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Discussion Starter #1
Hello
Since yesterday i own a P407sw 1.6 hdi. 146k Exterior and interior are VERY good.
But our relationship didnt star well......

Driving home from London...Guess DPF failure, limp mode, check engine light the entire party.
I manage to get to a shell gas station. Half tank and 15 min later start te car..well no more message on the nav display and check engine light was gone.....( i want to remove and clean the dfp valve...any tutorials?). I menage to drive home in Blandford so it was quite a long ride. Only thing was between 1800 and 2200 rpm there are some hesitations....Fuel filter?EGR? Pipes?
But she got home

I will take photos so you guys can help me.....

The engine is a mess there was a problem with injector 4 ( it was replaced so i have a `new`one there but the engine is full of crude or some kind of black gunk.
there is a oil leak on the right side of the engine from top to bottom i need to clean it all so i can be sure (are there any common leaks on this cars?)

The red seal on the turbo is a goner i already bought one should be here on Saturday

So far its my adventure.....Another thing the car doesn't smoke at all maybe a bit under hard acceleration , if i had the chance to pull to 2500 3000 rpm.

The lcd in the cluster is not working...i wonder if it was turned off so we could not see the BAD things ....anything i can try to do so i can revive it?


This was a 300 pound car it was from a friend. I will post photos the car looks really good. roof works perfect. the glass boot door is a bit temperamental but ..any ideias?

Many Thanks.
Any ideas advice things to check and to do.
 

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People ALWAYS go straight to blame the DPF in most cases its not the DPF thats the cause its just a casualty.

DPF systems work fine if the system is maintained properly and the car is driven correctly

Your issues will more than likely be due to lack of maintainance in general with many possible things wrong not all need to cost a lot to fix it depends what route you decide to take.

Best thing to do is read LOTS of info on the forum this will give you an idea of some of the things to check/service.
 

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I'd also recommend to pick up a Lexia cable, and install Peugeot Planet (or Diagbox) on a laptop and get a diagnostic set up up and running. Especially if there's a lot of work to do.
Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PP2000-V48-Full-Chip-lexia3-Citroen-Peugeot-Diagnostic-Scanner-Diagbox-V7-83/301847423569?hash=item4647822a51:g:yLMAAOSwsYpaH36O

Or you could just pay £70 to the dealer every time you want to see what the errors are all about! :)
It was one of the best purchases I ever made. Same car as yours, and with a whole host of problems too.

In relation to the oil leak, I had this issue myself, because the intake manifold has two little plastic pins at the back, that the air filter housing sits on. Mine were broken off, and leaking oil from they holes left, so I picked up a new intake on eBay for about £30.

Limp mode and bad performance may very well be an EGR that's sticking open. Has this recently myself. Very hard to take off when exhaust gas is pouring into the intake, instead of fresh air.

Bodgit and Leggit has a video about changing a turbo on this engine, and he also takes off the DPF. It looks like a messy job, some bolts look very hard to get to.
I'd maybe start off giving the EGR a clean, or blocking it off.

With Peugeot Planet, mentioned above, you can get all the info you need to know if things are sticking, broken, intermittently working.. etc.
 

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Was it Aunty Pollution?
That's a generic message that's shown for dozens of different and unrelated reasons. You really need to get it onto the dealer diagnostics -- PeugeotPlanet2000 / Diagbox -- to find out what it's upset about. (Link in my signature to map of members who can do diagnostic for you.)

Indeed a lot of people assume that the EML means DPF and this is usually wrong.

While you're in the diagnostics you want to know the soot load in the DPF (percent), how much ash is in the DPF (grammes), and how much additive is left (millilitres).

A DPF regen is triggered when the soot counter reaches a certain threshold (65% in my 2.2, 70% in the 508 2.0 140 we had) (there is no sensor) but after a regen ash is left in the DPF and this eventually permenently blocks the DPF which must then be replaced.
Every time you add fuel the tank is dosed with additive. I have just had the low additive warning come up but Diagbox shows 700ml remaining so I'm not in a rush. (It seems to dose about 1ml per 10l fuel.)

If it's in limp mode then it won't rev over 3000rpm so I think that needs sorting before you can reliably say it's hesitant. Although 1800rpm rings a bell as the point at which the turbo becomes useful. Under/over boost or actuators reporting a position different to the requested position will cause EML+limp.

Frankly, needing a new turbo on a 1.6 isn't a big surpirse :p

Blank the EGR. Just do it.

On the instrument cluster: never heard of that before.
They're straightforward plug-and-play swap but note that the mileage after the swap will be the greater of the mileage on your car and the mileage on the car the clocks came from.
If you're replacing a 4-clock cluster with a 5-clock one then you may need Diagbox to tell the ECU to send the oil level data. Check carefully when shopping for a replacement because there are dozens of different clock combinations (petrol, diesel, auto, manual, and even different graduations on the speedo).

Good luck ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Hello and thanks you for the reply....
I have Diagbox and the obd cable is a VCI+A-BIT.
I haven't tried yet.
I am familiar with Volvo Vida (my other car).

When i was driving it went to limp mode. Then on the gps screen (that was another of my questions is about my lcd panel in the cluster is not working) appeared something like regenerating system faulty (i guess it was that) ....and the check engine light

Then i have noticed i was low on fuel. I menage to get to a gas station ( Shell) Put half tank and when i started the car the the message was gone, and no more engine light....
i dont know if there were any on the the lcd ( not working, i wonder how can i fix it).I dont want to replace anything the cluster i just want to fix the lcd..preferably not changing anything....So if i buy a new one.....it will say 000000 miles?

Then the car made more 74 miles and i got home. The only thing was between 1800 and 2000 rpm it kind of fail like a shutter.
And vibrating on first gear.

I checked my turbo and the shaft is ok, it doesn't smoke, and i if i press hard it will kick , i didn't because i was afraid it would get into limp mode.
But is a new system so i have a lot to learn , all help is appreciated.I really like this car
 

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Hello and thanks you for the reply....
I have Diagbox and the obd cable is a VCI+A-BIT.
I haven't tried yet.
I am familiar with Volvo Vida (my other car).

When i was driving it went to limp mode. Then on the gps screen (that was another of my questions is about my lcd panel in the cluster is not working) appeared something like regenerating system faulty (i guess it was that) ....and the check engine light

Then i have noticed i was low on fuel. I menage to get to a gas station ( Shell) Put half tank and when i started the car the the message was gone, and no more engine light....
i dont know if there were any on the the lcd ( not working, i wonder how can i fix it).I dont want to replace anything the cluster i just want to fix the lcd..preferably not changing anything....So if i buy a new one.....it will say 000000 miles?

Then the car made more 74 miles and i got home. The only thing was between 1800 and 2000 rpm it kind of fail like a shutter.
And vibrating on first gear.

I checked my turbo and the shaft is ok, it doesn't smoke, and i if i press hard it will kick , i didn't because i was afraid it would get into limp mode.
But is a new system so i have a lot to learn , all help is appreciated.I really like this car
I don't know much about the VCI+A-BIT, but from what I remember hearing others saying, you need the Lexia3 version of the cable for Peugeots and Citroens. Of course generic scan tools will work too, but I don't know how accurate they are. The Lexia is handy though, because it's made especially for these cars. Maybe someone knows a bit more detail on this?

A quick way to check if the EGR is stuck open and causing the stuttering, is to remove the EGR intake pipe, where it connects to the air intake manifold and temporarily plug the hole in the manifold to stop the recycled exhaust fumes getting back in.

It's at the rear left of the air intake manifold, and it's a hard silver corrugated pipe, just behind the fuel lines. You can just tape or screw a piece of plastic or cardboard over the hole in the manifold and see if the car runs better.
If so then just permanently block the EGR there, or at the EGR itself with a blanking plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Many Thanks.
But will the car fail on MOT if the egr is blank?

Why when on take of first gear there is a vibration? IS that engine mount, clutch??

Any ideas on the lcd?
 

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Car won't fail mot with egr blanked, mine havnt in last 12 years, which I've screen ?? The radio mfd or the mileage Mrs ??

Sent from my K013 using Tapatalk
 

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Many Thanks.
But will the car fail on MOT if the egr is blank?

Why when on take of first gear there is a vibration? IS that engine mount, clutch??

Any ideas on the lcd?
I don't think the blanking should affect the MOT, or give any warning lights, but stories from different people, and at different times, vary wildly on this.

For example, my egr is not working at the moment, and I had a check engine light on for weeks because of it, but I cleared the errors a few days ago and the check engine light is now gone, but I'm still getting a "risk of filter blocking" warning on the dash.

These warning lights seem to have a mind of their own.

What may, give a check engine light though, is if the egr is reporting that it's sticking. In my case, previously, my abs/esp stopped working because the egr was sticking, and the car couldn't calculate a torque reading for the esp system, so I always had an abs light on.

I think the general idea is to give the egr a clean, then blank it, if it's giving any trouble.

Which LCD do you have? is it the orange display, or the coloured one?
The orange ones are notorious for going dark when they get hot. Hot days, or heating on.
Usually in the evenings, or morning, they'll work, or if you're running cold air con for a while.
You can get replacements on eBay.
I wired a little fan in the back of mine last year, but results were not very noticable.

If you have the coloured LCD then I have no idea.. Maybe just broken.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for all your input.

I will clean the egr , since im cleaning the DPF. Do i need any special clamps or brackets? I sk because i saw the video of removing the egr from a Berlingo and it had clamps like the ones used on exhaust????

How to take the vacuum cable from the vacuum pump?

The lcd i dont know what kind it is...my car has NAV i dont know if that helps, is there any way for me to get that info for you guys?
If i buy a new one it will read the miles from the car right???

Many Thanks
 

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Thank you for all your input.

I will clean the egr , since im cleaning the DPF. Do i need any special clamps or brackets? I sk because i saw the video of removing the egr from a Berlingo and it had clamps like the ones used on exhaust????

How to take the vacuum cable from the vacuum pump?

The lcd i dont know what kind it is...my car has NAV i dont know if that helps, is there any way for me to get that info for you guys?
If i buy a new one it will read the miles from the car right???

Many Thanks
The EGR has just two bolts holding it to the engine, and one of those annoying exhaust clips. I've always had no problem using a combination of pliers, vice-grips and a flathead screwdriver to remove and replace these.

Generally, replacing the clip is, for me at least, a strange process. I usually end up gripping it with the vice-grips in different places, and then it's just suddenly clipped in place again. I think the inside edge of the vice-grips needs to push down on the part of the clip that clips underneath, to clip it back in again, if that makes sense. If not, it might make sense when you're replacing it!

Ah, sorry, LCD in the cluster! I thought (assumed!) you meant the radio\nav lcd.
Not sure about that, but on mine, it is not great. It seems to be a bit faded in places. Most likely the same materials that are used in the dodgy orange radio LCD.
Might be worth pulling it out and checking. Also, there's a little speaker under the steering wheel cover, if I remember correctly. Does this beep when you get errors? Mine sounded like a disco a few weeks when I had a bunch of errors.
If not then it could be an indication that the prev owner did some hacking.

Not sure if the mileage is stored here, or not, on these cars. I've heard of it being stored in the cluster on other cars though..

P.S.
There isn't any vacuum connections for the EGR. It's all electric. But the vacuum tubes in other places will just slide on and off.
The one up by the fuel filter, with a square box on it, which you might want to disconnect to remove the fuel filter housing to access the EGR, has two buttons on the sides alright..
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Im sorry i was talking about the vacuum line that goes from the vacuum pump to the brakes. mine dont have any buttons on the side. So far i didn't her any beeps either.
I was just outside to check in darkness if it was on but no its really out
 

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Im sorry i was talking about the vacuum line that goes from the vacuum pump to the brakes. mine dont have any buttons on the side. So far i didn't her any beeps either.
I was just outside to check in darkness if it was on but no its really out
Hmm.. Definitely a bit suspicious if you have a whole host of errors, but no beeping sounds! Might be worth checking the wiring to see if it's been disconnected or cut.

Yes, the vacuum connection, to the pump, just in front of the fuel filter, should have a button on each side. Might be hard to see them if it's dirty, maybe?

 

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Has this been diagnosed with diagbox/pp2k ?? If not that where I'd start.

Sent from my K013 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Hmm.. Definitely a bit suspicious if you have a whole host of errors, but no beeping sounds! Might be worth checking the wiring to see if it's been disconnected or cut.

Yes, the vacuum connection, to the pump, just in front of the fuel filter, should have a button on each side. Might be hard to see them if it's dirty, maybe?

Hello and ty mine is not like that.

Is it normal for the engines to be all wet in oil??

The mic is working because if you turn the car off and not remove the key its bleeps
 

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Hello and ty mine is not like that.

Is it normal for the engines to be all wet in oil??

The mic is working because if you turn the car off and not remove the key its bleeps
Ah right, someone must have replaced it then. I haven't seen this type of vacuum pipe before.

I'm not sure how "normal" this much oil is, but the reason is that the rocker cover "vents" into the air intake around here, so you can get some oil leakage. I'm not sure if mine is extra bad, maybe the seal is a little dodgy. It could do with a clean though. I think some people even build little "oil catchers" around here. It seems to be pretty normal to find oil pretty much everywhere around the air intakes in this engine. If you take off any of the turbo pipes you'll most likely find a little oil in them.

Oh so your speaker is working. Strange that you aren't getting beeps at startup for errors then. I'm not sure how the speaker is connected to everything though. It may be possible that it can get activated from several different places, and maybe it's disconnected only at one place. Like, behind the cluster. I'm just speculating here.
It's also possible that the previous owner had the ECU modded to turn off things such as the EGR and DPF. This was the case when I got my car, and I had an ABS/ESP light on for ages, but I couldn't track it down because the error was related to the EGR, and the EGR was turned off.
When I flashed the ECU with the original code I could see (and hear) a bunch or EGR related errors that were hidden before.

It can often be just one problem that can cause a bunch of other errors.

But, yea, when you go at the EGR you'll know if it has been blanked off or not (if not then just blank it off yourself anyway).

I recently had to replace the orange turbo seal myself on my car, I think the air intake there had popped off once or twice in the past which could have contributed to the oil around the area in my previous image.

Probably a good idea to pick up a Lexia cable anyway if you are thinking of doing any messing around with the car. It's good for all sorts of things. You'll probably need it to program a new cluster if you get one. And it'll save you a hell of a lot of trouble if you ever need to change an abs sensor.. Or reprogram a key, or a new injector, or do any of the Peugeot specific things..
I used it to update my ECU last year.
 

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You should check the diapragm in the valve cover too - they tend to fail and let oil through into the turbo intake (is there oil coming out your failed turbo inlet seal?) and then the oil is burnt with the ash ending up in the DPF.....

Does your model have a dual mass flywheel? The vibrations could be a failed DMF.
 

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How do i know if my car has a DMF?
Might be worth signing up for an account with Servicebox.
Service Box

Then you can just put in your VIN and get all the details about your car. Diagrams, spare parts, etc.. It's really handy.

It's all free, but there's also the option to buy tokens to buy detailed diagnostic info and instructions.

You may also be able to download the offline version, via a torrent, which has all the diagnostics and wiring diagrams etc.. but it's tough to get it all up and running, and it's about 30GB if I remember correctly.
 

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How do i know if my car has a DMF?
A quick check online for a clutch kit for a 1.6 HDi 407 SW comes up with notes like " check and replace the DMF if necessary" so it is likely that your car originally had a DMF.
But does it still have one? A lot of people don't want to pay for a new DMF so they put in single mass conversion kits.

So the only real way to check is to have a look and see what is there.
 
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