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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I’m currently the owner of a 207 gti. It’s a late 2009 model with the VIN VF3WM5FYC9W112212.
The vehicle recently developed an ABS / ESP fault. I was braking into a 90 degree left hand bend and the dashboard light came on.
I checked for codes (have to admit it was an expensive snap-on reader not PP though). The codes that came back were C1321and C1326. C1326 was cleared by fitting a new sensor and then ring, however C1321 remains (LH front wheel signal coherence).
So far I have done the following:
- Replaced the sensor (also cleaned the fitting area of any rust)
- Replaced the bearing (ABS ring is integral)
- Swapped the front sensors around to prove/disprove a faulty new sensor
- Checked the continuity of the wiring from the sensor flylead connector (in wheel arch) to the ABS / ESP module.
- Checked the Maxi fuses, underbonnet fuse box, connectors etc.

Nothing has solved the fault. When I view the output data using a scanner the signal is very noisy and eventually the fault code reappears.
Does anyone have any advice regarding this issue?
Should my first task be to get it onto PP and if so does anyone in east lancs have it?
I’ll also add that the car isn’t exhibiting any other issue that could be related to ABS / ECU failure (though I haven’t ruled this out) such as speedo not working etc. The new bearing is in the correct way though it was very tight during fitting so did require some persuasion. I did check the abs ring after fitting and it didn’t appear to have any damage.

Many thanks in advance

Ryan
 

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seems like the same thing i went through many moons ago, in our case it was just codes for the right front wheel, everything else worked fine. In the end took the gamble and swapped the abs/ecu, just this part not the pump, and light went off straight away.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Stripe,

Thanks for your reply. Can the ABS ECU be stripped off the hydraulic block and motor whilst the assembly is in situ?

I’ve found a couple of used assemblies on EBay with the same number on them. I believe this has to be done to avoid recoding once fitted?

Thanks
 

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yes, from memory you need to remove the metal bracket which is a few screws underneath and one down by the battery from the top, then there is enough room to get a t screwdiver in to undo the 3 screws, it will then pull off the pump.



Think i may have had the bumper off, but should be able to get to it with it on.

and this is what it looks like inside
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Stripe,

Thanks again for the extra info and photos. This may well be an avenue I go down. Did you match the serial number of your ECU to the one you replaced it with?
Or did you just buy the first available/cheapest?
Also is there anything to be aware of when removing the ECU? Anything pop out or off etc, any de soldering required?

Thanks again

Ryan
 

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yes i matched numbers, but some have got away with just swapping to another of the same car, bit of a gamble though.
Once the screws are out it just slides off the round pegs, nothing else to worry about.
May be worth taking it off and giving it all a spray first, long shot but you never know.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I think I’m with you now. So it’s just a case of disconnecting the large connector block and removing the screws as you described earlier in the thread?

I’m thinking this will solve the issue if it’s a knackered resistor or other component on the ABS ECU printed circuit board (which it sounds like your issue was). Have to admit my brakes feel awful until the fault activates on the dash then the brakes actually feel better (but without ABS). I’m wondering if my issue lies within the hydraulic block and one of the valves. Is there anyway to check the entire abs functionality?
 

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could be, clean the plug first though. i think pp/lexia have a brake bleeding menu which activates the pump one side at a time to get air out, may show a fault.

i changed 1 sensor and 2 rings before taking the gamble, you may want to swap the whole unit with your fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi all,

Didn’t want folk to think I’d dissappeared on this one. I’ll be reporting as progress is made so that hopefully it’ll help people in the future. I didn’t find much information on this topic hence my current situation!!

UPDATE

The car is booked into the main dealers for them to check with PP software as I couldn’t seem to find anybody local with the software willing to assist (not a dig as I know folks are very busy doing their actual jobs and this is a voluntary forum!).

Once I get more details from Peugeot I’ll update further.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Hi all,

My issue is finally resolved so I thought I’d update this thread to close it off and hopefully help folk in the future.

It turns out that I’d solved some of the issues (rear sensor) by carrying out the activities listed in the thread above.

The final issue was with the bearing. I replaced the bearing but with a none genuine equivalent. I’m not sure if this has any bearing (forgive the pun!!) on why it didn’t fix the issue. Suffice to say the new bearing was either unserviceable on fit or I’ve not fitted it correctly, I want to believe it was broken prior to fit but the pragmatist in me thinks it was damaged during fit as I know it was a bugger to get in. I did put the bearing in the freezer and the hub carrier in the oven but even this action didn’t make the bearing the easiest to fit (and I’ve done a few!!).
I did inspect the bearing after fitting and it did appear fine, but this has proved to me that appearances can be deceiving.

What I’ve learned from this is that the bearing is a really delicate item (especially the material that interacts with the sensor to generate a signal). If you don’t have a workshop press to install the bearing then get one or find access to one.
I used a threaded bar and washers / oversize sockets for the first bearing, but bit the bullet and used a press for the second one. This solved the issue but with no visual difference between either fit.
 
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