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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hey All!

Cylinder head is off. That was a bit of an ordeal, one of the head bolted decided to let it's Torx feature go before coming out. Had to drill the top off it - these head bolts are pretty hard!

I grabbed a couple of pictures of the head mating surface, its pretty crappy. There is what appears to be corrosion through the water-channels, and some some marks/indentations/scoring around one of the piston liner marks of one cylinder. I'm wondering if this could be enough to allow a little bit of compression pressure into the water system?

Anyway, I have another head here that is much, much better condition. After I've cleaned all the shite out of the air inlets and valves, I'll be putting that back on.

Re-fitting will, as always, include complete new gasket/seal set, new head bolts, new injector studs. Its a big old job to pin "hopes" on, but I hope it works!
 

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You mentioned in your initial entry that you took the head off, cleaned it and then refitted it. Did you not see the defects that you are now reporting on? Anyway I would at least have the head skimmed to ensure the thing is flat along with cleaned and checked for flatness block. New head gasket thick enough to compensate for skimming and new head bolts too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Very good question, to which I dont really have an answer. Not sure how I didnt notice this pitting, but I didnt. It even correlates with where the cracks were in the liner. What can I say; I'm nob-head! In my defence, not that it excuses it, I did have Covid and was feeling rubbish. Probably should have taken the day off.

Anyway, onwards. Some more bits to clean and inspect before looking at getting anything back together. A bit less haste and more speed this time!
 

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Fair do. I would set the pistons at the lowast point and mic/vernier the boresfor both size and ovality also checking for signs of damage that can be caused by broken piston rings. It is an opportunity to get as much info on the state of the block before throwing more money at it!
 

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Fair do. I would set the pistons at the lowast point and mic/vernier the boresfor both size and ovality also checking for signs of damage that can be caused by broken piston rings. It is an opportunity to get as much info on the state of the block before throwing more money at it!
I don't really follow what you are trying to communicate to the OP.

The issues I have with your statement are as follows.

(1) You can't use a typical micrometer (mic) to measure a bore at all, you would need an Inside Micrometer Set and the skill to use it (point3) and Verniers would only measure about 15-25mm of the bores top at best, and would not trust any reading you could get from it. Typically, I would want to use a decent Dial Bore Gauge Set.
(2) Is that what you mean, using a type of Cylinder Gauge ?
(3) In my bit of the world, there is a real level of training required to use micrometer and cylinder gauges, in fact usually comes as an apprenticeship called fitter & tuners here and few others like mechanical engineers, etc. Why would you assume everyone can simply pick these up and use them like a vernier, it's not that simple and takes skill to use them.
(4) What are broken piston rings, and how do they contribute to bore damage ?

Anyway, maybe you guys in UK all have workshops and trained in this stuff ?
 

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It is not difficult if you can use a normal micrometer then the cylinder ones are basically the same but made to measure bores. Using them is straightforward and reading the result is the same.The piston rings can break if the bores are too big or oval and then they score the bore. So look for scoring. Obviously he cannot do the whole sweep of the bore but the wear will be more evident at the top.
 
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