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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi people,

2002 2.0 HDI EDC15C2
Recently DPF-offed
Use EGR3 via air duct a few days ago (avoided MAF) car ran fine afterwards.
Added Forte diesel treatment to full tank a few days ago, car fine until now.

When I started car this morning (5am -4 degrees C) the engine was making the whole car shake, same this afternoon but slightly worse, this evening the car feels like it will shake to pieces!!

Even after warming up fully there is significant shake at idle, feels like its about to cut out all the time. 1500rpm upwards it smooths out but still feels like it's 'missing' and has low power. Having to keep revs up at junctions in case it stalls.

Fault codes with descriptions in attached pics, also added some measurements from engine ecu. First three faults were already there, bottom two are new. After clearing faults and starting/revving car (not driving) the faults did not re-appear.

EGR Throttle electrovalve OCR was a constant 95% before, it changes now though (due to EGR3 perhaps?)

Car had a new Original Siemens MAF a week or so ago Car ran fine after installing it, until now of course.

I also noticed 3rd piston deactivation kicks in at about 1200rpm now, before today it only happened at much higher revs.

I am desperate to get this car working asap (at least driveable) so all suggestions as to what I should check first are most welcome. I have PP, tools and a multimeter at least :)

Thanks!
Steve

EDIT: Forgot to mention, lots of white smoke from exhaust when car was idling, even after ten minutes or so. Never noticed it once driving.








 

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Piston Slap possibly

When cold the engine will get progressively worse. As the engine gets hotter say after ideling for about 5 minutes the noise and shaking will be greatly reduced.

If it is piston slap I wouldn't drive the car unless you want to risk scrapping the engine.
 
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Piston Slap possibly

When cold the engine will get progressively worse. As the engine gets hotter say after ideling for about 5 minutes the noise and shaking will be greatly reduced.

If it is piston slap I wouldn't drive the car unless you want to risk scrapping the engine.
You really have to do some research. How do you reckon its piston slap?
 
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Your turbo actual reading in relation to referance is too low. Give the engine a rev, the two readings should pretty much match each other.
First of all i'd be checking the vacuum circuit. Swop the turbo regulation electro valve with another one ie the egr one (they are interchangeable)
These electro valves give a bit of bother.
I'm ignoring the exhaust temp faults as they don't count as you've removed the particle filter.

I'd be confident enough in saying the turbo solenoid electro valve is the problem as long as wiring and vac piping is ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you again David.
Would the turbo solenoid cause these problems when idling? I (probably incorrectly) assumed the faulty valve would only make a difference at higher revs when I usually feel the turbo kick in.

Since changing the glow plugs the idle has been fairly smooth but not perfect.
Yesterday morning was -4 deg C, 3 degrees colder than any other day this year and it was that morning that it first got so bad. You think the cold weather is just a coincidence?

Thanks again, I will swap out the solenoids tomorrow and get a new one if needed.

Steve
 
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Yes i reckon its a coincidence. Wouldn't be hugely worried about that.
Try valves and go from there.
The turbo elec valve is failry low down on front of engine on your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Will check tomorrow thanks.

Don't suppose you know which one is the turbo valve?
I have four on the front of engine leaning over front bumper I see two on the right, one beside the other and two on the left lower down, kind of one above the other.
 
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Will check tomorrow thanks.

Don't suppose you know which one is the turbo valve?
I have four on the front of engine leaning over front bumper I see two on the right, one beside the other and two on the left lower down, kind of one above the other.
The one on the very bottom is the turbo reg valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Can someone please check something for me?

I checked my turbo solenoid (the one at the very bottom on the front of the engine) and found that the wires to the plug had snapped and been very badly repaired at some point.
I wish to know which way around the wires should be in case it was put on wrong during the last fix/bodge.

I see a grey wire and a lighter colour wire coming from the loom. Should the grey wire be closest to the engine or the radiator when looking at the plug from above? Or does it not even matter?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Fixed the faulty wiring on the turbo solenoid and fitted a brand new pierburg solenoid from Peugeot but unfortunately it has made no difference whatsoever to the turbo pressure, its still very low and the idling and acceleration still very rough.

Tomorrow I will check the wiring back to the ECU, replace each of the remaining 3 solenoids with a known good one in turn to see if anything changes and double check all of the vacuum pipes.

If none of that helps, what's next?
I was thinking I should strip off the EGR, water exchanger, turbo?, inlet manifold and give it all a good clean.
Do this sound right or am I missing something obvious and perhaps easier?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Can anyone tell me what voltage to expect at idle from the live going into the turbo solenoid? I read it yesterday and if I remember correctly it was around 4.x volts.

At idle I have no boost at all, reference is around 1200 and measured value is 988mbars (same as atmospheric pressure).
I checked all the vacuum lines I could easily get to and they seem good, I even led under the car and blew/sucked on the line going to the turbo and it seemed to hold vac with no drop (stayed stuck to me tongue).

I'm thinking it has to one of three things...
1. Incorrect control by ECU (ground control).
2. Wastegate stuck (this is attached to or part of the turbo right?)
3. Totally screwed turbo, but I doubt this as it suddenly stopped rather than losing power over time.

The more I think about it, shouldn't the live to the solenoid be a constant battery voltage? The ECU then controls the solenoid by altering the ground? Perhaps a bad earth/rotten wire could be the cause?

Help please!
 
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