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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi!

i have the craziest problem.
The car crank but does not start.
I got the fault codes p0336 and p1157.
The car is a 307 2.0 2006

what i done:
-Changed camshaft sensor
-Changed crankshaft sensor
-Changed cables and plug to crankshaft sensor(2.2 volt to sensor from ECU is it correct voltage?)
-No RPM showing
-Checked ground and its good
-Did the bip test and it works well
-fuel pump does work
-checked the ignition coil (4 volt in all 4 when cranking)
-economy mode with fully charged battery

help me guys! What do i do next?
Check the timingbelt?
 

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Battery status. Is it a good known battery? Get it load tested to confirm as these cars are very sensitive to battery condition. You need to confirm not only its voltage but its amperage ability which the load test will show.What is the historyof the car? Has it been serviced recently etc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Battery status. Is it a good known battery? Get it load tested to confirm as these cars are very sensitive to battery condition. You need to confirm not only its voltage but its amperage ability which the load test will show.What is the historyof the car? Has it been serviced recently etc?
The battery is not new, has been drained once so it could be weak.
Im gonna change to an new battery and try that.
The car last service is unknown, but the oil looks good and everything else.
The clutch was changed by previus owner thats where the problem came.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okey, now i tried a new batteri with no success. The strange thing is when i connect the sensor i get -0 volt.
Finger Computer hardware Gadget Audio equipment Motor vehicle
 

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Your tester is set to the 9v at the Bat position which is for torch batteries and the like. You need it to be set at the 20Vdc marker. What sensor are you meaning?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hello!

i tried one thing, i disconnected the camshaft sensor and did a new scan on the car. The crankshaft code p0336 was gone….
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hmm i did mesure the crankshaft sensor and it does get signal from the crankshaft(flywheel).

Im going crazy, is it the ECU?
 

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It sounds as though you are getting the correct voltage at the coil pack. There should only be one 12V line going to the coil pack. The coil pack is a wasted spark system so contains two coils and both coils are connected to the same 12V cable. The other ends of the coils are connected via a pair of cables to the ECU.

One warning about voltage measurements. Modern voltmeters have a very high impedance so if you have a poor connection the meter can still read 12V. You really need to test the voltage with a load connected e.g. a light bulb. It is quite common for there to be a fault in the fuse box relating to a relay connected to fuse 10. The coil pack usually gets its voltage supply from this fuse. The same fuse also supplies the oxygen sensors and injectors and I see you have an oxygen sensor fault code as well.

BTW I think you crankshaft sensor is the 2 pin type. These are just a coil with a magnet. You can check the coil of your old sensor for continuity using the ohms range on your multimeter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you for your answer and time!
Yes i got power to the coil pack, but no spark at the spark plug and thats strange?
The spark plugs looks and feel dry, no fuel to the cylinders.

I have checked every fuses on the fuse box in the engine room. Every fuse is good.

Yes i clear the codes everytime i change something or unplugging it. Still same wrong code p0336 and p1157. But when the car sits for i while i get also wrong codes p1158 and p0121 with the other codes.

i order lexia 3 yesterday, maybe i can get more information with correct scanner. Now i use universal obd scanner.

can the BSI have somthing to do with this?The only thing i have not controll the cables and fuses on is the BSI under the steering wheel

Gadget Material property Font Measuring instrument Auto part

Font Material property Gas Gadget Electric blue

Telephony Communication Device Red Gas Automated teller machine
 

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I think some is going wrong with the engine ECU and the Lexia 3 would help but have you seen this posting on the forum relating to a 307: 307 not starting . In that case the P0336 code was appearing. If there is something wrong with the crankshaft position data you are unlikely to get spark and fuel injection. Apparently the coil pack was causing the problem.

When you measured the coil pack you said you measured 4V at all four can you explain what you did?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes, i start to think is the ECU. I have read every post with wrong code p0336 on this forum even on Google. Nothing helps me with my problem or even simulair with my problem.

when i mesuring the coils i use my multimeter. Red cable in the coil and black cable on ground ”engine or battery -” the Setting on the multimeter is on 9v bat, and every coil shown 4 volt while cranking.

and the fuel rail do build up pressure while cranking.

another thing, when i disconnect the crankshaft sensor from the cables i hear a click sound from the trottle housing.
 

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I have attached a wiring diagram for a 307 with a 2l petrol engine. The important items are:
1135 coil pack
PFS1 engine fuse box
BSI1 BSI
1320 engine ECU

If you were measuring the voltage at the coil pack outputs to the spark plugs you were lucky you didn't blow your meter up. There should a high voltage there e.g. 1000V between outputs 1 & 4 or outputs 2 & 3. BTW the coil diagram suggest that you need two spark plugs connected to get a spark.

The ECU connects the cable 1151 and 1152 to ground via a pair of switches. When one of these switches open the coil generates a high voltage pulse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I really appreciate your time and help!

Oooh really? So it could almost be my death? My wife would kill me over again.. so i wont be measuring the coils again.

this switch have i never seen before, i thing i read about it in another problem with ”coil” on this forum. Do i have to follow those cables to check so this ”switch” is good? Or is there an easy way to find it?

And thank you again for the diagram! I Will use it well.
 

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I really appreciate your time and help!

Oooh really? So it could almost be my death? My wife would kill me over again.. so i wont be measuring the coils again.

this switch have i never seen before, i thing i read about it in another problem with ”coil” on this forum. Do i have to follow those cables to check so this ”switch” is good? Or is there an easy way to find it?

And thank you again for the diagram! I Will use it well.
The high voltage pulse is relatively low energy but not a nice thing to get in contact with.

The switches I mentioned are inside the engine ECU. They are most likely transistors.

If one of the coils in the coil pack had short circuited it would cause a lot of problems. It might be why the person in the old forum discussion found that changing coil pack solved his problem. One thing you could try is unplug the 4 pin plug from the coil pack, clear the codes and see what codes you get when crank the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The high voltage pulse is relatively low energy but not a nice thing to get in contact with.

The switches I mentioned are inside the engine ECU. They are most likely transistors.

If one of the coils in the coil pack had short circuited it would cause a lot of problems. It might be why the person in the old forum discussion found that changing coil pack solved his problem. One thing you could try is unplug the 4 pin plug from the coil pack, clear the codes and see what codes you get when crank the car.
I understand. And to fix that is out of my league.
But if i change ECU i also need to change my BSI and ignition key, maybe also program the BSI for my car with my electronics.

thanks, i will unplugg the coil pack and crank to se witch fault codes i get. I will be back with some answers..
 
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