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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone
I really need some help please

I own a Pug expert DW10UTED4 TURBO DIESEL

Since last year the brakes have slowly degraded. Current status is as follows:

Engine off = hard brake pedal, brakes work like they normally do when engine is off and pads retract.

Engine on = pedal goes to the floor and brakes stick on. Releasing the pedal it rises up slowly and brakes rarely unstick and not much braking when you apply brakes.

Whats been done so far and tried:

New rubber pipes to the calipers
Calipers off, cleaned up, greased up including taking the pistons apart
Pads and discs cleaned up
New master cylinder from main dealer
Bled the air out on each caliper
No fluid leaks, no crushed or blown pipes
Handbrake operates as normal i.e as it should.

As a test i disconnected the vacuum pump which makes the brake pedal hard as if the engine was off but reconnected it.

Sadly problem still remains, sticky brakes, pedal to the floor with slow return and not much braking when you apply brakes. All the brakes stick but more so the front brakes.

Vacuum pump? brake servo? Anyone know what the problem is?

Any and all help appreciated.
 

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Sounds like you have 2 issues the non return and sticking brakes is caused by the pivot BEHIND the servo seizing you need to free this then the pedal will return properly and the brakes will not stick common issue on E7 as the heat dries it out.

The pedal going soft may be a faulty servo are you loosing fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ive ordered new servo and vacuum pipe from main dealer. I could not find a patent part.

4535 X2 brake servo
4536 16 servo gasket
4578 E8 vac hose
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update on this.

Its had the following:
New brake hoses to the front callipers
callipers stripped and cleaned, now moving freely
new brake cylinder
new servo
new vaccum pipe
brake pivots and cross bar greased, moving freely
new brake fluid
system been bled from each calliper starting from the furthest one, done twice
clutch has been bled
Discs have had the edging burrs taken off

Notes:
No abs warning light
pads still have meat on them, not worn out
All pipes inspected, none blown, collapsed or leaking.
Vacuum pump sucks and we took the side cover off and it appears to be intact. Does the vacuum pump usually have engine oil in?

Pedal has travel and is spongey. Its like the fluid get pushed through to the brakes but has trouble coming back making the brakes stick. When the engine is running brake pedal goes to the floor.

Any help appreciated :)
 

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Clamp the brake hoses then try the brakes with engine running if they are still the same then its air trapped in the abs unit.

Obviously don't drive with the hoses clamped !!

Have you checked the rear calipers are not leaking
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Clamp the brake hoses then try the brakes with engine running if they are still the same then its air trapped in the abs unit.

Obviously don't drive with the hoses clamped !!

Have you checked the rear calipers are not leaking
Will give it a try. Do you think it would matter about the order in which the brakes were bled? We done the rears first and ive just found this bit of info:

*. Precautions to be taken before bleeding a brake circuit
Vehicles fitted with ABS or ESP have a system consisting of 2 brake circuits :

The primary brake circuit which is the main circuit pressurised directly by the brake pedal
The secondary brake circuit inside the hydraulic block

This braking system must be bled in 2 stages.
Following work on the master cylinder or the abs unit , bleed in sequence :

The front left-hand wheel
The front right wheel
The left hand rear wheel
The right hand rear wheel

Following work on a caliper or a wheel cylinder, bleed in the following order :

With the caliper or the wheel cylinder removed
The front left-hand wheel
The front right wheel
The left hand rear wheel
The right hand rear wheel
 

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Discussion Starter #15
SORTED !!
Sent it into main dealer, problems were faulty master cylinder and pivots not greased quite enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Told you the pivot caused it you need to dismantle everything and grease it properly !!
Not me who done the work. Original master cylinder (pulled air in) and servo was faulty (hissed badly) followed by faulty master cylinder and it was greased but not enough.
 

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A nasty little problem with these brakes is that if , when changing pads for example , the caliper pistons are pushed back the seals in the master cylinder turn inside out. This causes the brakes to stick on as the pads can't retract. Would recommend to always crack open the bleed screw with a hose and bleed bottle attatched before pushing back the pistons.
If this is the problem then only safe solution is to fit a new master cylinder observing the bleed screw precaution.
 
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