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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all!
I have been lurking around on this and other forums the last few days as i have been having problems with my car.

My car: Peugeot 406 2003, 2,0 HDI, 110 hp. AL4 automatic gearbox

How it started:
Me and my uncle were trying to get the radiator fan to work as it was not turning on when it was supposed to, we disconnected what we though was the temperature feeler on the radiator and we did something stupid, yes i already know you should never do this on a car, but anyway, we connected it to the battery through separate cables. and no i have many faults on my car.

alarms that popped up:
-Anti pollution Disabled
-Automatic gearbox disabled
-automatic headlight control disables(something like that )
-Anti theft system disabled

Current condition:
I have PP2000 and connected to the car, i disabled some of the alarms but all of the faults found on the engine ECU are permanent faults that i cannot remove. I suspect that we might have burned a cable or part, but i do not know which one.
The car is able to start, but the throttle is not responding.
Also one fuse was broken so we replaced that but still have the same problems. (fuse 8 in the engine compartment)

Pictures of PP2000





Having a radiator fan not working is much preferable to a car not working.

Is there still hope for my car? i assume i need some new electrical parts, any advice? please

Thank you
 

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Please check all the fuses. You might have blown a fuse, causing a device to block the communication via the CAN/VAN buses.

There is a fuse box inside the passenger compartment (below the steering wheel) and there is a fuse box inside the engine compartment.

The fuse box inside the engine compartment also contains the so-called "maxi-fuses" which are quite difficult to access. The box with maxi-fuses can only be seen if you remove the top board first (with all the connectors going into it). An image is here: club.caradisiac.com/alex181/essuie-glace-47339/photo/bsm-b3-delphi-3197672.html (sorry cannot post URLs yet :(). The maxi-fuses are at the bottom.
 

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I would think you have spiked or blown your engine ECU. The coolant sensor circuit is low current and you have at a guess blown the the input stage of the ECU which is most likely linked to other sensors like throttle position sensor etc.

Have you tried a BSI reset as it may have just been spiked

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have checked all of the fuses, none of them are bad(other than fuse number 8 in the engine compartment fuse box, that I already replaced) I will try to reset my BSI later today and see what happens, although I'm also starting to think that I might have blown the ECU.
There is a Peugeot 406 1999 close to where I live that will be going to scrap, would it be possible that the ECU from that one would fit mine(mine is 2004)? I assume I would also need to replace the BSI with it.

Thank you for replies!
 

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Unless the 406 is different, you will also need the keyfob(s), which are programmed to the BSI - you can swap the keyblades, so you don't need to change the locks.

Be aware that the immobiliser chip in the keyfob is clipped into the shell - not attached/part of the module, and you need that swapped over as well!

Then, should you need to program a new keyfob, you will need the 4 digit security code for the donor car, so get that if the owner has it, or you can get it from a dealer by quoting the donor VIN.
 

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There is a Peugeot 406 1999 close to where I live that will be going to scrap, would it be possible that the ECU from that one would fit mine(mine is 2004)? I assume I would also need to replace the BSI with it.

Thank you for replies!
I doubt if the ecu from the 1999 would fit yours. That ecu is likely to have a large single plug connector whereas your 2004 model should have an ecu with 3 smaller connecting plugs.

You would need the full kit from donor car, i.e. ecu, bsi and key [or rather the chip inside the key].

I would go checking for corrosion on ecu and bsi pins first.

Also, have a look under the carpet on the rhs[driver's side] at the 2 large wiring loom connector blocks. They are very prone to being damaged by water ingress under the carpet and can cause all sorts of running/braking/electrical issues if this is the case. I have had to cut them out of 4 of my 406's and solder/heatshrink the wires together to restore normality to the car...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
my car is 2003, sorry my mistake. but yes it does have the ECU with 3 smaller connection plugs.
I have checked all the connections to the ECU and BSI and they are in a good condition, i even opened the ECU and had a look to see if i could see any signs of "Burns" or short circuts. (i looked it up first to see how to safely open the ECU without destroying it)
All of my pins are in good condition, no sign of corrosion or wear.

My drivers side is on the left side, i have checked the wires there and they all seem to be fine.

I tried to reset my BSI by using the method of locking/opening the car, turning off the battery, switching on the light etc.... but it is still all the same, is there any other way of resetting the BSI? would it give any form of indication that it has been reset? i did not see anything change when i did it.

Also, are there any other fuse boxes other than the ones on the left hand side(where my steering wheel is) and in the engine compartment?
 

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Does sound like you have damaged your ecu have you checked the fuses UNDER the fusebox ?

If you have damaged your ecu you cannot JUST change the ecu you need a matched set ecu bsi and key and if your mileage is lower than the replacement set it will change to the higher amount no way round that
 

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my car is 2003, sorry my mistake. but yes it does have the ECU with 3 smaller connection plugs.
I have checked all the connections to the ECU and BSI and they are in a good condition, i even opened the ECU and had a look to see if i could see any signs of "Burns" or short circuts. (i looked it up first to see how to safely open the ECU without destroying it)
All of my pins are in good condition, no sign of corrosion or wear.

My drivers side is on the left side, i have checked the wires there and they all seem to be fine.

I tried to reset my BSI by using the method of locking/opening the car, turning off the battery, switching on the light etc.... but it is still all the same, is there any other way of resetting the BSI? would it give any form of indication that it has been reset? i did not see anything change when i did it.

Also, are there any other fuse boxes other than the ones on the left hand side(where my steering wheel is) and in the engine compartment?
When you opened the ecu did you see any copper coloured tracks from the multiplug to the main components, they should have a green or similar coating on them but if they overheat (from shorting etc) it burns off showing the copper. If so look closely at that area as the track may have melted there
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When you opened the ecu did you see any copper coloured tracks from the multiplug to the main components, they should have a green or similar coating on them but if they overheat (from shorting etc) it burns off showing the copper. If so look closely at that area as the track may have melted there
I am not entirely sure which part you are talking about, but I looked closely on the whole board on both sides and saw no signs of burn, discolouring, or any form of damage.

Also, the alarm for the automatic headlight disabled is back on, and the fault for the gearbox I am able to remove, but it does come back after running the engine for a few minutes. (Snow and sport light flashing)

When I look for a new used ECU and BSI does it have to be from a car that is exactly the same as mine, I mean like same model, gearbox, engine etc..
or can it be from a car same modell as long as the connections fit, then I configure it on PP2000?

Can anyone provide me with some more information that is more specific regarding replacement of the ECU and BSI, thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Does sound like you have damaged your ecu have you checked the fuses UNDER the fusebox ?

If you have damaged your ecu you cannot JUST change the ecu you need a matched set ecu bsi and key and if your mileage is lower than the replacement set it will change to the higher amount no way round that
Do you mean the maxifuses that Camel was talking about? Yes I did check those.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Any other ideas as to what I can try? If not I will go ahead and start looking for a new BSI and ECU from scrapyards and similar places.
 

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If your not seeing any burnt tracks in ecu then it may well be terminal so if you are looking for an ecu set make sure you get 1 from a car with the same fuel system same power output and roughly the same age.

The gearbox wont matter auto or manual as the gearbox type can be changed with planet

Some say numbers must match etc but as long as its from same version of engine it will work
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I found a guy that crashed his car, but ECU and BSI is fine, his car is the exact same as mine, just that he has manual, problem is that his ECU is from simens and mine is Bosch, would it still work? The connections look the same
My Bosch ECU has the number: 9642301880
His simens ECU has the number: SW9653059780(common rail)
And: HW9647423380
Will his ECU fit my car?
 

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No it will not work without switching injectors and the main engine harness as a minimum. Siemens injectors and ecu pinouts are different to Bosch.

I would have thought getting a secondhand ecu and have data copied over or a free running ecu would be cheaper
 

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They clone your original ECU settings. The listing explains - read it carefully - particularly the bit about either the part numbers must match, or ask for advice about compatibility.
 

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Plug and play can be done in a few different ways they can be done by removing the immobiliser this means it will work in any car with same engine spec.

They can as Ian says clone your original meaning it will match your car only as per original
they can also blank the ecu making it virgin as in like brand new one this would probably need planet and your security code to get it working.

Its important to understand what you are buying.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
My car is finally working again, turns out it was the TPS-throttle positioning sensor, it completely stopped working and gave me two pages of faults on pp2000. luckily i found a guy nearby selling parts from his peugeot 406 and i bought it cheap from him.

Before i found out it was the TPS giving problems, i purchased the plug and play ECU but since that was not the fault, the seller offered me a 50% refund, really nice of him, i would highly reccomend him to anyone needing a bench programmed ECU. (Ebay username jcracknellcarsales)

Anyway, thank you all for good advice and help! it is very much appreciated!
 
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