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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys,

I had a problem yesterday with the car. It is a 2002 2.0 HDI 90. I was driving home and when idling the car started making a load electrical/grinding noise and sounded like something was slipping when the noise occurred. Almost like a belt was slipping and then picking up again with a low jolt. When this happens there is a noise like a belt slipping and then this stops for a while and starts doing it again after about 5 or 10 minutes. The noise goes away when the car is in gear and when the revs are over 1500rpm. This morning the car started to almost stall when the screech and slip noise happens. I was at about 60mph this morning when there was no noise but the rev needle would suddenly drop to 0 and then jolt back up to about 2500rpm. This happened 3 or 4 times. I had almost got to work and then got a 'battery charge fault' warning on the MFD. The noise is getting worse and is now quite bad when the car is started and is now almost always there and the car almost stalls.

I've uploaded a video as it's easier for you to hear it rather than trying to describe it. I can't see the belt slipping but I can hear that the noise is coming from the alternator/belt area.

Video is here:
http://youtu.be/on_swMdNumI

Does anyone know what this noise is likely to be? I presume it could be the alternator or a pulley wheel seizing. Where is the water pump on these cars? I can see something under the alternator but I'm not entirely sure what it is.

I also noticed that when the car is idling and I turn the steering wheel very quickly then the noise also gets worse ? I know the PAS pump is connected to the alternator so I'm wondering if the alternator is the problem.

Thanks,

Chris
 

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Hi guys,

I had a problem yesterday with the car. It is a 2002 2.0 HDI 90. I was driving home and when idling the car started making a load electrical/grinding noise and sounded like something was slipping when the noise occurred. Almost like a belt was slipping and then picking up again with a low jolt. When this happens there is a noise like a belt slipping and then this stops for a while and starts doing it again after about 5 or 10 minutes. The noise goes away when the car is in gear and when the revs are over 1500rpm. This morning the car started to almost stall when the screech and slip noise happens. I was at about 60mph this morning when there was no noise but the rev needle would suddenly drop to 0 and then jolt back up to about 2500rpm. This happened 3 or 4 times. I had almost got to work and then got a 'battery charge fault' warning on the MFD. The noise is getting worse and is now quite bad when the car is started and is now almost always there and the car almost stalls.

I've uploaded a video as it's easier for you to hear it rather than trying to describe it. I can't see the belt slipping but I can hear that the noise is coming from the alternator/belt area.

Video is here:
http://youtu.be/on_swMdNumI

Does anyone know what this noise is likely to be? I presume it could be the alternator or a pulley wheel seizing. Where is the water pump on these cars? I can see something under the alternator but I'm not entirely sure what it is.

I also noticed that when the car is idling and I turn the steering wheel very quickly then the noise also gets worse ? I know the PAS pump is connected to the alternator so I'm wondering if the alternator is the problem.

Thanks,

Chris
sound like the auxiliary belt is slipping and could just be belt or it could be a bearing seizing, the water pump is on the timing belt
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks trustme. I've now found out that it's the air con pump under the alternator so I'm wondering if it could be that. I'll now have to get the belt off and see if anything on the pulleys etc is not as free to turn as it should.

Should the alternator and air con wheels be easy to turn by hand? How can I tell if the bearings in one of them or the pulley wheels are seizing as I don't know how easy they should turn. I mean, do they already have a certain amount of resistance to them?

Thanks,

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I've managed to get the belt off and I've turned all the pulley wheels and the alternator clutch/wheel and the aircon pump wheel.

All of them seem to turn very easy and freely.

The aircon pump wheel has a little more friction than the others so I thought that might be the problem but I think it's actually the alternator. The alternator pulley seems to be easy to move with no noise.

However, when I spin the alternator clutch quickly to engage the internal alternator mechanism then you can see the blades in the alternator rotate and there is a distinctive grating/light grinding noise and you can feel something kind of rubbing in the alternator at the same time. :eek:

So I'm pretty convinced it's the alternator. Now just got to get that off and test it properly.

Cheers,

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi all,

I know it's been a while since I've been on here but I thought I'd let you all know what the outcome to help anyone else who gets this problem.

It was the alternator seizing. When the alternator seized it would stop the belt from moving and then as a result would stop the engine momentarily as the engine could not move the belt.

I decided to get the air con pump tested and that was also found to be partially beginning to seize. So that would have gone as well soon. I was quoted £650 for a new one and then labour costs on top of that.

The car was due it's MoT and I got the Airbag warning checked and I was told it was the Comms unit causing the fault and that it would cost about £500 plus labour to replace.

So unfortunately the time had to come to sell the car as I just could not afford between £1500 and £2000 to get it repaired.

Thanks,

Chris
 

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Thanks for the follow up Chris, wow that was a really over the top quote for that work, would have expected less than half that in a garage around here as none of those items are that difficult to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Renegade,

Yes it was just way too expensive and uneconomical to repair. The parts alone were approx £1200 plus the cost of an alternator at almost £350 and then labour on top of it all. I had already spent far too much on the car anyway at that point.

I now have a newer 207 HDI instead which I've had for a couple of weeks and so far I'm really enjoying it. It seems to have a minor issue (blue smoke on cold start) which I'm just researching to see what the cause may be. The car is still under warranty so if this issue does seem to be a real problem then I'll see if the warranty covers it and I'll take it to the main dealer for an inspection/diagnostics.

Thanks,

Chris
 

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Well do yourself a favour and don't get it repaired by whoever quoted you on the 307 as they were clearly ripping you off. Even our local Pug agent charges less than five hundred quid to supply and fit a comms 2000 unit. I was quoted £165 for a comms 2000 unit supplied and fitted by one of our local Pug independents. The alternator probably around £200 - £250 at tops. Suppose it depends where you live in the country.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Renegade,

I couldn't believe the cost of repair either. I got a quote from 2 local independents and they were about the same so I didn't even bother going to the dealer because I thought they'd be even more expensive. Maybe it's just the cost of things in the South West.

Cheers,

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Renegade,

Forgot to say that the cost of the alternator was £350 after the exchange surcharge was subtracted from the real price of it :eek:

Thanks,

Chris
 

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I was fortunate to have company cars with a number of jobs from 1987 to 2011 when I was made redundant and got a job without a car. Because I am handy with the spanners I have been able to do all my own maintenance apart from changing tyres, wheel balancing & tracking - mainly because I don't have the equipment. The only time I paid to have a job done was to have the starter motor replaced on an 02 astra because the only way to get one on the same day was through Halfords and only if they fitted it. I needed it doing the same day as I commuted 60 miles each way to work & back and couldn't afford to lose time from work.

A used alternator can be picked up for less than £50 and a new aircon compressor dor around £130. Fitting yourself for free then the cost of a regass is a whole lot less than the OP was quoted. But if you aren't in a position to do the jobs yourself then the choices are more limited but the quotes do seem a lot on the high side.
 
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