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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

So just a quick bit of advice really. I have a 2007, 307cc. Ive had a roof issue since late last year. Obviously with the recent good weather I have been thinking about putting the roof down but sadly at the minute the roof is non-functional. The problem I have is that with a working roof I have a decent car that runs well and is worth some money. Without a working roof I have a car that is worth nothing and my only option would be to run it into the ground as I cant afford to replace it.

So after weighing up my options, local mechanics don't have the software to diagnose the fault. Peugeot are £95 per hour for a diagnostic which may not even find the fault. So Ive decided to purchase my own equipment and give it a bash myself. I have read in places that (this forum for one) that the software may struggle with some 307's and obviously don't want to waste money. Ive found this on ebay, it sounds like it will do the job. anyone else agree/disagree with this? Oh I'm on windows 10 if that helps.

FULL CHIP-REV. C LEXIA 3 Diagnostic Interface for Citroen Peugeot, DIAGBOX 7.83

Cheers
 

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Yes that will work but to be honest the roof system is not that complicated what happens when you try to put the roof down ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes that will work but to be honest the roof system is not that complicated what happens when you try to put the roof down ?
Hi,

Thanks for the reply. Nothing happens apart from I just hear 1 audible beep.

The issue goes back to late last summer. I had been using the roof with no problems. One day I was putting it up when I arrived home and my finger slipped from the button mid cycle. After that it would not move in either direction. I am assuming that one of the micro-switches is stuck in the wrong direction (although that's just a wild guess).

Ive tried the obvious things like checking the fuse etc but don't want to go hunting for switches until I identify the problem. I did notice when manually putting it up that the allen bolt in the roof has been well butchered which makes me think it has had this problem long before I bought the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got to say £95 per hour is scandalous.

Hope you can sort it yourself.
Just a bit yeah! They said its just there standard rate. If I knew they could do it within the hour and identify the fault id probably tell them to crack on. What I don't want to happen though is they spend 3 hours looking at it only to tell me they couldn't find a fault!
 

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And that is exactly what would happen :)

Is the front of the roof fully locked as if its not the roof wont function as it looks for locked position signal before it even opens the bootlid

It takes quite a bit of effort to fully lock it.
 

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And that is exactly what would happen :)

Is the front of the roof fully locked as if its not the roof wont function as it looks for locked position signal before it even opens the bootlid

It takes quite a bit of effort to fully lock it.
yeah, I may not be a whizz with a spanner but I know my around the net. Ive read enough on this forum to draw that conclusion :lol:

I'm fairly confident that it is fully locked but as I said the nut has been quite butchered in the past so it was difficult to get a decent purchase on it. I will have a look at it again though to make sure. I haven't noticed any issues with leakage over the winter though. If it wasn't fully locked wouldn't water find a way in? (I don't know, just surmising).
 

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No it is not to stop leakage it needs to be fully locked to hit the 2 microswitches that tell the ecu it is closed if it does not know its closed it wont start the opening process.

You can pull the headling down to see if they are being operated I have never had any real problems with these roofs my cousin has had 1 for over 10 years and until recently it was up and down like a whores knickers without issue :)

1 of the release cables snapped in the roof and since we replaced that it occasionally fails to go back up properly but it still works he knows how to get round the issue if it happens so no big deal.
 

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No it is not to stop leakage it needs to be fully locked to hit the 2 microswitches that tell the ecu it is closed if it does not know its closed it wont start the opening process.

You can pull the headling down to see if they are being operated I have never had any real problems with these roofs my cousin has had 1 for over 10 years and until recently it was up and down like a whores knickers without issue :)

1 of the release cables snapped in the roof and since we replaced that it occasionally fails to go back up properly but it still works he knows how to get round the issue if it happens so no big deal.
Ok thanks. Looks like I have myself a job for bank holiday Monday then. So take headlining off and try to operate the roof via the switch? Will it be obvious if they aren't locked in place?
 

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The hole you use the allen key in turns a cam attached to a ram the ram is what normally opens and closes the catches.

This mechanism has a rod going to the catches at each side the microswitches are on the catches the cables go to the release for the rear window and it all needs to work in sync.

The fact that your bootlid does not even open makes me think the roof is not fully closed as normally what happens is the bootlid hinges up and then the system stops as the front catches get stuck and the small ram does not have enough force to release them this is by far the most common issue and it is purely down to lack of use and the catches getting stiff in these cases i just use the allen key to help the ram along the roof then opens.

If you get your roof open get some spray grease and coat the catches and pivots with it before refitting the headlining.

Sticky catches and leaking rear pipes are the 2 most common issues on these.

After that i would say operator errors :)

only very occasionally is it a switch issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The hole you use the allen key in turns a cam attached to a ram the ram is what normally opens and closes the catches.

This mechanism has a rod going to the catches at each side the microswitches are on the catches the cables go to the release for the rear window and it all needs to work in sync.

The fact that your bootlid does not even open makes me think the roof is not fully closed as normally what happens is the bootlid hinges up and then the system stops as the front catches get stuck and the small ram does not have enough force to release them this is by far the most common issue and it is purely down to lack of use and the catches getting stiff in these cases i just use the allen key to help the ram along the roof then opens.

If you get your roof open get some spray grease and coat the catches and pivots with it before refitting the headlining.

Sticky catches and leaking rear pipes are the 2 most common issues on these.

After that i would say operator errors :)

only very occasionally is it a switch issue.
Ok cheers mate, Ive got plenty to work with there. Ill just work my way through that list and with any luck have it sorted. I was just going to dive straight in at switches but it sounds like its definitely worth checking out these other issues first. I just assumed that because the original fault occurred mid cycle that the cause must have been one of the switches.
 

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Is there any real difference (worth paying more) between diagbox v 7.83, v 7.82, v 7.65 etc?
Also: is it possible to copy the disc and load it from USB or something like that? Most/all sellers offer CD/DVD while my laptop does not have disc option...
Thanks
 
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