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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

Is they any guides to replacing the front driver side brake pipe? Now I've never done anything like this before. Never even bled the brakes. So this is all new to me.

Seems strate forward enough (famous last words).
 

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I would put some cling film under the master cylinder cap then loosen the small nut connecting the metal pipe to the flexible pipe then the large nut that holds the pipe on the wing, lastly the nut on the flexible pipe to the caliper. Be GENTLE, if the nuts don't come undone spray some penetrating fluid and leave for a few mins. If still stubborn try tightening the nut a fraction then loosening. Once everything is loose quick as you can disconnect the pipe, screw the new one into the caliper and then the fixings on the wing, the torque reading for the nuts is very low only, 15Nm (1.5kg at the end of a metre long spanner) so don't go mad. I use a spot of locking fluid on the threads but this isn't really necessary.
Once everything is back in place carefully loosen the bleed nipple and attach a length of clear washer pipe. Open the master cylinder and remove the cling film, top it up. START THE ENGINE. Get your good lady to press the brake pedal and shout when its at the bottom of its travel, finger tighten the bleed screw, get her to let the pedal back up, open the bleed screw and repeat. Should only need about 6 pumps or so. Stop the engine top up the master cylinder and check the feel of the pedal, if it feels different from before try bleeding again. Hopefully it will be OK but sometimes pressure bleeding is needed to get the air out of the pipework.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Seems easy enough then really.
Thanks.

Has anyone els noticed the pipe wearing down by rubbing?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would put some cling film under the master cylinder cap then loosen the small nut connecting the metal pipe to the flexible pipe then the large nut that holds the pipe on the wing, lastly the nut on the flexible pipe to the caliper. Be GENTLE, if the nuts don't come undone spray some penetrating fluid and leave for a few mins. If still stubborn try tightening the nut a fraction then loosening. Once everything is loose quick as you can disconnect the pipe, screw the new one into the caliper and then the fixings on the wing, the torque reading for the nuts is very low only, 15Nm (1.5kg at the end of a metre long spanner) so don't go mad. I use a spot of locking fluid on the threads but this isn't really necessary.
Once everything is back in place carefully loosen the bleed nipple and attach a length of clear washer pipe. Open the master cylinder and remove the cling film, top it up. START THE ENGINE. Get your good lady to press the brake pedal and shout when its at the bottom of its travel, finger tighten the bleed screw, get her to let the pedal back up, open the bleed screw and repeat. Should only need about 6 pumps or so. Stop the engine top up the master cylinder and check the feel of the pedal, if it feels different from before try bleeding again. Hopefully it will be OK but sometimes pressure bleeding is needed to get the air out of the pipework.

What's the cling film for?
 

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Cling film is to limit fluid draining out of reservoir, there is a breather in the cap. Something is wrong if the pipe is wearing, it shouldn't touch anything when the steering is turned from lock to lock, is the large rubber washer present that clips the flexible pipe into the hub carrier? Have a look at the pipe on the other side or the same car in a car park.
 

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Seems easy enough then really.
Thanks.
Famous Last words:lol:
Has anyone els noticed the pipe wearing down by rubbing?
Yep my first 407 had a front rubber pipe that was worn down slightly by rubbing, it got wrote off before i fixed it tho :rolleyes:
Again a picture tells us how bad the rubbing is. Also how long till Mot ??
 

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That needs changing ASAP. Maybe call into a local garage (not dealers) and ask how much to change it, if its under £30i would get them to do it as there is potential for problems, bleed nipple seized (spray it now anyway) one end of pipe not undoing (spray both ends now), then you've got to buy the pipe and the brake fluid, have you got decent spanners/socket set as the bleed nipple can cause hours of fun :)nono:) if it snaps, and being as its your braking system and you say you've never bled brakes before safety needs to be considered. If all goes to plan it is an easy job BUT if it doesnt its a knightmare and your cars off the road until you get someone round to sort it.

Psst i'm not trying to put you off,just make you aware of potential problems. Youtube must have lots of videos of bleeding brakes, have a look at some and see how you feel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i phoned around today the cheapest was £85 plus vat.

So what size spanners is needed for the job. Does any one know? I'm going to buy so good quality ones to do the job with.
 

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ouch, do it yourself. How is your toolkit?? because for not that much more than the cost of the garage doing that pipe you could buy a Halfords professional socket set, that would have most of the tools you would ever need for home use. Assuming your planning on doing any jobs on cars from now on, i would add this set

Halfords | Halfords Advanced Professional 170 Piece Socket & Ratchet Spanner Set

to your birthday/xmas list. I have a similar one, 407xjr has one and so does 106steve, cant fault them for home use.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've got a snap on socket set. Gt giving to me a long time ago. Just spanners I need, well good news anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
And so it continues.


While Im waiting for the new brake hose I thought I might as well change the oil. Well the my car has other ideas. The sump nut will not move at all, even took it local garage, they couldn't move it either, have to take it back tomorrow, they are going to chisel it of and renew the nut. The joys of cars.
 
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