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Discussion Starter #1
I have a peugeot 307 1.6hdi 9hz , engine starts fine, idles well for about 5 seconds and starts bucking then knocking really loud then stalls. Diagnostics are showing the engine starts at around 300bar then slowly rises and the engine cuts out at 1700bar!

I have a citroen c4 with the same engine but the exact opposite fault, too low pressure and it then stalls when it drops to 150bar.

So i swapped the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pressure sensor from the citroen and exactly the same happens, ive also flushed diesel and new fuel filter, not sure what was in there but it doesnt look or smell good, its red but i dont think its red diesel.

Fault codes are:
P1445 additive system, quantity of additive too high
P1351 pre postheating relay fault
P0088 Fuel rail system pressure too high
P0409 egr valve jammed juring programming
P1166 fuel pressure above limit value
P0490 egr valve stuck programming error
P1162 egr solenoid component blockded
P1639 supply relay open circuit.

Any help would really be appreciated as im about to give up on this car.
Thanks
 

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first of all what cod reader did you use
have you got any live data reads of fuel pressure when idling and reving

it could be a faulty pressure sensor on common rail or even just need a clean
it could be faulty wiring to the pressure sensor, i know on some models they have a yellow connector on the pressure sensor wiring to extend the wire and these corrode and cause problems
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I use delphi 150. And yeah it shows live fuel pressure actual and fuel pressure target. Target is around 300bar and within 20 seconds it just keeps climing upto 1700bar then the engine cuts off, im guessing its detecting the knocking.
I have tried another fuel pressure sensor to no luck. But i will have a look at that wire you mention. I have had a look at the loom but as with any loom its like finding a needle in a heystack.
 

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Its knocking BECAUSE of the pressure its cutting because of the pressure it cuts at 1500 bar.

Pressure regulation is done on the main pump the sensor on the rail is simply that it senses the pressure and sends the reading to the ecu either both pressure regulators are faulty or something is blocked stopping fuel returning to the tank allowing the pressure to climb.

On the 2 litres unplugging the regulator would result in a 40 bar reading not sure if this works on newer pumps but it was useful for a quick test.

You could try removing the return and fitting a pipe to a can and check return flow

Your other 1 only getting 150 bar is probably a bad injector.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Where is the other pressure regulater located? The one on the pump is fine and so is the pressure sensor on the end of the rail. Im confident the return is free flowing orelse the primer bulb would surely get solid? But i will take off the return as you suggest and try that to eliminate it.
Im happy to replace the pump but dont want to replace it to find that wasnt the issue.

Yeah ive not really started to fault find on the other car yet, but i do know there is a lot of air in the return pipe but as of yet found no leaks, i will do a leak off check on monday.
 

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Where is the other pressure regulater located? The one on the pump is fine and so is the pressure sensor on the end of the rail. Im confident the return is free flowing orelse the primer bulb would surely get solid? But i will take off the return as you suggest and try that to eliminate it.
Im happy to replace the pump but dont want to replace it to find that wasnt the issue.

Yeah ive not really started to fault find on the other car yet, but i do know there is a lot of air in the return pipe but as of yet found no leaks, i will do a leak off check on monday.
Hi!
I.m having the same problem, have you solved the issue?
Thank you!
 
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