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Discussion Starter #1
As in the title, how do u set fuel pump inside. My pump was producing 300bars, dissembled it now it produces 3bars, so its somehow lined up originally to inject fuel in certain sequence (not electronically) Tried different settings and still no pressure. Opened it (no pic), there are two pistons that are pushed up and down by rotary `plate` My question is, how do you line up fuel pump ?

This is a pic from the net, I drew two lines to show you what can be moved in theory to line it up.
 

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tbh never took a pump apart but would imagine be fecked now it has been.

they cant even be reconditioned when they go outside the allowed working tolerance.
 

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I doubt it matters what position its in if its not producing 300 bar its not been put back together properly its 1 of these things that should not be dismantled !

It is simply a pump so its now not pumping so i guess its pumped :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for all replies :thumb:
In fact I only took top of it apart and nothing really can get "pumped" ... in theory. Ive tried to put it back today in any possible way and now I can clearly say .... you do not set timing or anything as it always sets itself in exactly the same way ... BUSTED. Took some pics today. Have a look.
Before, I have installed a pump back on the car, started it up and after 3sec it stalled, completely no reaction when I put my foot on the gas (I can smell petrol). Diagbox shows 0 errors. Fuel pressure only from the primary pump, 5bars.
I will give it a next go but I am lost at the moment, not sure if it actually is a fuel pump problem. In my opinion there is no way pump will generate 0bars, it sounds unbelievable, I would understand 10bars (when it needs 50bars) but no 0 !!!


Its Christmas thinking time :confused:
 

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By releasing the plunger pressure you have no doubt damaged something further in the pump these things are designed to tight tolerances and it does not take much to damage them.

This pump is simple in theory it works the same as an HDI diesel pump simply upping the pressure supplied to it further to whatever is required at the fuel rail i have seen HDI pumps supply 0 pressure so it is possible i personally would not have opened it unless i had a spare :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
No risk no fun. I promise u guys, I will sort it .... hopefully this year or next :)
I`ll measure everything inside the pump and make some judgement, someone assembled it on production line, why cant I do it ? It can be fixed .... somehow, for sure it cant get worse.

“Trust Me I’m An Engineer. Engineer, A person who solves problems that you did not know existed, using methods you do not understand”

Enjoy Christmas time ;)
 

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What i dont get is WHY you took it apart as you say it was making pressure to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have 2 pumps, one was working and second non-working pump (nearly new in fact) First opened new pump to spot any worrying signs, found none, so then I took my working pump :D opened it and :eek: before I actually opened my old pump, I have swapped solenoids first and everything went smoothly. I was planning to combine two fuel pumps into one as my old pump was ok but not perfect, first cold start in the morning and car was shaking for the first 10sec and then was OK. Current mileage 61000, so probably time to change pump anyway.

Before I buy new pump, Ill rescue this nearly new pump :nod: or at least I try.
 

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Being an engineer is fine as long as you have all that is necessary to get the job done.

Sure, someone assembled the pump but probably in a clean room and certainly with parts that had just been machined to be within the tolerances specified and likely with a number of special tools just for one purpose. Any slight damage caused when dismantling may well have taken something beyond the allowed tolerances and if so it won't matter how good you are at rebuilding it you won't get it to work.

Considering that you mentioned it wasn't 100% in the first place, the old adage 'If it aint broke - don't fix it' doesn't fully apply but now you are left with something that doesn't work at all rather than somethng that works but not as it should. I hope you get it sorted but if I was you then I'd be expecting to fork out for a working replacement while hoping to luck out and make one good one out of two bad ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Sorted, in fact took me two full days to figure it out. Studied BMW, VW etc. fuel pumps to discover whats hidden in it that nobody can see. Fuel pump after 60,000miles and 10miles have EXACTLY the same internal wear. Fuel pump does not wear out internally or externally. Any fuel pump disassembled and assembled will not fire up, no chance. Wear inside the pump of course exists but materials are really solid (ignore scratches) !!! Right now I know why fuel pumps in USA spec failed quicker than in EU.

It is precise piece of equipment but not to 0.00001mm of tolerance. Correct diameter of (2x) piston is 8.96mm (if I am right).

Construction is pretty simple, fuel coming in at 5bars, reaches first valve (piston compresses it) and then solenoid opens up and injects fuel into fuel rail and then passes to injectors. Cant be explained in easier way. :)

Two pumps are sorted and newer installed under the bonnet. Thank you for all the support.


Engineers do exist :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okey, so .... today I have dismantled fuel pump three times and every time fuel pump pumps fuel as it should. Fuel pressure is very nice and constant (measured). Just saved myself 200pounds + still have old working pump (works as good as new one).

Just to let you know, fuel pumps are faultless (they really are), they do not wear out !!! Okey they do but not after 10,000 or even 100,000 miles, more likely after 100,000+ may fail.
 

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"Just to let you know, fuel pumps are faultless (they really are)"

find that hard to believe when its not the internal parts that you have mentioned or pointed out on diagram that cause issue with the THP engine in the 207.

the part that goes is here....



you measure it here..


with a tool like this...


and if above 27mm the fuel pump is goosed.

you may get enough fuel pressure after 100k miles but once that part goes then it is throwing too much fuel in, brings up engine running too rich fault codes and depollution error message.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am not saying you are wrong, I do agree with what you have said. So far it works, I will measure depth if its within 27mm limit. Ive seen on German forum similar way of measuring it to test it. Let you know soon results. In fact I am planning to get old wasted pump and open it completely.
 

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this whole thread seems a bit of a contradiction. you took the pumps apart because they werent working properly, put them back together, claimed they never go wrong and now its all magically working?

something strange going on here
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Spent 2 days to figure out why it stopped working after being dismantled and assembled back together. Its not magic :)
 

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BUT your still not telling us HOW you fixed it :)
so in the last 6 days you have saved £200 that works out at £34 per day saved over how many hours :lol:As an engineer myself I am fairly good at Maths
 
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