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Discussion Starter #1
My Peugeot 307 1.6 HDi has recently started to hesitation on acceleration, I unplugged the MAF sensor and it ran fine with it disconnected so I decided to order a secondhand one off eBay to get it by for a couple of months until I can afford a new one but as soon as I plug it in, I get the same problem. I have since brought another one one eBay in case the one I brought before was also faulty and it's still the same and I'm now wondering if there could be someone else wrong with the car? I just find it strange that the car runs fine with the MAF unplugged?
 

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Im sure i have read on here somewhere that when you unplug the MAF the ECU disables the EGR valve and runs on default settings .Someone correct me if i am wrong.
So if it were me i would try and see if there is any codes stored using PP2000 and would be hoping to see some relating to the EGR :)
 

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Is it simply struggling to accelerate or is it more of a missed beat as in symptoms of a misfire because the symptoms make a big difference as to what part(s) may be causing it. EGR sticking in the wrong position during driving will cause such symptoms as the ECU is constantly monitoring and storing its positions and referencing them so if it sees things it doesnt recognise from previous data it will question it but wont usually throw up a fatal error. Im asking as I have had an EGR hesitating to fly-back on the spring so effectively sticking open too long, that in turn will show up on the ECU as out of step with the MAF and errors will show accordingly but it has never shown on the performance of the vehicle at the time. Mine was only sticking probably only for seconds but if it fails to open or sticks completely open permanently that could be a different ball game. I just cut my losses and got another and it seemed to cure the EGR/MAF error codes but the car ran just the same as it did before. MAF sensors tend to be more reliable than EGR s so Id suspect the latter.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes it seems more like a misfire and there are EGR error codes showing but I replaced the EGR valve with a new one a couple of months ago but the codes stayed and are still there. Do you think I could solve the problem by blanking off the EGR valve? Would the engine management light stay on? Thanks
 

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Dont go blanking the EGR off, its there for a reason and if its blanked off you need to reprogram the ECU to ignore it and, after going to all that trouble, it may get picked up in your next MOT as poor emissions. Its all a bit dodgy, and if found out, illegal. I think you would be best looking at the Crank sensor. You may have a suspect connection on the plug/socket. Wheel off, take the lower wheel-arch liner off and gain access to the crank pulley and you will see the sensor just bellow the pulley. take it out the sensor and give it a good clean. Make sure the seal on the plug is intact and then push the plug back home in the socket -making sure the seal goes right home well into the socket with the plug. If the plug is properly inserted its quite obvious, its solid with the socket. If there is any play between the two - and its barely noticeable, you will get bad triggers from the pick-up wheel on the pulley which will give symptoms of misfire and hesitation has the engine rocks on the mounts. The EGR errors exist but for seperate reasons. You main problem is probably nothing to do with it. Worth a try if nothing else..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dont go blanking the EGR off, its there for a reason and if its blanked off you need to reprogram the ECU to ignore it and, after going to all that trouble, it may get picked up in your next MOT as poor emissions. Its all a bit dodgy, and if found out, illegal. I think you would be best looking at the Crank sensor. You may have a suspect connection on the plug/socket. Wheel off, take the lower wheel-arch liner off and gain access to the crank pulley and you will see the sensor just bellow the pulley. take it out the sensor and give it a good clean. Make sure the seal on the plug is intact and then push the plug back home in the socket -making sure the seal goes right home well into the socket with the plug. If the plug is properly inserted its quite obvious, its solid with the socket. If there is any play between the two - and its barely noticeable, you will get bad triggers from the pick-up wheel on the pulley which will give symptoms of misfire and hesitation has the engine rocks on the mounts. The EGR errors exist but for seperate reasons. You main problem is probably nothing to do with it. Worth a try if nothing else..
Thanks will give that ago tomorrow and report back :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks will give that ago tomorrow and report back :)
So this evening I decided to give it ago, I took the wheel off with the lining and could get to the crank sensor really easy, however after pulling the wire out and undoing the bolt, I just couldn't manage to pull the sensor out. I got it free but something was stopping it from coming out. After about half an hour of trying different angles to get it out, I decided to drench it in WD40 while wiggling it in the hope that this might be enough to clean it. I will take it for a good run tomorrow and let you guys know if its any better, fingers crossed.
 

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You have to manouver it out so the sensor tip just clears around the plastic belt cover. Theres only mm of room at acertain angle but when you have got the knack its surprisingly straightforward.Main part of the exercise here is the cleaning and relocating bit, which you have done,so see how it goes now..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have been out in the car today and looks like its still playing up, I have had to disconnect the MAF again to stop it from feeling like its misfiring, any other ideas?
 

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As EGR and MAFF are so related and disconnecting the MAF sensor cures it I can only think that the EGR is still not working correctly and the ECU doesnt like it. There s not an aweful lot more that can cause those symptoms. You said you changed the EGR recently. Was it an OEM one(costing stupid money) or a cheap one from the internet because I have heard of quite a few people who have found those to work for only weeks or not work at all..
 

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Mechanic in a tin ?

Wynns EGR aerosol cleaner worth a try ?


I did ours and it worked
But I had it plugged into planet for codes / fault
and could operate egr with PP

Think it was £329 quid for new EGR 7 quid for aerosol. Aerosol won

Been no bother ever since

All depends how far choked or broken EGR is as it might not work
You may have caught it in time ?

Read instructions on tin

I have a spare inlet trunking when I did it
Mate drilled his. for straw applicator and then fitted self tapping screw to seal it

But some models you can remove a sensor I have been told and spray the stuff in

Easy with two to keep revs stable
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks guys for the ideas, I brought the EGR cheap from my local Car Spares branch and I have had parts not work from there before so it looks like I might have to try another new EGR :( I've also noticed that 1 of the injectors is leaking, could this have anything to do with the problem?
 

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Could you not just blank the EGR off as a test ?

Thin sheet plate template


If mine was banjaxed. thats the route I would have taken

But left the EGR in situ plugged in but just for show for mot time
and to keep the Maf sensor happy.
 

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Leaking injector is a separate and unrelated problem and nothing to do with your intake problem. Solve one thing at a time. How is it leaking..fuel from the top or combustion from the top of the head where the hold-down bracket is ? Fuel is obvious and the other is a black tar deposit around the injector/head. I would take that one out and clean it all before it starts to bake solid in the head - they sit deep inside and have a tendency to snap when pulled. If you warm the engine and pre treat with a fluid - I think I just used a wd40 type fluid - that soaks down the side of the injector and leave for a few hours they can be coaxed out without a puller in most cases.
 
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