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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
July 9

My car (2012, semi-auto., 65k mileage) recently starting showing gearbox, engine and ESP/ASR errors.

Sometimes, I got "Gearbox fault", sometimes "Engine fault" and sometimes both.

When one/both faults were present, the car acted normal.

Other times, I'll also get the 'ESP / ASR system faulty" message, and I lose access to ESP, cruise control and the speed limited.

After a while, the car did not act normal as I could press the accelerator after turning the car on and it would just rev, because the car did not select a gear.

The errors only appeared when I first turned the car on. This included stop/start at traffic lights etc. Turning it off and back on fixed it.

However, it then started also displaying the errors during driving, causing the car to 'drop to neutral' whilst driving, which meant pulling over (as I could no longer maintain speed / accelerate) and doing the same (turning off and on).

PP2000 shows:

  • P16A3 (Control unit)
  • U0073 (Intersystems CAN)
  • U1108 (Communications fault with the engine management ECU)
After looking into it, the garage I took it to a garage (not a dealership) who said it's likely two things:

  1. A clutch / dual mass flywheel / slave cylinder wear issue, which they said will cost £1,100 to fix
  2. An issue with the gearbox ECU, which they say is a Peugeot-only part and will cost £1,500 for the part alone
For them to further diagnose (and clarify) if it's option 1, they are quoting £85.

So far, there has been a £65 charge to get it to the above point.

I don't know how best to proceed.

Any thoughts?

July 9 (update)

I asked the garage to do a battery and alternator test.

They said the alternator was fine and that the battery has "a 50% charge capacity" and "is coming up as unserviceable".

July 10, had a new battery installed (£135). The old one was a 70Ah 760Ah battery but does not mention AGM or stop start anywhere. However, it appears to have worked fine for the three years since I bought the car second-hand.

July 11, I drove 68 miles, car fine
July 12, I drove 99 miles, car fine
July 13, I drove 1 mile, car fine
July 14, I drove 102 miles, car fine
July 15, I drove 58 miles, car fine
July 16, I did not drive.

For exactly a week after the battery change, the car seemed perfect.

July 17, I drove 31 miles to work. However, at lunch, I drove a mile to Tesco and on the way, I got the "Gearbox error" again whilst driving. The car performed normally, however. On the way back from Tesco, I had no error messages, the car performed normally. Also, there were no error codes in the ECU that I could find.

July 18, I drove 12 miles, car fine
July 19, I drove 2 miles, car fine
July 20, I drove 258 miles, car fine
July 21, I drove 32 miles, car fine. We also tested the earth connection to the engine block and body, just to make sure it's fine, and it was. We can also confirm the new battery that was installed is a Goliath Batteries stop start AGM 12v 70Ah 760A battery.

July 22, I got the dreaded "ESP / ASR system faulty" message appear (losing ESP, cruise control and speed limiter options), then 10 minutes later, "Gearbox fault" (meaning the next time I stopped (traffic lights), it wouldn't go into gear and I was left revving until I turned the car off and back on. Same error codes (P16A3 (Control unit), U0073 (Intersystems CAN) and U1108 (Communications fault with the engine management ECU)).

  • Do I take it to the original garage and get them to do the £85 clutch check?
  • Do I take it to an auto-electrician?
  • Do I just sod it off as broken on eBay? :lol:
  • Do I take it to the nearest dealership? (ignore this option, three nearest dealerships to me have a two-week wait for diagnostics and the fourth nearest is 25 miles away)
  • Something else?
Any suggestions?
 

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My car (2012, semi-auto., 65k mileage) recently starting showing gearbox and engine errors.

PP2000 shows:

  • P16A3 (Control unit)
  • U0073 (Intersystems CAN)
  • U1108 (Communications fault with the engine management ECU)
After looking into it, the garage I took it to said it's likely two things:

  1. A clutch / dual mass flywheel / slave cylinder wear issue, which they said will cost £1,100 to fix
  2. An issue with the gearbox ECU, which they say is a Peugeot-only part and will cost £1,500 for the part alone
For them to further diagnose (and clarify) if it's option 1, they are quoting £85.

So far, there has been no charge, I believe.

I don't know how best to proceed.

Any thoughts?
Your best bet would be to get a replacement gearbox from the scrapy's. To fix the existing one properly, you are looking at around £1500.

Have you been to an independent transmission specialist? if not then it would be best to invest on diagnostics with them as they can repair it for you much cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Your best bet would be to get a replacement gearbox from the scrapy's. To fix the existing one properly, you are looking at around £1500.

Have you been to an independent transmission specialist? if not then it would be best to invest on diagnostics with them as they can repair it for you much cheaper.
The thing is, all automatic gearboxes appear, to me, to break after 6-8 years or so.

The MK1 was around from 2007-2014. I could try to get a gearbox ECU from a 2013 or 2014 MK1 from the scrapyard but that'll probably break itself in a year or two and I'm back to square one :/
 

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How old is the car's battery? An old battery can bring up all kinds of faults on Peugeot's, it's been well documented on these forums.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
How old is the car's battery? An old battery can bring up all kinds of faults on Peugeot's, it's been well documented on these forums.
I'm not sure how old the battery is.

I've had the car just over 3 years and I haven't had it replaced in that time.

I guess potentially it hasn't been replaced since the car's birth in 2012?

EDIT: I asked the garage to do a battery and alternator test.

They said the alternator was fine and that the battery has "a 50% charge capacity" and "is coming up as unserviceable".

So I guess my temporary new questions to you guys, are:

  1. Is a 50% charge capacity too low? (and enough to cause the car to have spurious errors?)
  2. What would be showing as 'unserviceable'? I didn't ask them before I ended the call. Is it a machine that checks them?
 

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Your battery is most likely the real issue the ecus that control everything are very power hungry and are overloading the alternator because the battery is tired leading to voltage spikes and errors.

Change your battery FIRST before wasting money on parts that are actually fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Your battery is most likely the real issue the ecus that control everything are very power hungry and are overloading the alternator because the battery is tired leading to voltage spikes and errors.

Change your battery FIRST before wasting money on parts that are actually fine.
Someone told me that after the battery is changed, the car needs "hooking up to a computer to tell the smart alternator that the battery is new so it charges it more".

Is that true?

If so, I don't feel confident that the garage the car is currently stranded at would actually bother to do that unless they needed to.

What would happen if the battery was changed but a computer wasn't used to configure the car?
 

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Thats bull there is also the 3 minute rule but to be honest that really does not apply to newer cars

Open bonnet turn EVERYTHING off do not open close any doors etc wait 3 mins remove battery refit battery WAIT ANOTHER 3 MINS thats it your good to go only thing that may need reset are clock and window controls no computer needed !
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Had the car back two days after the battery swap and, so far, all is good.

Thank you all!

And to think, the garage wanted to replace my clutch / dual mass flywheel / slave cylinder or the gearbox ECU.

I hate all garages. Untrustworthy. Never a positive experience unless you're completely loaded.
 

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We are not ALL untrustworthy :)

The problem is most garages now tend to forget the basics and go straight to reading fault codes when the real issues can be far simpler i have seen people replace ecus etc when the real fault was a broken timing belt !
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi guys,

Since getting my car back on July 10 (after having the battery replaced), I have driven roughly 360 miles with no problems:

July 11, I drove 68 miles
July 12, I drove 99 miles
July 13, I drove 1 mile
July 14, I drove 102 miles
July 15, I drove 58 miles
July 16, I did not drive

July 17 (today), I drove 31 miles to work. However, at lunch an hour ago, I drove a mile to Tesco and on the way, I got the "Gearbox error" again whilst driving. The car performed normally. On the way back from Tesco, I had no errors, the car performed normally but I don't trust it after last time. Also, there were not error codes in the ECU that I could find.

If I take it back to that garage, it's likely they'll just suggest the same two fixes:

  1. A clutch / dual mass flywheel / slave cylinder wear issue, which they said will cost £1,100 to fix
  2. An issue with the gearbox ECU, which they say is a Peugeot-only part and will cost £1,500 for the part alone
Should I go back to them? What option should I ask them to do?

Should I just use a dealership? (they're very expensive and will charge £120 for the diagnostics alone)

Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I can confirm the new battery is a Goliant Batteries stop start AGM 12v 70Ah 760A battery.

July 18, I drove 12 miles
July 19, I drove 2 miles
July 20, I drove 258 miles
July 21, I drove 32 miles

However, today (July 22), I got the dreaded "ESP / ASR system faulty" message appear (losing ESP, cruise control and speed limiter options), then 10 minutes later, "Gearbox fault" (meaning the next time I stopped (traffic lights), it wouldn't go into gear and I was left revving until I turned the car off and back on.

We also tested the earth connection to the engine block and body yesterday, just to make sure it's fine, and it was.

  • Do I take it to the original garage and get them to do the £85 clutch check?
  • Do I take it to an auto-electrician?
  • Do I just sod it off as broken on eBay? :lol:
  • Do I take it to the nearest dealership?
  • Something else?
Any suggestions?
 
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