Servicebox, using my cars VIN for identification. If it's not timed, then the tensioner should tighten the whole belt, except for the cam and crank, so it would make more sense not to lock it, right?

If that makes sense? :)

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Thats correct fuel pumps are no longer timed unlike older pre 2000 or so diesels with mechanical injection just like glowplugs are no longer essential car starts without them
 
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