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Discussion Starter #1
I have had DPF issues for about a year now caused by a fault with the fuel filler cap sensor. Tried forced regeneration through Planet with no luck, it is clogged...

I am wondering whether I should take the DPF and attempt to clean it (as in this guide) or whether I should just replace it? I read that the DPF is only good for 100,000 miles or so and the car has done nearly 130,000. I think the previous owner may have had the whole exhaust system replaced before I bought it (I can check paperwork later at home, if anyone thinks it matters), but I bought the car at 56,000 miles, so that would probably mean the DPF has done at least 80,000 miles at best.

If this was your car and you were in my situation, what would you do?
 

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depends how badly you need your car, if there no urgency then I'd whip it off and give it a good clean, if you need it quickly then replace, essentially cleaning it will give it some more life but no guarantee that it wont clog again in and 20k. If you do go the cleaning route then remember to do a forced regen once complete as it will reset the system into thinking its possibly a new unit and maybe give you a bit of power back as a bonus :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A replacement filter assembly is pricey. GSF are selling one for £250 for my car (2.0 hdi 110).

Sorting out the DPF is on my to do list too, so I'm going live up to my tight-fisted Yorkshireman reputation and take it off and clean it :)
Was planning on buying from here which is a bit cheaper than you mentioned, £210 including VAT and next day delivery.

What's the lifespan of the DPF?
 

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The lifespan would depend on how the car has been driven - if it's mainly urban use, then the DPF would clog much more quickly, as the car wouldn't regen as often. If the car has a frequent good run out, then it would be in better nick, as it would have had more opportunity to blast all the carbon out from the filter.

It also depends on whether the additive fluid tank has any juice left in it - this assists in the regen process.

A new DPF would obviously mean you'd have a better filter system for longer - if you're happy paying for it, then do it.

I just don't like parting with my money :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just don't like parting with my money :D
Yep, know the feeling. Redoing a bathroom at the moment so money is in rather short supply. Might go for the remove and clean option first and see how it goes.

Just hope that the nuts aren't as rusted and seized as on the back box rubber brackets I removed over the weekend, that was a nightmare.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, few questions about actually removing and cleaning then...

From memory it is fairly in the middle, more towards the front and slightly towards the passenger side? Would getting a jack on the front passenger side jacking point (followed by an axle stand or two, usually safety procedures etc) give me enough access to get under and work on it? Or would I need to jack it up from underneath on the subframe? Ramps?

I don't own a pressure washer, was thinking of taking it to a petrol station pay by the minute type place. I assume I probably shouldn't drive the car with the DPF completely removed? Haha.
 

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The DPF is a stupid idea - it's sole purpose must be a revenue maker for the stealers.

It's designed to trap diesel particulates in the filter, and prevent them from escaping into the atmosphere/environment. But when the car goes through the regen process, it's breaks down the carbon and particulates into smaller clumps so it can fit through the filter and be expelled via the exhaust, thus defeating the object of preventing particulate pollution etc.

It's all got to come out eventually, so why install a system which only prevents it and causes further issues? I'm going to wollop mine out and have the ECU remapped.
 

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From memory it is fairly in the middle, more towards the front and slightly towards the passenger side? Would getting a jack on the front passenger side jacking point (followed by an axle stand or two, usually safety procedures etc) give me enough access to get under and work on it? Or would I need to jack it up from underneath on the subframe? Ramps?
It depends on the engine type I think - there's one version of the filter which the cat and DPF is all integrated into the same assembly, so you'd have to cut an opening in the outer shell, gut it out with carb cleaner and give it a good rinse, then weld the hole shut.

The other version is easier - it's possible to seperate the cat and the DPF, with the DPF being the rearward section. There are photos here: http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/engine-53/dpf-removal-clean-guide-18052/

I'm going to have to inspect mine in more detail (photo below) to work out which version I've got - I'm not keen on the cutting open/welding shut option.... It's looking like I've got the version where the cat and DPF can be separated, although I could be mistaken!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The DPF is a stupid idea - it's sole purpose must be a revenue maker for the stealers.

It's designed to trap diesel particulates in the filter, and prevent them from escaping into the atmosphere/environment. But when the car goes through the regen process, it's breaks down the carbon and particulates into smaller clumps so it can fit through the filter and be expelled via the exhaust, thus defeating the object of preventing particulate pollution etc.

It's all got to come out eventually, so why install a system which only prevents it and causes further issues? I'm going to wollop mine out and have the ECU remapped.
Have you looked into how much it would be to get the DPF deleted from the ECU?
 

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There's a chap on here who offers DPF deletion for free - you'd first have to get access to a Galletto or other ECU flashing set-up to download your ECU file, email it to him and he can do the magic. You'd then have to dump the file back onto your ECU using Galletto or similar.

He replied to one of my threads, details here: http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/1291578-post4.html

It might be worth contacting him?

The Galletto costs about £25 to buy, so it's not megabucks.

Unless you wanted to retune the ECU completely and tweak other bits and pieces, you could take it to a modder and it'd set you back a couple of hundred maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There's a chap on here who offers DPF deletion for free - you'd first have to get access to a Galletto or other ECU flashing set-up to download your ECU file, email it to him and he can do the magic. You'd then have to dump the file back onto your ECU using Galletto or similar.

He replied to one of my threads, details here: http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/1291578-post4.html

It might be worth contacting him?

The Galletto costs about £25 to buy, so it's not megabucks.

Unless you wanted to retune the ECU completely and tweak other bits and pieces, you could take it to a modder and it'd set you back a couple of hundred maybe?
Might have a think about taking a core drill bit to the inside of the DPF and getting it mapped out rather than cleaning it, seems like it might be cheaper than replacing and more reliable than cleaning.

Just read your thread, did you try unplugging the MAF yet? I have exactly the same issues as you have in terms of terrible acceleration and pull up hills. These days my DPF is definitely clogged up but there was a time when I had the same performance symptoms as now but unplugging the MAF would restore the car to its former glory. I replaced the MAF to no avail so I suspect that the EGR valve is not functioning correctly, as this is also controlled by the MAF. Unfortunately unplugging the MAF no longer solves my issues but once the DPF is sorted I will be blanking off the EGR by unplugging the vacuum pipe.

In short, if I was you I would unplug the electrical connector to the MAF and see if your car performs much better. There is nothing to lose, I drove the car for ages with it unplugged and it was fine.
 

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I took the MAF out of the car, and gave it a good soaking in a solvent cleaner spray - it was filthy inside. I put the MAF back in and it seemed to have done the trick. The turbo came back to life and hills aren't a problem any longer. I occasionally get the engine management light coming on, but I think this is down to me tinkering with bits and pieces and the ECU not being totally happy with what I've done.

I'm going to try the golf tee in the vacuum hose trick on the EGR - cleaner air into the engine must mean that there's fewer DPF issues down the line.

And if the DPF is blocked, there could be a bit of blow-back into the turbo, which would result in poor performance.

It's worth putting a new air filter in too - I've even read that renewing the pollen filter makes a difference.
 

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I have just remapped my ecu with a dpf delete but I still keep getting a fault code p1447 filter holed. Also I read to disconnect temp sensor and differential pressure sensor but then I still get fault code and limp mode it's 2.0 hdi 110. Any ideas?
 

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Did you do mod manually or use ECUsafe or similar as it has not been done correctly hence trouble codes.

If you did manually did you double check MAP addresses as they change with software version.
 

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I took a flash with mpps sent it to a guy on eBay who said he's done a dpf delete and remap. I checksummed the file then rewrote to ecu. I drilled the dpf and cat before remapping but cancelled the fault codes using Delphi by telling it I had replaced it but even after I'm still getting the dpf holed fault codes and also if I unplug pressure sensor behind battery I get an STI pollution fault on that too. Do you think faulty remap?
 

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Even anti pollution fault. Not STI ha. Also the fault codes once off only come back on after driving for a few miles but then stay on until cancelled again.
 

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Send me a copy of the file by PM or similar and I am happy to have a quick look and comment on quality of delete and remap etc
 
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