[alin]

I have a 2011 Peugeot 5008 1.6 HDI family.
When I'm driving I have realise I have to accelerate sometimes more than usual to get power.
Something like, I feel I can't accelerate smooth to maintain power. For example if I am in the 4th gear and I have less than 2500rot/min I have to accelerate harder (not smooth) to get power or to change in 3rd gear to be sure is more than 2500rot/min. Everything else is ok. If it is less than 2500rot/min it is not ok....
It has 105000km (66000 miles) and running well....
any idea please?
Many thanks guys

 

[jimmymarsbar]

Is the engine management light on? Do you get the depollution message on the screen?

 

[alin]

Thanks for answer.
No light on and no errors so far

 

[grumpyoldgit]

Blocked fuel filter and or air filter?

 

[jimmymarsbar]

When was the car last serviced? As grumpyoldgit said, it could be something simple like the filters

 

[alin]

I have bought my car 2 weeks ago. The seller told me that a full service has been done....but I have no proof(receipt...etc)
Many thanks for advices....probably I will book a full service to be sure
It is first time for me having a Peugeot. I really enjoy driving this car

 

[alin]

Just an update...
A major service has been done, including replacement of all filters(air, fuel, pollen, oil), engine oil and "flushing turbo" as well.
Everything on service report comes with no advisory. No errors code at all
My car still jerking sometime when driving.....it is like is not fueling properly or I feel is running in 3 pistons...not 4 ...
If I stop the engine for 15 min and after that I resume driving everything seems fine for a while... I don't get it
Maybe I didn't find the right engineer to check my engine properly.... I don't know.
I live in Kettering - Northans and if you can recommend me a skilled engineer to check my car I highly appreciate
Many thanks

PS Peugeot 5008, 1.6 hdi, 66k on clock - 11 plate

 

[Ayel]

Please check these links. Maybe someone is around you.

http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/introductions-28/brief-faq-guide-new-members-83170/#post529130

http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums...ntact-member-peugeot-planet-diagnostic-28190/

http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/maintenance-9/diagnostic-peugeot-planet-map-7734/

For diagnostic guys will do same as dealer for much less.

Be sure what is going on before you book garage apoitment.

 

[oh_superb]

Just an update...
A major service has been done, including replacement of all filters(air, fuel, pollen, oil), engine oil and "flushing turbo" as well.
Everything on service report comes with no advisory. No errors code at all
My car still jerking sometime when driving.....it is like is not fueling properly or I feel is running in 3 pistons...not 4 ...
If I stop the engine for 15 min and after that I resume driving everything seems fine for a while... I don't get it
Maybe I didn't find the right engineer to check my engine properly.... I don't know.
I live in Kettering - Northans and if you can recommend me a skilled engineer to check my car I highly appreciate
Many thanks

PS Peugeot 5008, 1.6 hdi, 66k on clock - 11 plate

My experience of small diesel engines is that they are laggy and peaky. Are you sure this is not just an engine characteristic you are experiencing?

If you are sure there is an issue, as suggested, get it code read, see if a long term code is stored. Be mindful no code does not necessarily mean no issue, it's just that it is then not a BIG issue to be recognised by the ECU.

If code found, investigation direction can be taken.

If no code, it gets tricky. I would probably go to an independent garage, get them to specifically remove the EGR valve and give it a thorough clean with EGR valve de-coking compound. I would also remove the MAF sensor from the car, and give it a clean with brake cleaner or such like, and when thoroughly dry, put back in the vehicle. If using brake cleaner, make sure it's of the type that does not leave residue.

Finally as far as aspiration of the car is concerned, I would also check that the breather pipe is not blocked, cracked or loose, all the way from the crankcase entry point to the compressor entry point.

In terms of fuel system, I would run a can of good injection system cleaner through on a whole tank. I have had good experience with Normfest CT60 in the past on a number of cars, but there are others. Over those 500-600 miles while you are burning through that tank you should start experiencing gradual improvements if the issue is a partially blocked injector, but nothing can fix a breaking up injector if it is breaking up.

Finally, are you confident the car has not been power upgraded through a dodgy remap or some sort of resistor on the fuel pump loom??

 

[alin]

Thank you for a quick answer.
I will try to clean the MAF sensor and I will use an injector cleaner as a first step.
Very useful your post.
I will post an update later
Many thanks

 

[oh_superb]

Thank you for a quick answer.
I will try to clean the MAF sensor and I will use an injector cleaner as a first step.
Very useful your post.
I will post an update later
Many thanks

You're welcome. Be careful with the MAF, do not touch anything inside, just spray at it.

Use an expensive injector cleaner, in my experience the 5 pound a bottle type stuff is a complete waste of money. Try BG244. It is around 20 quid a can. Or CT60, that is a lot cheaper. And don't expect an immediate improvement. Run the whole fuel tank.
And then on the next tank use Shell Super Diesel.
Might be stating the obvious, but if the car has not been on a good Motorway blast for a while, it might be trying to regenerate. My 2.0 HDI (5008) drives differently when trying to regenerate the FAP. Notably, it feels less powerful during initial 20% pedal, then as I approach half pedal it takes off like a scalded cat. That sort of brash behaviour does not happen otherwise.

 

[alin]

I have cleaned the MAF sensor and I have added injector cleaner to a full fuel tank as well. I will keep an eye on it for the next few days.
Your last question makes me worry:

"Finally, are you confident the car has not been power upgraded through a dodgy remap or some sort of resistor on the fuel pump loom?? "

I have no idea...
Is any chance to find out?
How can I know? ... because make sense what you are saying
Many thanks

 

[oh_superb]

I have cleaned the MAF sensor and I have added injector cleaner to a full fuel tank as well. I will keep an eye on it for the next few days.
Your last question makes me worry:

"Finally, are you confident the car has not been power upgraded through a dodgy remap or some sort of resistor on the fuel pump loom?? "

I have no idea...
Is any chance to find out?
How can I know? ... because make sense what you are saying
Many thanks

Perhaps if you get friendly with a local tuning company and get them to check? Or contact previous owner. A tuning company could just read your ECU and compare to a stock map on file. It takes maybe 20 mins. Just check the OBD port if anything is plugged into it, and have a good look around the engine bay for any strange little black boxes…

As a last resort, you could do a 3rd gear pull at full throttle where safe to do so with instantaneous MPG showing. Make a note of MPG you read at 3500 - 4000 rpm range. If it has been remapped it will show a 30% lower mpg than an equivalent unmapped car. It doesn't have to be another 5008, as long as it is the same engine, if you have a friend or if you ask someone on this forum to check, so you can have a direct comparison.

For example, just to clarify, my previous car (V6 diesel) would pull around 16 mpg at full load close to maximum engine speed. Before remapping it was around 21-22 mpg. More power more fuel.

 

[alin]

Perhaps if you get friendly with a local tuning company and get them to check? Or contact previous owner. A tuning company could just read your ECU and compare to a stock map on file. It takes maybe 20 mins. Just check the OBD port if anything is plugged into it, and have a good look around the engine bay for any strange little black boxes…

As a last resort, you could do a 3rd gear pull at full throttle where safe to do so with instantaneous MPG showing. Make a note of MPG you read at 3500 - 4000 rpm range. If it has been remapped it will show a 30% lower mpg than an equivalent unmapped car. It doesn't have to be another 5008, as long as it is the same engine, if you have a friend or if you ask someone on this forum to check, so you can have a direct comparison.

For example, just to clarify, my previous car (V6 diesel) would pull around 16 mpg at full load close to maximum engine speed. Before remapping it was around 21-22 mpg. More power more fuel.

I have checked and everything seems to be ok. Nothing around the engine or in OBD port.
Now my car is running better after MAF sensor has been cleaned. It is still having light issues in the first 10 min of driving. If I stop my car for 10 min everything is normal.
Someone recommended to update ECU software because everything will be all right. What do you think?
Many thanks

 

[oh_superb]

I have checked and everything seems to be ok. Nothing around the engine or in OBD port.
Now my car is running better after MAF sensor has been cleaned. It is still having light issues in the first 10 min of driving. If I stop my car for 10 min everything is normal.
Someone recommended to update ECU software because everything will be all right. What do you think?
Many thanks

Ask the dealer if a software update is available. I wouldn't bother with remapping. Most just raise the torque curve. It will still not be smooth.
Get a can of Normfest CT60. Run it in the tank for the whole tank, and please do some 80 mph cruising to burn the bad black stuff in the turbo and engine off. When mine is trying to regenerate the DPF, it drives differently than normal. Perhaps all your car needs is a bit of high load running to clear itself.
Unless you do Motorway driving anyway? What is your typical usage profile, short commute, long commute, school runs? I do everything from school runs to long commutes to pan-european drives. But I do know quite constantly around town it will need a DPF regen every 250-350 miles, and every 600-800 miles on the motorway. If I drive it hard on the motorway, then DPF regen happens spontaneously due to the exhaust temperature being sufficiently high without introducing post-injection. I know it's post injecting when I release throttle the engine is booming… also at idle it is booming too. If I open the door then, the exhaust smells acrid. I always let it finish the regen.

DPF aside, and MAF aside (done, thumbs up), I Would say the only remaining potential culprit is a sticky EGR valve. If possible, remove it and clean it with an old toothbrush and a can of EGR valve cleaner. I would do the same on mine as it is probably quite ugly at 63000 miles, but I can't find it on the 2 litre. I reckon it is at the back of the engine, perhaps accessible from below on a ramp, or engine out? Gosh, complicated. It is easier to just run the car hard on the motorway and every six months use some sort of injection system cleaner to reduce soot generation.

Finally, you say issue is most noticeable when engine cold. This to me points to EGR. Much less EGR is requested when engine cold. So perhaps your valve is struggling near the closed position.

 

[alin]

Ask the dealer if a software update is available. I wouldn't bother with remapping. Most just raise the torque curve. It will still not be smooth.
Get a can of Normfest CT60. Run it in the tank for the whole tank, and please do some 80 mph cruising to burn the bad black stuff in the turbo and engine off. When mine is trying to regenerate the DPF, it drives differently than normal. Perhaps all your car needs is a bit of high load running to clear itself.
Unless you do Motorway driving anyway? What is your typical usage profile, short commute, long commute, school runs? I do everything from school runs to long commutes to pan-european drives. But I do know quite constantly around town it will need a DPF regen every 250-350 miles, and every 600-800 miles on the motorway. If I drive it hard on the motorway, then DPF regen happens spontaneously due to the exhaust temperature being sufficiently high without introducing post-injection. I know it's post injecting when I release throttle the engine is booming… also at idle it is booming too. If I open the door then, the exhaust smells acrid. I always let it finish the regen.

DPF aside, and MAF aside (done, thumbs up), I Would say the only remaining potential culprit is a sticky EGR valve. If possible, remove it and clean it with an old toothbrush and a can of EGR valve cleaner. I would do the same on mine as it is probably quite ugly at 63000 miles, but I can't find it on the 2 litre. I reckon it is at the back of the engine, perhaps accessible from below on a ramp, or engine out? Gosh, complicated. It is easier to just run the car hard on the motorway and every six months use some sort of injection system cleaner to reduce soot generation.

Finally, you say issue is most noticeable when engine cold. This to me points to EGR. Much less EGR is requested when engine cold. So perhaps your valve is struggling near the closed position.

I will follow your advice.
Next week I am going in holyday where I have to drive around 3000 miles within the EU.
I will add a can of Normfest CT60 to a full tank of V-Power from Shell. I hope will be all right.
I will post an update when I'm back in 3 weeks time.
Many thanks

 

[alin]

After more than 4k miles motorway driving my issue is slightly improved. I have found a weird symptom when my engine is jerking, in the same time the radio looks like is loosing signal and any audio in the car speakers is with interference ....
If I stop the car for 10 min and than I turn on and continue driving everything is ok (engine & audio).
Looks like a fantasy story and is annoying.
I have started to believe that the seller has conned me ...
I appreciate any advise
Many thanks