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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings all

My 2003 53 plate D9 406 HDI 110
Vin VF38ERHZF81623910

has been dead for a month now after cutting out and dying. Replaced crank sensor, tested the cam sensor, bashed the in tank fuel pump with a hammer which made it run for 10 seconds, replaced the pump, didnt start at all after that, replaced the engine fuse box so I am down to the high pressure pump or a corroded wire unless I have missed something. This and 406oc (I am pugnut on 406oc so if you have read my rants on this already, apologies)forums on this topic suggest wiring to be the most likely culprit but I cannot find a diagram that matches the wire numbers and colours. I am trying to narrow it down to the injection system and getting nowhere fast. Can anyone post me the correct wiring diagram for my vee-hicle? Thankyou most kindly in advance.
 

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I read your post on 406oc. Questions...

When cranking the motor with PP2000 running, are you getting cam/crank sync=yes?
Are you seeing cranking RPM > at least 250 rpm?
Is the ecu registering as being unlocked?

Without the above, it will NOT start.

As Reliable says, look under the carpet on driver's [rhs] side. Corrosion of the plugs there is a very common cause of starting/running issues [among others]. I have cut those plugs out and directly joined the wires with solder/heatshrink on a large number of 406's. Water gets to them and corrodes the wires and plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No cam/crank sync
0 rpm
0 bars pressure (anywhere).

I cranked a couple of times for a good few seconds and the values do not change.

Haven't a clue as to how I find out if the ECU is unlocked.

Also

wiring under carpet absolutely sopping! There is a 16 way connector that goes to the dash loom - several pins corroded, a ten pin connector with 3 wires in 6 wires out with two wires actually so corroded they were not even connected anymore (scotchlocked these) and two 2 pin connectors - all orange wires. Havent snipped the worst ones yet (its getting dark) but will temporary scotchlok them tomorrow.

Might I add the numbers on the wires in the footwell are mostly illegible, and those that aren't have a number that "does not exist" using the e manual tool. unlike the ones in the engine fusebox

As for the wiring - I am presuming I have a 2000 eec depoll engine? Anyone know how i would find out? Its definitely RHZ with a Dw10ATED engine but I am failing miserably to find any diagam with any similarity to the wiring that goes to the engine fusebox. And the diagram says its a 34 fuse unit but there are only 18 plus the six/eight(?) maxi fuses underneath.

I mean I think numbering all the wires is a great idea but the diagram and my car bear no relation to each other. I'd say maybe I am reaqding it upside down or something but for the fact that I am viewing the diagram on a computer. And I thought the Haynes diagrams were bad!!!

Also looking for the double injection relay. I know what one looks like but its location is a mystery - can't find it anywhere!

Still here? Sorry about the rant. All off me chest now. All help, hints, suggestions, encouragement or even insults very welcome.
 

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I have tried looking up your vin in servicebox but comes up as vehicle unknown.

Orange wires in 2 pin connectors are airbag/tensioner related.

When wires become corroded like yours, the wire often becomes corroded well up the plastic insulation sheath which will not give a good connection if joined. You need to clean the copper with a solder cleaning paste to ensure a proper connection. Wire colours are mostly risky to go by, unfortunately the only sure way to match wiring is by the numbers. I would cut the plugs out completely. They are only really there to split the loom to aid assembly in the factory. Solder them back together, scotchlocks are not a reliable way of joining wires together.

Until you have properly sorted the wiring under the carpet, it is pointless looking elsewhere. Get it done, then do the BEEP TEST. Only once you get the key recognised by the BSI/ECU will the car be likely to start. Once the key is recognised, the ecu will unlock when cranked and the cam/crank sync and rpm should show if the wiring/sensors to the cam/crank are good.
 

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To be honest even locked the ecu would show data if it has power so you need to do as above fix ALL broken wiring then get the key recognised there are no shortcuts i had 1 of these a few years ago peugeot dealer could not fix it as computer would not talk to it they reconed new ecu and BSI owner said no chance i had it a week sorted wiring under carpet earths under bonnet a few minor things here and there and it has run fine ever since that was probably 3 years ago !


Its ALWAYS wiring :)

Double relay is in beside the ecu on a 406
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Will. I tried the beep test - it does indeed beep. (Phew!! I have no pin code so that would have been a bit of a squeak obtaining one with the vin not recognised!) Thanks for the advice on corrosion, cant really do any soldering where it is at the moment as I would be working in the middle of the street with cars whizzing past inches from me bum. I will engage some push power and get it moved to my drive tomorrow and set about the bugger. Lets see uhh sixteen loom wires plus three plus two plus two is uhhh ... well that's my morning gone for sure. Another exciting episode tomorrow no doubt.
 

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Bin those scotchlocks too they are useless strip back the wires twist them and tape them i prefer not soldering as the wires tend to then break at end of soldered joint !
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The scotchloks were to hand and I had nothing to lose?. Besides, twenty odd scotchloks would have made the carpet look a bit lumpy. I must admit, the strip, twist and insulate method appeals on account of it being quicker than soldering.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Writing as I sit here in the dark in the pug, all plugs cut out and binned, wires all spliced to the best of my ability. Wires were mostly in good condition except for the ones connected to the bottom left hand pin of the 16 pin connector. Had to cut back maybe an inch and a half to expose non corroded wire. She still wont start. Ok lets fire up pp2000 shall we? Again we have 0rpm no cam/crank sync and 0 bar fuel pressure after a couple of sufficiently long crankings. After cranking I could hear
one of the relays that reside inside the engine fusebox buzzing constantly. I will trace which fuse it serves tomorrow. Its too dark now.

There is no double relay in with the ECU but there IS a short loom, separate to the ECU harness, which plugs into a 6 pin connector, which then loops back out into the main harness. I am guessing this is where the double relay used to be? Gawd knows where it is now. I cant find the bugger!.
 

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If i remember correctly the 6 pin connector is for auto models to do with inhibitor switch its not for the double relay.

If you have no readings from ecu then its not getting power OR earthed properly either 1 would affect it
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No power / no earth sounds reasonable to me (those seat well wires were well crusty though. Probably, nope, almost certainly saved me some future heartache). Further revelations: I have a Delphi engine fuse box (9650663880 BSM B5) only 18 fuses and three 16 pin multi sockets. The drawings I have been failing to interpret relate to a totally different unit, presumably for a pre 2003 car. Thank god for that I thought I was going mad!! I guess the e-manual I bought doesnt have the diagrams relevant to my car. I still have to put the DAM code (7934) in and select 406R but find the correct drawing I cannot. Oh well, looks like it will be mild tomorrow so... onwards and upwards. The net is surely closing on this epic struggle...
 

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I done a bit of digging around in my spares today yours is a D9 quite late model so does not have double relay fusebox feeds it directly i have a 2.2 coupe engine here complete as removed NO double relay i have a D8 model v6 complete it does have double relay.

As i said earlier the wiring on all multiplex peugeots is pretty much the same so if you can find a diagram for a 2 litre diesel with the 110 engine of correct age range pre 2005 then it will be close but seems to me your ecu is asleep as it has no power.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Many thanks Reliable, bugger all so far wiring wise but in the meantime, taking your advice about the basic wiring layout being much the same I looked up the codes for every single wire going into the ECU and there appear to be two 12V supplies and one earth. Only trouble is... I cant read the wire codes. So I probem 'em all. Key in, ignition on I should be getting two 12V feeds but... nada. Zippola. ECU is a Bosch ECM15C2, and I have found a pinout for it showing where the 12V feeds are and the earth. Darkness falls and so on to tomorrows jobs for the day. Going to provide direct 12V feeds to the appropriate pins and see what happens. Hopefully I wont blow the ECU up lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
FOUND IT!!!!!

loose earth to the damper housing. Bolt was tight with crud but not fully screwed in.

Gentlemen thank you all so very much for your help on this. It has thrown up about ten years worth of curve balls and if I have time I will link in a blow by blow account with photo's of my particular engine fusebox layout and how to diagnose this problem QUICKLY. I could have fixed this in 10 minutes if I had the right wiring diagram. Anyway, Reliable406, WillNZ I owe you a beer. One very happy pug owner :)
 
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