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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
Driving along and my engine management light came on with 'catalyc convertor fault' on the dashboard followed by anti pollution fault.
The car is shuddery in first and idle. More so with my lights turned on.
Initial reaction indicates potentially a new battery needed? But then why would it shudder on idle (without lights on)

Gonna be going kwik fit tomorrow however


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Possibly battery, but could also be alternator, bad ground, dirty battery terminals causing fluctuating power supply to electrics, fuses etc
Check charging rate at battery with motor running and headlights off/on, should be in 13.8-14.4V.
Clean battery terminal connections and grease with copper based grease.
Remove and clean/grease ground connection between battery->body->engine.
Also have a check at the main fusebox in the engine bay,check for water/corrosion on all fuses.

The fluctuation in idling may not be related to any of the above though. If it remains after the electrical items are checked and ok, get the car scanned.
 

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Possibly battery, but could also be alternator, bad ground, dirty battery terminals causing fluctuating power supply to electrics, fuses etc

Check charging rate at battery with motor running and headlights off/on, should be in 13.8-14.4V.

Clean battery terminal connections and grease with copper based grease.

Remove and clean/grease ground connection between battery->body->engine.

Also have a check at the main fusebox in the engine bay,check for water/corrosion on all fuses.



The fluctuation in idling may not be related to any of the above though. If it remains after the electrical items are checked and ok, get the car scanned.


Wont have a clue how to check the battery charge rate.. also would it still need to be diagnostic in order to wipe the codes and reset them?


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you use a voltmeter or multimeter to check what voltage the alternator is outputting. You can buy a cheap multimeter from all sorts of places nowadays.

Some faults will self-clear immediately, some after a few trips, but some will need to be reset via PP2000/Diagbox.
 

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you use a voltmeter or multimeter to check what voltage the alternator is outputting. You can buy a cheap multimeter from all sorts of places nowadays.



Some faults will self-clear immediately, some after a few trips, but some will need to be reset via PP2000/Diagbox.

Thanks mate, completely lost *clueless me* just gonna take it kwik fit. Have a feeling the work needed will be more then the hassle worth it


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Well, ask them to check and confirm the charge rate from the alternator before removing your battery. When checking it, the voltage must be steady for any given load, any fluctuation would point to a fault in the alternator/bad ground/bad connection of leads to battery... if the charge rate is shown to be good, then remove and load test the battery.
 

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How old is the battery, chances are it's well beyond it's use by date. The battery can appear to be completely charged but still be knackered. I've just replaced mine on my 2011 308. Driving along quite happily when I suddenly got messages telling me a repair was needed and to stop. I got home and connected up Diagbox to be greeeted by a plethora of error codes. I knew the car wasn't as bad as the diagnostics was telling me. Whne it went into eco mode within 5 minutes and would barely turn the engine over resulting in totally flattening the battery I knew what the issue was. New battery and clear all the codes and it's been fine since.
 
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