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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
DIY - or not ?

It's a 206 1,1i Petrol 1999.

Pipe in front of CAT has blown, but the downpipe looks ropey - so beter replace that too. Back end was done at the start of the year, but fingers crossed - cat is ok.

Problem that I can see looming is the 3 nuts from the exhaust manifold are just round blobs of rust. I've found out replacements should be M8 - but the one at the back is pretty inacessible.
Plus the lower mounting bolt sems a bit awkward too on the downpipe.

I have the bits to replace them - but how to get the old rust-blobs off ?
Am I supposed to use silicone in front of the cat ? How does that hold up to temps?

Any advice would be handy.
Thanks.
 
G

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Hi

You spotted the trouble already... its these nice crusty bolts on the manifold...

They are always tricky on any car, and uusally need heat and if that fails, some stud extractors when they break.

If they do break and you still cannot get into them, you can sometimes weld a nut over the top of them and use that to get them out. Getting access in to do the job is a typical hassle.

To be honest, unless you have a ramp and heat, I would entrust the job to a local fitter or local garage. You may be able to buy the bits and pay for their time if you want to try and save cash.

The last thing you need is to be suck half way through the job... and have no car to drive around in.

D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fixed !:nod:

New parts orderd from Yescarparts - Front pipe and second pipe + fixings (springs gaskets) delivered to my door for £32.78 - Compared to £90 + VAT for just the frontpipe that I would need to collect from Peugeot.

The Exhaust manifold nuts are long and copper plated - which will help next time. The new ones are 13mm AF - but to remove the old ones I used a 12 and 11mm deep socket hammered on. For the price of a new socket - I decided it was worth it. As it was - the sockets survived. Use a 6 point socket if you try this folks!
Also - was soaked for 2 days in WD40, and the nuts smacked sideways with a long punch - to break the rust seal. Just gave them enough turn with the socket to move, then tighten, then undo, then tighten - stopping each time resistance was felt - Worked a treat !
Used High temperature anti-sieze coating on assembly again - PBC - http://www.kspaul.de/TDB-engl/MP-PBC-engl.pdf
It's good up to 1200 degrees !:cool:
 
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