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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys

Please could someone give me some clear advice on how many coolant bleed points and exactly where they are located. Ive searched so many posts but never got the full picture and its starting to make me ill ?.

The wife has a 207 1.4 petrol, TU 8v I think. I dont believe the previous owner heard about coolant and rust inhibitors. The expansion bottle was caked in rustly water and you could not see the level through the plastic. I have now cleaned the bottle with some Oxy power and elbow greese and its brand new looking. The only thing is if I dont change the coolant it will not take long to get dirty again and obviously it needs a change of coolant.

Heres the thing, ive read so many posts and checked out you tube but I cant seem to find a clear and helpful guide on how to change the coolant and bleed the system on a 1.4 207. I get the header tank business, but I get the impression from the Haynes manual that there are two bleed screws and gives a picture which does not fit in with my wifes car.

Please, please could some give me some advice about how to do it correctly and clear simple instructions on how many and the locations of each bleed screw/valve. Idiots guide preferred.
Sorry about the long story but just wanted to make it clear that I have researched this issue for hours, without joy.
Keith
 

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Not sure on the 207 but as a general rule of thumb for Peugeots there is a bleed screw on one of the 2 pipes going into the bulk head for the interior heater radiator, could quite probably look like a tyre valve cap, and there may be one on the RHS of the engine block where the thermostat housing is and temp sender unit there may be a small hex type bolt which needs to be undone too
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not sure on the 207 but as a general rule of thumb for Peugeots there is a bleed screw on one of the 2 pipes going into the bulk head for the interior heater radiator, could quite probably look like a tyre valve cap, and there may be one on the RHS of the engine block where the thermostat housing is and temp sender unit there may be a small hex type bolt which needs to be undone too
Hi John
Thanks so much much for the reply
I can see the one that goes into the bulk head and looks like a tyre valve. I can also see the other one you mention, the hex bolt. It looks like its accessed through a circular cut out in the air filter support braket, do you think thats the one youre referencing?
 

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To be totally honest you only need to open the heater pipe one keep the heater on hot and make sure its making heat.

Some engines are hard to bleed and suffer hotspots and airlocks these do not you will probably need to change the coolant a couple of times to get it clean again so you will get good at it.

Drain it refill it open bleed screw fill till water comes out bleeder then close it run engine with heater on full hot and filler cap off revving to force air out keep topping up once heater blows hot its bled.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi guys

Thanks again for your help and asstance on my issue.
Ive just drained, filled the motor back up with clean water, waited for the two bleed valves to run free of bubbles, tightened them back up, filled my header bottle to the max and ran it at a fast idle for what seemed like 25 minutes with heater on full. Fan kicked in twice just like Haynes said it should.
Just waiting for it to cool down before I start again with coolant and distilled water.
My only conern is the Haynes manual quotes 6 ltrs but it took a lot less. When I drained the 207, it was up on axle stands and i'm wondering if it held some back because it was raised?
Has anyone any ideas how much the cooling system should take and what is the ideal mix of coolant to distilled water 50/50?
Thanks again in advance of any help and assistance you guys can offer.
 

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I would be inclined to drain down then fill with 3 litres of coolant and top up with water. That way you are guaranteed to end up with at least 50% coolant mix if the capacity is 6 litres.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi again guys
All done now and filled up with coolant
/water etc. All running again. Thanks for everyones kind help and assistance.

I just need to resolve a "Side lamp faulty" error code and we are all sorted:)
 

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even if the sidelight is working, swap it. had the same myself with one of the bulbs, worked fine but kept getting warnings, guess the element in it was floating around.
 

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Hi stripe88

Ive already been down that route. I noticed that if you give the cluster a slight clout it would work for a second the turn off again. Ive been searching loads of posts and have settled for a fix I found from those nice guys on the 407 owners site.

http://www.407owners.com/docs/rearlightbulbsold.pdf

Looks like a bad earth but sounds logical. If i manage to pull it off, I will post my results on this thread.
Regards
Keith
 

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Sidelight fault is caused by a high resistance connection the BSI thinks the sidelight is blown but its not.

Check the connections are clean and tight also try a different type of bulb.

If you are using led sidelights this causes a low current draw and this can throw the bulb fail error up too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi stripe88

Ive already been down that route. I noticed that if you give the cluster a slight clout it would work for a second the turn off again. Ive been searching loads of posts and have settled for a fix I found from those nice guys on the 407 owners site.

http://www.407owners.com/docs/rearlightbulbsold.pdf

Looks like a bad earth but sounds logical. If i manage to pull it off, I will post my results on this thread.
Regards
Keith

So I finally did the fix and it worked and the " faulty side lamp" error code has now cleared. Initially the code was still present but side light would not work and I believe this was due to damaging the bulb by drilling the earth strip in the light cluster with bulbs still in the light plate (fool I am)
Once i replaced ALL bulbs with new ones just to be sure, code cleared.
If anyone is having this issue with the same error code and the have changed bulbs and connectors are not burned out or corroded and are tight. I would fully recomend visiting the link I posted above from the 407 owners club and try it out.
I took loads of photos of what I did so if anyone requests a step by step guide and its easy to do so, I will open a new post and attach them.
Thanks again guys for help and advice...
 
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