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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Been having various issues with my car, its a 2004 307 xsi hdi.

The car jerks can sometimes be bad on low revs under 2000.

I have changed the MAF sensor and this did appear to help at first, the jerking is not as bad but getting worse ands still there.

I have managed to use diagbox and got the following faults:

P0098 - inlet air temperature signal (air inlet manifold) info as follows
Pwemanent fault - short circuit to positive or circuit open
not sure what other info is important

P1351 - Pre post heating relay circuit
permenant fault - plugs never supplied

Can anyone help me or point me in the right direction - any help will be much appreicated?

thanks
 

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Have a look at this sound like its just an air sensor that needs changing/cleaning
http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/407-41/fault-code-p0098-17356/
Let us know when you change it if it clears the fault :thumb:

The other code is either the glow plugs that need changing (a pain in the arse to do) or the relay has packed up (easy to do)
If you look in diagbox you can test the relay and you should hear it click.
 

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My 307 has the P1351 fault (permanent) and I've never noticed it cause a problem, even when the temperature has dropped below freezing. As rbaz said, the glow plugs are a pain to change as they're located towards the back of the engine - according to the Hayne's manual you need to take off a fair few bits of trim to get to them, and if any of the plugs break as you're taking them out... £££s. At the moment it's at the bottom of my to-do list :)

EDIT: I should mention that this is on the 1.6 HDI. Plugs may be in a different place on other engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi,

Thank you for your replies.

I have ordered 4 new glow plugs and also the new sensor (all from Europarts) and are collecting both today..

The sensor is a 30 second job, but i am a little concerned about the glow plugs reading all the info on here about snapping etc.

Can any one offer advice on the best way to do it?

Intresting about the relay - new to diagbox so will try and find this.

Really hope i can sort the problem.
 

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Just change the temp sensor reset the code and I bet your problems are cured. I have been getting the P1351 code too and my car runs fine even started at -7 no problem (apart from the handbrake cables had frozen on lol)
I cant remember where the test was for the relay just have a good look through Diagbox tests you should find it.
Let us know how you get on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi thank you for your reply.

If I leave the spark plugs will I not still have the faukt code and engine management light on?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi,

Once again thanks for the reply.

The car is a 2004, 307 XSI HDI. Not sure if it electric or not.

Okay, thanks for the info:

So if i locate the egr and just unplug the electric sensor and then drive, if it drives with out the stutter the EGR is faulty and needs replaced?

Can this be cleaned? Is it easy to get to?

Thanks for your help as ever.

Terry
 

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Hi thank you for your reply.

If I leave the spark plugs will I not still have the faukt code and engine management light on?
It should go out if the sensor clears the P0098 code mine isn't on and I have the P1351 code in diagbox.
Betty do you know if an an EGR fault can cause the P0098 code?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok Great - The sensor is faulty as it is broke to even look at.

I will change this tonight before i attempt the glow plugs and see what happens with the fault codes and message.

Thanks for your help.
 

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Its worth cleaning up the heater relay. Its attached to the front of the engine fuse box. It has a very handy cover over the top, but all the bottom contacts are exposed to incoming damp and dirt.

Dismantling and cleaning will take nothing but half hour of your time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi Gibbo,

Thank you for your message.

The fuse box near the battery we are talking about?

I will have a look at this tonight, the cover is broke so somethings can get in.

I dont mind trying anything that takes time only.

Thanks

Terry
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Quick Update.

I didnt really get to far with any of this.

The sesnor did not arrive at Euro parts and is now due today.

By the time i finished work and got home i removed the engine covers etc. It was getting on to 6.30 - I new it would get dark at 7.30 so didnt wanna go to far.

TBH i couldnt find what i needed to remove to get to the glow plugs... I have two pictures but i dont know how to add to the thread?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Quick update.

The sensor arrived yesterday. I deleted the error code and fitted the sensor... Done a few miles, engine on and off a few times. No engine managment light or no anti pollution fault - Also no error messages on diagbox apart from the one regarding the glow plugs.

I have the plugs to change but i am struggerling to know what to do. Is their a step by step guide anywhere . Its 04 136bhp diesel engine. - Even a picture to just show me where the glow plugs are and i can work from there. Thanks

The car is running much better with this sensor but their is still a slight hesitation so i must still have a problem?

EGR valve earlier suggested?
 

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Try disconnecting the MAF sensor and giving it a drive (you'll get an anti-pollution fault but just ignore it). If the hesitation stops you might want to consider putting a blanking plate on the EGR valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi Gibbo,

Thanks for the reply.

I will try this tonight. I have recently replaced the MAF sensor, this also did help and improved alot from the other but is still not perfect.

So by disconnecting it, this will show if the EGR is working or not?

Is it better to blank it of or buy a new egr?
 

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I think new EGR valves are around £120+, whereas a blanking plate is less than £5. It's up to you, but I'd say that EGR valves in their current form cause more problems than they solve. I actually bought a blanking plate for mine 6 months ago and just haven't got around to fitting it yet (the valve is unplugged and stays shut).

If you disconnect the wiring plug from your EGR, and as a result the car performs better, then your EGR is not working properly. It's common for them to get caked in carbon deposits, which can cause all sorts of problems with the valve (if I recall correctly, the valve is meant to be closed at low revs, and at high revs - if this doesn't happen, then you get weird performance).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok - Thanks for your reply.

Will try this at the weekend.

How do i know that it will be closed as i disconnect it?

Terry
 
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