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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I have a Peugeot 307 HDi - 07 model - 119000 miles.

In January this year the passenger side headlamp bulb blew and I found it to be melted/corroded into the bulb connector and the fuse had blown. I cut the bulb connector off, stripped back the wires and attached them directly to the bulb (brown on the very bottom and yellow on the wider rim section) and replaced the fuse. I tried soldering them, but they kept coming off, so I resorted to using sellotape - a bit of a bodge I know, but the metal unit the bulb slots into holds the top wire in place and I hooked the other wire through the small hole in the base of the bulb, so they were pretty secure even without the tape).

This bulb then held out fine until about a month ago (beginning of October), where the same thing happened again - wires corroded and burnt where they came into contact with the bulb, however on this occasion the fuse had not blown.
I once again stripped back the wires, reattached them to the bulb and all was fine and dandy again.

Then 2 weeks later the driver's side bulb and connector suffered the same fate - both burnt out and corroded so the bulb no longer lit (although it had not actually blown on this occasion, but the fuse had).
I performed the usual procedure on this, replaced the fuse and then it worked again.
Then literally 3 days later, the passenger side one went again!

Anyone have any idea what causes this? It's getting a bit ridiculous as I know the driver side one is likely to go again next and it's a real fiddly task to keep stripping back the wires and trying to get them to stay attached to the bulb, especially now the wires are gradually getting shorter!
 

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I would suspect the earth connection on the loom which the headlamp circuit is connected to has started to corrode & that's why there is high resistance in the circuit & the bulb holders are burning out.

Find the earth connection, remove the bolt & check / clean the ring terminal connection before refitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would suspect the earth connection on the loom which the headlamp circuit is connected to has started to corrode & that's why there is high resistance in the circuit & the bulb holders are burning out.

Find the earth connection, remove the bolt & check / clean the ring terminal connection before refitting.
Thanks for the tip, it sounds like it would be good to try this before replacing the bulb holders. Can you tell me whereabouts I can find this earth connection? Would it involve taking out the whole headlamp unit to access?

I had a problem on the rear tail lights earlier this year (common fault with the earthing on them causing the indicators to flash fast/tail lights only work intermittently), however this earth was very easy to see and access without removing anything.
 

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There are a few on the car so just try cleaning them all as you find them in the engine bay etc. You might have to get underneath the car and maybe take out the battery and inlet intake pipes for access.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys, I'll have a check of all the wiring I can see to check for any dodgy connections, there's a chunk of wiring coming out of the fuse box under the bonnet (where the headlight fuses are), so hopefully it's somewhere easily accessible like that.

re. the "Common" wire - there is a brown and yellow cable going to each bulb holder, do you know which of these is the common one?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK I'm going to have an initial check over first and see if there is anything obviously wrong.

I have a multimeter but I've only ever used it to check the voltage of the battery, so unsure how to use it to check wires as you mention.

I'll let you know the results of the initial check.
 

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You switch it onto the resistance or ohms range and with the ignition off measure between each connector and battery negative. Or with the multimeter on Dec volts see which of the connectors on the bulb has 12v on it relative to battery minus.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Excellent, thanks.
So just to clarify - Red/positive multimeter pin on each of the 2 wires going to bulb and black/negative multimeter pin on the negative terminal on the battery?
If set to OHMS, I measure both and see which is the lowest.
If set to DC volts I measure both and see which has 12v and which doesn't.
 

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A late reply, as I have only just seen this on the weekly Trending Posts e-mail
Do as others have said & get new good quality bulb connectors with wiring included
If you don't have soldering kit, the following items might be useful (you will be able to get like products in your location)
Discover that I am not allowed to include links or images, which would have helped
Solder/heat-shrink splices - will give you good electrical & watertight joins, & you will need a (preferably) flameless heater to fit the splices on to your joined wiring
You can use a cheaper flame type butane heater if you are careful, but a flameless one will do a nicer job
You may also have (from your original description) burnt/pitted terminals on the bulbs (H1 Dipped H7 High Beam)
If so these will need to be cleaned up, or bulbs replaced if you can't achieve a good finish, as otherwise you will be back to square one after time
If the bulb glass surfaces have been handled, clean with metho & insert without touching glass - then attach the new connectors
When all back together, do the following test - with your multimeter set to VOLTS - either AUTO or DC & RANGE set to AUTO or 20V - engine OFF key OFF
With ALL headlamps on at the same time, connect the NEG lead of the meter to the NEG battery terminal & then in turn connect the POS lead of the meter to the NEG terminal on the connector on the back of each lamp
The readings you get are the respective voltage drops on the NEG side to ground from each of the bulbs
If you have 0.25-0.3V or less, your earths are good & you won't need to do any more



I would also suggest you get alternator checked for output voltage, (or look up "test alternator"on YT), as the root cause of your problem might be excess alternator DC voltage output, or some AC voltage component, either of which would cause the symptoms you have, & won't be doing your battery any favors either!

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@Bob
Thank you very much for this detailed advice, I shall check this over.
I have actually now got an issue with the battery (see this thread), I thought this worth mentioning as you mention the bulb problem could affect the battery - could they be related?

Thanks again
 

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Given your original & now current issues, I think, like tingel, that your root cause issue is a faulty alternator
If the alternator rectifier/s are failed, you may have AC output on top of diminished DC output, & that would explain multiple bulb failures etc
And, the failed rectifier/s allow the battery to discharge to earth through the alternator windings
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I've managed to get a couple of replacement bulb holders as in pics below and this product page (wires are different colour in the amazon pic) - does it matter which way round the wires are spliced to the wires on the car? The ones on the car are 1 brown and 1 yellow, the ones on the holder are 1 black and 1 blue.
When I've previously used tape to secure the wires to the bulb I have put brown wire on the base of the bulb (by the little hole) and the yellow on the circular section of the bulb.

87159
87160
 
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