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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
[SOLVED] Engine temperature too high - STOP warning on dash - but engine is cold

My Daughters 207 2009 has been running perfectly until yesterday, when starting it at the shops after only a 3Km run, the Temperature Gauge moved immediately to the top, the STOP warning appeared with the beeping.
The car was only mildly warm.

Left the car standing for around 5 hours and started it again, exactly the same result. I drove it home as it was only 500 meters away and left it standing overnight.

Same thing this morning. Within 3-5 seconds of starting the car, the needle jumps to the top and the STOP warning appears with the beeping.

There are no issues with coolant, oil, or any other similar thing.

The water pump was replaced about 7 months ago and the temperature sensor housing was replaced about 3 months ago as it started leaking fluid.

Now having done a bunch of reading here and elsewhere, I removed the Temperature sensor that sits inside the temperature sensor housing.

I placed that in some hot water with a multimeter attached and it seems to be working fine. Reinstalled it however I see the same problem.

Clearly it is not an overheating issue but some sort of electrical fault.

Is that the only sensor that could be causing this issue ? Does this mean it is likely to be an ECU fault meaning that is a heck of a big expense to fix ?

Any thoughts / suggestions would be much appreciated.

cheers
(Australia)
 

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Your temp sensor has failed due to water ingress replace it but check the wiring for signs of water ingress well known issue you say you tested it but it could still be sending the wrong readings back normally coolant fan comes on too.
 

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You will also need to get fault code in BSI cleared or the fault will still be present when sensor is changed
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you both for the swift feedback.

Ok I will replace the sensor as suggested.

As to checking the cabling, is that just a "by sight" thing, just looking to see if there is water/fluid in the cabling loom/cover ?
Or is there something more specific I should be looking for ?

Thanks also for the comment on Resetting, it did not occur to me that I would have to do that. I have an OBD-II here.

cheers
 

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as for checking, i remove a battery lead first, then you have 3 main plugs on the ecu and fusebox. Press tab and swing the arm back on each to release.

you are then looking for any water or signs of green corrosion.

try and bung hole or be fast when removing sensor to save loosing much coolant.

note any bleed valves stat/bulkhead and use these to bleed after, i get engine warm and give pipes a squeese.

obd should be ok to reset but note some codes need pp2000 etc
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Updating you on the current situation ....

I purchased a new Sensor and installed it. Unfortunately I still see the exact same issue.

Would it be reasonable to assume the problem then is the ECU ?

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks again for the replies.

Regarding clearing of codes / resetting, I have an ELM327 OBD2 ODBII Bluetooth device that has a number of mobile apps available from the Android/Google Play store.

Will this do the job, or do I need something like a PP2000 Lexia 3 ?

thanks
 

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Planet/lexia needed
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Found It !! :)

Long story short, the pins (or pin) in the plug connector that plugs into the Temperature Sensor were not actually connecting with the pins in te sensor.

Pushing the wires hard down into the connector got it going.

I spent a good number hours today coming at this from all angles. Noting that I had changed the Sensor with a new one with no change. The Error Codes still reported a "High".

When I shorted the cable, at the Sensor end of the cable, the plug that ultimately was causing the problem, the Error Codes showed "Low".
Thus the signal was reaching the ECU fine, and the the signal was being interpreted by the ECU correctly.

s mentioned testing the original Sensor in hot water showed it was operating correctly but I still replaced with a new one.

When I unplugged the connector once more a small piece of plastic was left behind. Looking closer it looked like the green inner housing had deteriorated somewhat and as a result the silver female pins were moving around.

I put the connector back on, pushed the wires hard in and they moved quite a bit.
Checked the error codes again and the High was not being reported.

Reset the error codes and bingo, everything is back to normal.

Funnily enough a similar thing happened to me about 5 years go on our Nissan Maxima. Mass Air Flow Sensor.
The car was running roughly, the garage I took it to said it was the MAFS and replaced it at a hefty cost.
The problem persisted. Then they said it must be a Coil.
I said bugga it I'll fix it myself and after some messing around found a wire to the connector on the MAFS was loose. Pushed it in, glued it in, and it has been running perfectly since.

Anyway thanks to you all for the input / help, much appreciated.
 
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