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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there are a section on this forum for detailing and gadgets (mostly filled with questions about gadgets), but there are some basic questions about if you can wash the 3008 with pressure washer and so on. Because of that, I got an idea about a thread with user generated tips and tricks on how to have a clean and tidy car.

There are no definite answer to how you should detail a car, but I'm sure it's interesting for more than me to see how other people wash and detail their cars. Hopefully we can learn from each other and inspire new users in this thread.

I can start with the Wash & Wax I did this weekend. It's shortened a bit to make it relevant (I hope), and then translated to English from a Norwegian detailing forum I follow. Feel free to ask if anything is out of context or lost in translation. Also, because of limitations on this forum, I'm not allowed to have each image in full screen. Nevertheless, I hope a collage (or 4) will help.


______________________________________


Day 1.
I started with the chemicals after work on Friday. They will stain the paint if they dry, so I like to use them during the evening when it's not that hot outside (and I can work in the shadow). The car had been used to and from work the entire week (around 600 km) with rain some of the days. It wasn't that much dirt on it and most of it could be washed off with a pressure washer.


I started with Prick Bort (a product for removing tarmac on cars) when the car was still dry and let it work for about 5-10 minutes. It didn't find anything on the car, so I rinsed the car and applied Korrosol (a product for removing iron on cars). That was also left to work for 5-10 minutes. Korrosol found a little bit on the back of the car and a couple other places (you can barely see the purple stripes on the collage above), but surprisingly enough the car was very clean. After rinsing off Korrosol, I applied Surfex HD (a degreaser) in a 1:5 mix (1 part Surfex HD and 5 parts water). I left it on the paint for about 5 minutes before I covered the entire car in Chemical Guys Mr. Pink using a foam cannon. The reason I used foam on the car was to give the degreaser more time on the car (it dries a bit too fast without the foam). The water was now laying flat on the car (no beading or sheeting) and the car was ready for a proper hand wash.

Day 2.
The next day I moved the car to another place where I could park the car in a garage after the hand wash was done. The sun was out and boiling both me and the equipment, so the water from the pressure washer was actually never cold.

I started the day with cooling down the panels on the car with the pressure washer. I then added a product called RainX to all the windows, outside mirrors and the sunroof. I was a bit worried about the sun, because it says flammable(!) on the can. Luckily my brand new car did not catch on fire, and the water was beading on the windows after the treatment.

After applying RainX, I foamed the car again, rinsed and started hand washing the exterior with a 20-litre bucket of water and Chemical Guys Mr. Pink (this had to be filled twice during the hand wash). It's important to remember to keep rinsing the car when washing the car in direct sunlight, because water and soap will stain the paint if it's left to dry on the paint. In other words, I rinsed the entire car after almost every panel I washed. As you can see on the collage above, the white wash mitt was still white after I had cleaned the entire car. In other words, I did not drag dirt around the car when I washed it. I then used a different wash mitt to clean the tires and rims. After the entire exterior and inside of the door panels was washed, I used two micro fibre cloths to dry the car and left it in the garage until the next day.

Day 3.
The last day was spent inside the garage on protecting the paint again. Since I only work with a steady hand, it's not necessary to mask all plastic parts and windows, but I did mask out on some strategic places.

I startet with Swissvax Cleaner Fluid Regular on the roof, but after I had spent 4 micro fibre cloths trying to remove static fluff from the roof I thought "f*** it, I'll go straight to the protection".

The protection this time was PolishAngel Master Sealant. A product I did not have a lot of experience with from the past, but I had used it once on my 108. Master Sealant is very easy to work with! I applied PA Master Sealant on all the painted surfaces on the car, but I also tried to use it on the chrome parts of the 3008. The reason is that the GT-Line have both matte and shiny chrome details, and I did not want to use a chrome polish on the matte chrome. However, next time I think I'll use Swissvax chrome polish on the shiny chrome details. Anyway, Master Sealant is supposed to stay on the car for at least 15 minutes before you can take it off. After buffing the Master Sealant off, I left it hardening on the surface for 2 hours while I went for a snack. After the break, I applied a new layer of Master Sealant and buffed it off after another 15 minutes.

While the second layer of Master Sealant was hardening, I applied Swissvax Protection Matt on a pad and tried to add it on all the plastic parts around the car. However, it seems that the plastic did not need it at this time, because it was beading on the surface of the plastic. Because of that, I took a cotton cloth and wiped it off again.

What I did not do this time: polish the entire car (only the roof, remember), add a new layer of tire dressing and polishing the chrome parts again with chrome polish.

In total, I spent somewhere around 12 hours (not including breaks, tidying and drying).



That's it, and I look forward to see how you detail your car [smileyface with thumbs up that are not allowed, because the forum have a 4 image limit and includes smileys as images for some weird reason]
 

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I'm impressed!

So that's what mine COULD look like if I spent 10 to 11 extra hours working on it and you don't even mention vacuum cleaning the inside!

I've bought a couple of special buckets and have a snow foam gun on order so have made a start and hope to pay a little bit more attention to this car than my previous ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm impressed!

So that's what mine COULD look like if I spent 10 to 11 extra hours working on it and you don't even mention vacuum cleaning the inside!

I've bought a couple of special buckets and have a snow foam gun on order so have made a start and hope to pay a little bit more attention to this car than my previous ones.
:lol: I like to spend time detailing my car. I guess it's possible to shorten the time a lot :)

By the way, I started with the same kit that you have today. Suddenly your money is gone and you have the house full of detailing products :p
 

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Whoa, that's quite some dedication! And btw, that car looks nice in that colour!

I did the degreasing + fallout remover thing on day 1 when I got the car, washed with Dodo Juice Born to be Mild and then applied Soft99 Fusso Coat (synthetic sealant, applied like a wax) all over.

The Fusso should last very well on the paint. I'll try to apply it twice a year and see if that's often enough. Of course, when reapplying, the degreaser (solvent-based prewash) and the fallout remover should be applied again. I haven't gotten into using a clay bar yet though.

Now to wash the car I just spray snow foam with the lance (best purchase I made when it came to car washing). I use Bilt Hamber Autofoam (second best purchase). After that the car looks clean and actually I stop here if the car wasn't really dirty! However, normally I continue with two bucket method and the Dodo Juice Born to be Mild (recommend that stuff, the bottle last ages - 1:800 mixing ratio). Dry the car with some microfiber drying towels and apply Soft99 Fusso Quick Detailer to touch up the Fusso coat.

I've got some specialized products for bug and tar removal, glass cleaning, wheel cleaning, interior cleaning and treatment, etc. as well, but those are used depending on the need. I went a bit overboard with the detailing products while waiting for the 3008 to arrive... :D

I should perform a proper cleaning still and apply Dodo Juice Supernatural Satin Trim sealant on all of those black plastic parts...

Anyway, 1 month with the Fusso and super happy with it.

Maybe we can collect here some recommendations about products that we like. I can certainly recommend these in addition to a pressure washer and a compatible €20 foam lance from eBay:

- wax-safe prewash (snow foam): Bilt Hamber Autofoam
- wax-safe car shampoo: Dodo Juice Born to be Mild
- last step product (wax, sealant, whatnot): Soft99 Fusso Coat

The other products I've been using I've found good, but there are probably others equally good...
 

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My first tip is to pick yourself up a set of detailing brushes and if you use a foam then while the foam is doing its thing go around with the detailing brushes and brush all the nooks and crannies like around lights, window trims, front grille, inside of fuel filler cap and so on. It just helps with a more thorough clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Whoa, that's quite some dedication! And btw, that car looks nice in that colour!

I did the degreasing + fallout remover thing on day 1 when I got the car, washed with Dodo Juice Born to be Mild and then applied Soft99 Fusso Coat (synthetic sealant, applied like a wax) all over.

The Fusso should last very well on the paint. I'll try to apply it twice a year and see if that's often enough. Of course, when reapplying, the degreaser (solvent-based prewash) and the fallout remover should be applied again. I haven't gotten into using a clay bar yet though.

Now to wash the car I just spray snow foam with the lance (best purchase I made when it came to car washing). I use Bilt Hamber Autofoam (second best purchase). After that the car looks clean and actually I stop here if the car wasn't really dirty! However, normally I continue with two bucket method and the Dodo Juice Born to be Mild (recommend that stuff, the bottle last ages - 1:800 mixing ratio). Dry the car with some microfiber drying towels and apply Soft99 Fusso Quick Detailer to touch up the Fusso coat.

I've got some specialized products for bug and tar removal, glass cleaning, wheel cleaning, interior cleaning and treatment, etc. as well, but those are used depending on the need. I went a bit overboard with the detailing products while waiting for the 3008 to arrive... :D

I should perform a proper cleaning still and apply Dodo Juice Supernatural Satin Trim sealant on all of those black plastic parts...

Anyway, 1 month with the Fusso and super happy with it.

Maybe we can collect here some recommendations about products that we like. I can certainly recommend these in addition to a pressure washer and a compatible €20 foam lance from eBay:

- wax-safe prewash (snow foam): Bilt Hamber Autofoam
- wax-safe car shampoo: Dodo Juice Born to be Mild
- last step product (wax, sealant, whatnot): Soft99 Fusso Coat

The other products I've been using I've found good, but there are probably others equally good...
Likewise! Quality products you recommend :)

Do you know what mix you use with Autofoam? I have wanted to try it myself, but I have to finish the products I have first.
 

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Do you know what mix you use with Autofoam? I have wanted to try it myself, but I have to finish the products I have first.
The mix I adjust "with a gut feeling" using the lance. Basically I just adjust the mix until I get a nice foam. However, that's not the right way to do it, of course... Here's the instruction from the company themselves:

'The dilution will need to be worked out for your equipment - you MUST get 4-5% of Autofoam hitting the panel so this will be dependent on the flow rate of equipment . Fill your lance with plain water and then discharge into a container - you can then measure the rate the lance is feeding into the water stream. For example if the lance bottle holds 1 litre and was emptied by discharging, measure the contents of the container you discharged into - if you get 10 litres your bottle is mixing a 10% ratio so you would then know to mix Autofoam 50/50 in your bottle to make 5% at panel.'

I'll promise I'll do that the next time. :lol: Autofoam is not the foamiest product there is, but they say that's specifically made to be like that in order to transport dirt out from the surface.
 

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I know there are a section on this forum for detailing and gadgets (mostly filled with questions about gadgets), but there are some basic questions about if you can wash the 3008 with pressure washer and so on. Because of that, I got an idea about a thread with user generated tips and tricks on how to have a clean and tidy car.

There are no definite answer to how you should detail a car, but I'm sure it's interesting for more than me to see how other people wash and detail their cars. Hopefully we can learn from each other and inspire new users in this thread.

I can start with the Wash & Wax I did this weekend. It's shortened a bit to make it relevant (I hope), and then translated to English from a Norwegian detailing forum I follow. Feel free to ask if anything is out of context or lost in translation. Also, because of limitations on this forum, I'm not allowed to have each image in full screen. Nevertheless, I hope a collage (or 4) will help.


______________________________________


Day 1.
I started with the chemicals after work on Friday. They will stain the paint if they dry, so I like to use them during the evening when it's not that hot outside (and I can work in the shadow). The car had been used to and from work the entire week (around 600 km) with rain some of the days. It wasn't that much dirt on it and most of it could be washed off with a pressure washer.


I started with Prick Bort (a product for removing tarmac on cars) when the car was still dry and let it work for about 5-10 minutes. It didn't find anything on the car, so I rinsed the car and applied Korrosol (a product for removing iron on cars). That was also left to work for 5-10 minutes. Korrosol found a little bit on the back of the car and a couple other places (you can barely see the purple stripes on the collage above), but surprisingly enough the car was very clean. After rinsing off Korrosol, I applied Surfex HD (a degreaser) in a 1:5 mix (1 part Surfex HD and 5 parts water). I left it on the paint for about 5 minutes before I covered the entire car in Chemical Guys Mr. Pink using a foam cannon. The reason I used foam on the car was to give the degreaser more time on the car (it dries a bit too fast without the foam). The water was now laying flat on the car (no beading or sheeting) and the car was ready for a proper hand wash.

Day 2.
The next day I moved the car to another place where I could park the car in a garage after the hand wash was done. The sun was out and boiling both me and the equipment, so the water from the pressure washer was actually never cold.

I started the day with cooling down the panels on the car with the pressure washer. I then added a product called RainX to all the windows, outside mirrors and the sunroof. I was a bit worried about the sun, because it says flammable(!) on the can. Luckily my brand new car did not catch on fire, and the water was beading on the windows after the treatment.

After applying RainX, I foamed the car again, rinsed and started hand washing the exterior with a 20-litre bucket of water and Chemical Guys Mr. Pink (this had to be filled twice during the hand wash). It's important to remember to keep rinsing the car when washing the car in direct sunlight, because water and soap will stain the paint if it's left to dry on the paint. In other words, I rinsed the entire car after almost every panel I washed. As you can see on the collage above, the white wash mitt was still white after I had cleaned the entire car. In other words, I did not drag dirt around the car when I washed it. I then used a different wash mitt to clean the tires and rims. After the entire exterior and inside of the door panels was washed, I used two micro fibre cloths to dry the car and left it in the garage until the next day.

Day 3.
The last day was spent inside the garage on protecting the paint again. Since I only work with a steady hand, it's not necessary to mask all plastic parts and windows, but I did mask out on some strategic places.

I startet with Swissvax Cleaner Fluid Regular on the roof, but after I had spent 4 micro fibre cloths trying to remove static fluff from the roof I thought "f*** it, I'll go straight to the protection".

The protection this time was PolishAngel Master Sealant. A product I did not have a lot of experience with from the past, but I had used it once on my 108. Master Sealant is very easy to work with! I applied PA Master Sealant on all the painted surfaces on the car, but I also tried to use it on the chrome parts of the 3008. The reason is that the GT-Line have both matte and shiny chrome details, and I did not want to use a chrome polish on the matte chrome. However, next time I think I'll use Swissvax chrome polish on the shiny chrome details. Anyway, Master Sealant is supposed to stay on the car for at least 15 minutes before you can take it off. After buffing the Master Sealant off, I left it hardening on the surface for 2 hours while I went for a snack. After the break, I applied a new layer of Master Sealant and buffed it off after another 15 minutes.

While the second layer of Master Sealant was hardening, I applied Swissvax Protection Matt on a pad and tried to add it on all the plastic parts around the car. However, it seems that the plastic did not need it at this time, because it was beading on the surface of the plastic. Because of that, I took a cotton cloth and wiped it off again.

What I did not do this time: polish the entire car (only the roof, remember), add a new layer of tire dressing and polishing the chrome parts again with chrome polish.

In total, I spent somewhere around 12 hours (not including breaks, tidying and drying).



That's it, and I look forward to see how you detail your car [smileyface with thumbs up that are not allowed, because the forum have a 4 image limit and includes smileys as images for some weird reason]
This would be worth a trip over to Norway but only if you would detail my car. LOL
 

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Wow!! I wish I had the time. Does look nice.
I'm with Blaugrana314, in that I could travel over to Norway. You may have yourself a lucrative business opportunity there :thumb:

Grumpy
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just thought of a tip I forgot to include in the other post. I remember that there once were a discussion about using leaf blowers to dry the car because some had troubles with water lines.

Instead of blowing dirt all over the car, try to use one dry micro fibre towel to dry the car, then use another (dry) micro fibre towel to dry the car again. Spend some time around the chrome belt around the windows, under the black part on the boot and so on with the last towel. If you take the last micro fibre towel and push up against the small gaps like I mentioned, you should have close to zero water lines :thumb:
 

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I just washed the car and it was such a pleasure again. The Fusso coat is ridiculously water repellent and washing the car was done in no time. Seriously people, if you're washing your car yourself, do a favor and invest in proper equipment and chemicals. Washing the car has turned from a chore to something I actually look forward to!

Here's a small shopping list with the things that just are needed and direct links to Amazon.co.uk (most of you folks seem to be in UK). No need to follow my suggestions, there are many substitutes for any of the products below - I just have found the following good for my use, but there are probably as many opinions as there are car washers!

The below procedure is a bit simplified version for those who are not as dedicated as Agmuns above is! I've left out steps like using a fallout remover (removing small iron particles from the paint) and a clay bar, but if you want to do it really properly, it makes sense to read about those as well and use them before waxing. But you can also do damage to the paint with a clay bar, so I'd recommend starting without one at first...

PRESSURE WASHER

Pressure washer: Get a cheap Kärcher if you don't need it for anything else. I've got a K4, but K2 will be enough I'm pretty sure. Don't bother with the extra attachments, you're not going to use them anyway. http://amzn.to/2vZBlE9
Foam lance: This is an attachment that fits your pressure washer and is used to spread the snow foam on the car (prewash). If it's a Kärcher, then this one would do: http://amzn.to/2wEjPmc - You can save some by ordering a cheap Chinese one from Aliexpress or ebay. I've got one - they work too.

CHEMICALS

Snow foam: Bilt Hamber Autofoam is superb. And it's made in UK I believe. :) http://amzn.to/2wT4q0w
Degreaser: Before applying was, you need to make sure there's no old wax or other chemicals on the surface. Degreaser takes care of them. Pretty much anything will do, Bilt Hamber Surfex HD seems popular. http://amzn.to/2wEaHOe
Car Shampoo: This is the car shampoo that won't damage your wax coat. Dodo Juice Born to be Mild is popular and lasts forever (2 teaspoons into 8 liters of water!): http://amzn.to/2vsnzZc
Wax/Sealant: I'm in love with Fusso Coat, but there are millions of good products: http://amzn.to/2vPm7Bl
IPA: Isopropanyl is handy for getting absolutely everything out from the panel. Not 100% necessary, but doesn't cost much: http://amzn.to/2uAR4Fr
The above is probably bare minimum. You could add fall out remover, wheel cleaners, tar and bug remover, glass cleaner etc. but this will already be a very good start.

TOOLS

Car wash mitt: You spread the car shampoo with a wash mitt after the snowfoam. Get either a really nice lamb mitt, or a cheap microfiber one (I've got 2, one for painted surfaces and another one for bumpers, tires, etc. helps avoiding scratches): http://amzn.to/2vZj61S
Grit guard: You've got buckets right? Buy a grit guard for at least one of them, preferably 2: http://amzn.to/2vwFtZu
Buffing towel: Get one microfiber towel for buffing, do not use it for anything else: http://amzn.to/2vZwMts
Drying towel: Buy at least 2 drying towels, I find I need three with the 3008. These are good and pricey: http://amzn.to/2vZpHJJ probably something like this will do: http://amzn.to/2vZ7SKC

------

Ok, I just spent 200 pounds for all that stuff, but what should I do with it?

Wash and wax (do this 2-3 times per year):

- rinse the car with the pressure washer
- make a suitable mix of the degreaser and spray it all over the car
- wait a while and rinse
- fill one bucket with water and other with car shampoo, put the grit guard to the one with plain water (or both)
- dip the wash mitt in the car shampoo, wash a panel, rinse in the water bucket
- repeat until whole car is done
- rinse
- dry the car carefully with the drying towels, don't rub too much
- spray IPA on the painted surface and wipe off immediately (it evaporates quickly)
- apply wax/sealant, panel per panel. The Fusso comes with an applicator, use that. There's a youtube video to show how to use the sealant.
* IMPORTANT: apply a very thin coat - no need to leave the whole panel white
* NOTE: try to avoid putting it on the rubber and black plastic parts, it'll leave white marks for a couple of weeks otherwise! Use masking tape as needed (I didn't).
- wait until the sealant is dry and use your buffing towel to buff off each surface. The Fusso left a bit greasy coat on the shiny surfaces, but after the next wash they were ok.
- now you have a nice and shiny car!

Extra steps (the shopping list didn't include these chemicals):

- use a fallout remover to clean any iron particles from the paint (after degreaser)
- use a car wheel cleaner (such as Bilt Hamber Autowheel) and a brush to clean the brake dust out from the wheels.
- use bug and tar remover to get those pesky dead insects out from the front of the car (I use this before car shampoo)

Normal car wash (weekly/monthly/daily)

- rinse the car with the pressure washer
- put snow foam into the lance and spray all over your car
- wait a while and rinse (car is now 95% clean)
- fill one bucket with water and other with car shampoo, put the grit guard to the one with plain water (or both)
- dip the wash mitt in the car shampoo, wash a panel, rinse in the water bucket (use another mitt for parts near the ground)
- repeat until whole car is done
- rinse
- dry the car carefully with the drying towels, don't rub too much

Extra steps (the shopping list didn't include these chemicals):

- use bug and tar remover to get those pesky dead insects out from the front of the car (I use this before car shampoo)
- add tyre shine to the tires

I find I manage to do the normal wash in less than an hour and the car shines again.

And as always, not recommended to do any of this in direct sunlight or on a very hot day.
 

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-apply wax/sealant, panel per panel.
* NOTE: try to avoid putting it on the rubber and black plastic parts, it'll leave white marks for a couple of weeks otherwise! Use masking tape as needed (I didn't).
If you get wax/sealant on the black plastic the white marks can last ages and be difficult to remove, I found a good tip on YouTube that said to use a ordinary pencil erasure on it - and it works :)
 

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And he goes on and on and on and on
Wake me up when these guys finish talking .... and they go on and on and on and on .............

(Did anyone actually read all the claptrap in both posts) yawnnnnmmm
If this does not interest you then why bother making a negative comment?
All you had to do was move on over to the next topic.
The comments you made are not only non-productive but more important they are dismissive and abrasive which on the whole is basically an attack against another member.
 

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Washed the car today - interesting that the rear centre is becoming slightly off-white with contamination. Used Autoglym intense tar remover but I think I may get either Trix or Iron-x + Tar-x. Also considering Collinite 476 Wax.

Wash before winter will then be a complete decontamination, clay, super resin polish then after that collinite. Literally the wax etc will remain until next year! I'd also take the wheels off and then decontaminate, wash and give it some poorboy's high temp wax.

Then the car should then be clean-easy over the winter.

I may have to look at stone chip repair as I can see a couple of marks that may need attention.

Hehe used wonder wheels active on the Mrs' car wheels for the first time.. now they're cleaner than they've ever been lol.
 

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BEARDSY?! If the topic didn?t interest me do you think I would of opened up the thread ? Just too much boring details and on and on, and for you to comment back too ...... boring !
I try not to get involved in any discourse but do feel you are coming over as boring yourself, Joncot. This is the problem with so many forums. Banter is one thing but being negative and almost troll like is not good for any of us. I am sure you have your reasons for feeling so bored but you are in danger of becoming boring yourself. We all just want to get on with enjoying the benefits of any advice offered on here. Oops, banging on a bit and becoming boring :lol:
I do feel that Beards comments were fair, but that's only my opinion.
Hope you continue to contribute but try a little less negativity, please :thumb:
Besides, I believe Agmuns opened the thread.
 
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