Peugeot Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I thought the exhaust clamp was the cause of an exhaust leak next to the turbo heading to the DPF on my 407 1.6HDI so got a new clamp installed. Unfortunately the leak is still there with a load of soot between the heat sheild and clamp area and also on the turbo itself. I see a load of sooty exhaust come up from the opening of the heatshield at the front of the engine to the point where it is entering the cabin when fresh air vent is on. The guy that fitted the clamp seems to think that the turbo is at fault.

What I would like to know is whether it's likely for a turbo to go by leaking exhaust fumes between it's constituent parts, or is it more to be simply a seal issue on the turbo? The turbo itself works fine with very little lag on acceleration. The car has done 167K miles.

Thanks.
 
D

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Its leaking because whoever removed the particle filter previous didn't it correctly. The particle filter lower mounting nuts are to be loosened off to tighten the top clamp up correctly. Now whoever fitted the new clamp fitted it incorectly again because of laziness.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi David, thanks for the reply.

Its leaking because whoever removed the particle filter previous didn't it correctly. The particle filter lower mounting nuts are to be loosened off to tighten the top clamp up correctly.
The lower mounting bolt is attached to a large clamp that wraps around the DPF, is this the one you mean? It doesn't look like that was touched when fitting the small clamp up at the top (from turbo to DPF pipe).

I can see some white residue around the clamp that was fitted, is this like a mastic sealant that is fitted as a matter of course when a clamp is installed?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Nope the mounting bolts are at each side of the particle filter about half way up it. There are two 13mm nuts holding it to the block.
Oh OK, don't recall seeing them, will need to have another check. I need someone like you in the North West of England!:thumb:

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Sure you have come away with a few answers anyway. It'll work out fine loosening off the two nuts.
I sure have. Going to check that clamp again soon, after loosening those 2 13mm nuts halfway up the DPF. Just don't recall seeing them last time.. I have to get to the bottom of this. I guess it doesn't help with the EGR Valve not working either (according to planet).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Is was something like 'EGR stuck open - actual value not same as reference value'.

Had a go at trying to remove the EGR valve yesterday down at the back of the engine. Ended up stripping the torx screw on the valve itself, light was fading so gave up for the day. Looks like I chose the wrong screw anyway but couldn't see the bolts that hold it to the engine it's that restricted. Will try again next week...


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
D

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
You'll remove it about five minutes with an 8mm ratchet spanner. There are two studs holding it to the head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Hi again. Tried to remove the EGR valve again today. Located the 2 x 8mm nuts and undone them. Can't seem to remove the lower nut because of a pipe over it that wont budge. Found a fixing for it on right side, I guess there's one on the back somewhere for that pesky pipe... Anyway, with the nuts undone I can't seem to get the EGR valve off. Looks like its crimp connected on to the EGR exchanger which is complicating things. Do I need to remove both complete? Just looking to see how you guys did this step by step as I am finding it really tight at the back of the engine and I am working blind, albeit with a small mirror...

Thanks.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Right, bought Wynns EGR Cleaner to try out. If that doesn't work, contingency is to use blanking plate that I purchased on eBay, that should at least clear the fault. Then it's on to the actual leak. I am wondering if it's actually the exhaust clamp again or the exhaust manifold seal... I can see where I am heading with the exhaust clamp install, but in case it's not that, how easy is it to remove the exhaust manifold in order to reseal against cylinder head?

Thanks.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top