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Discussion Starter #1
need to know how bigger job it is to replace front wheel bearings is it werth doing my self or just take it in to garage
 

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Not that difficult, I did mine with basic tools.

Just be careful of the magnetic disc on the inside of the bearing, if it gets slightly damaged then the ABS won't work.
 

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It`s quite easy to run into difficulties with this job..
You`ll need a way of removing the old outer bearing races from the hub. They are a *very* tight fit. For that you`ll need a close-fitting piece of steel tube or other suitable utensil as a tool to drift them out.
Getting the new bearing in will need some sort of press, although i did manage to do mine with a large sturdy vice - be careful to support the bearing appropriately as the inner race is a two-piece jobbie and it`s possible to damage it or ruin the ABS ring as alluded to above. Press in using the outer race only...
I fecked the first one up i did but knowing the pitfalls the second time i did it was straight-forward.
It`s a job that if you have the right tools is quite easy, but if you have to improvise it may test your patience as a lot of force is needed at some stages.

I had a whine from the front of the car for years that i assumed was the gearbox or diff. A rough wheel bearing was picked up on the last MOT - it`s surprising just how much noise a wheel bearing can make.
 

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Hi m8
remove the hub and take the hub and new bearing to a garage with a hydraulic
press, they will remove old bearing and replace the new one, should not cost you that much.

You save money doing all the dirty work, ive just done mine on a 308.
I removed the bearing myself, be prepared for a lot of swearing lol.

I need to do my front nearside bearing next, but i will be taking the hub to a garage.

hope this helps
 

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I can add a little tip to this problem.
I have a 6 inch Record vice which has served me well for over 40 years and has pressed in many bearings in all maner of mechanical devices. I have also used it to dismantle and reassemble Jacobs drill chucks which are kept in one piece simply because the parts are a bft fit.
The technique is very simple; as you keep a firm pull in the vice handle you bump the face of the vice slide with a large RUBBER mallet. This causes the vice to close up in a series of jerks but takes the strain of the screw and the body of the slide.
It must be a rubber mallet because most vices are made of cast iron which will not take kindly to a blow from a metal hammer.
If you do not understand the "bft" reference I should explain that the first word is "bloody. the last word is "tight" and propriety demands that I leave the rest to your imagination.

Reiver.
 

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I did mine and pressed them out and I ground down the old bearing to use as a correct drift for the last few mm's so it was home and centre

These are tight and bloody expensive. think Euro was 96 quid at time of replacement and I sourced them from a factor for 50 quid SNR ? type

You will know if its a bearing as it sound like an airplane taking off

When I broke a spring I bought a second hand leg for speed and it came with the hub for £26 delivered and it was like new so it all went on and now have a spare hub with as new bearing for one side just in case


Salute the people or have ago heroes that don't have the tools and improvise with big hammers. rubber or not and big quality bench vices

Nice start of bearing life ... never mind the ABS ring
 

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Discussion Starter #8
uk thanks all for the info on this looks like i am in for some fun loving memorys then hope fully will be taking a look the weekend and thanks all
 
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