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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys im new to this forum and new to peugeot so please go easy.

I have a 306 with the TU3JP (KFW) engine.

In the past the headgasket has gone and it has been replaced, however looking in the header tank shows oil in the water and I really need to flush it out as its bitty and slimy.

So here's my questions
Has anyone ever flushed the cooling system on this car and can offer a step by step guide for me.

Also am I right in thinking it needs bleeding after refilling and if so how do I do it.

Is it easy to remove the radiator so I can give it a proper clean with a hose pipe

and how do I flush the coolant that will still be in the engine

Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
 

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Head gasket failure causing oil in the cooling system is quite common on old TU pugs.
Removing the radiator is a pig of a job due to the lower rad hose fitting.The hose has plastic "hooks",a ring to turn,a O ring,a stupid idea and is very difficult to get at,so best left alone.??
There are lots of cooling system flushes on the market but for engine oil contamination I`ve used engine cleaner/degreaser.The sort that washes off with water.
Fill the rad with 2-3 pints of the stuff and run the engine for a while.Then remove the top rad hose (simple hose clips) and thermostat housing and give it a blast with a hose pipe.One or two treatments like that should do the job.
When refilling with fresh coolant there are three bleed valves to open.
top near side of the radiator,small brass allen screw in the thermostat housing,
small plastic screw where the heater hoses fit to the bulk head.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi thanks for the reply so I add the flush to the contaminated water then run the engine for how long then also how do I bleed the system using the 3 bleed locations. Also if I don't get all the air out am I likely to blow the headgasket again
Thanks again for reply
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry and two more question how do I empty the radiator is there a drain plug or something at the bottom, and how am I going to ensure a good clean for the water still in the engine block
 

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There should be a drain tap on bottom n/side of the rad.
We never have a problem bleeding 306`s.Just slacken them off and fill up,when there is a nice flow of water from each tighten up.Fill up to correct level,run engine with rad cap off,slacken the one on the stat` and the heater hose one at a time just to make sure all air is out. Top up,fit rad cap and run engine till fan cuts in.Leave to cool and check level.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi thanks again for your reply you have been very helpful how long would you say I need to run the engine with the degreaser added to the coolant. Also do you know what the normal operating temperature should be so I know if i have done it correctly
 

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Flush it for as long as you like,at least until fully warmed up,the stat` has opened and the rad` hot.The cooling system is then fully circulating.

"normal?" operating temp` can vary,but I would say around 90 driving in average conditions.Obviously it will rise in traffic until the fan cuts in.
Another indication that the cooling system is operating normally is after the fan cuts in,it then cuts OUT,telling you the water is circulating and cooling the cylinder block.

All this is a very simple job so dont get worried about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Thabks for all your replies they Have really helped now I just have to tackle the job I'll post back if I have any problems
Thabks again really appreciate your time
 

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When you have cleaned out the system refill with a 50/50 solution of antifreeze.
Not to stop the block freezing, but because antifreeze contains additives to help inhibit electrolytic reactions between aluminium and iron. Failure to do this can result in cylinder head erosion that may end up with a junk head.

Roger.
 

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Hi thanks for the advice I probably would of done that anyway as I have done this before on a Ford just never a Peugeot so just thought I'd grab some advice before attempting it. Really appreciate everyones help on this forum. Some clever people around. Cheers guys I'll post back the end result once I have flushed it all out
 

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Job Done. I think

Hi so today I have got round to emptying the cooling system I only done it once to get rid of the worst but im going to do some more flushes to completely get rid of the contamination.

Old Pug I followed your steps and would like to thank you for taking the time to write everything you did and therefore I thought I would post back the end result.

Bleeding the system wasn't as hard as I was expecting, however I couldn't get the water to run freely out of the bleed points as was filling it up so I improvised and blew down the expansion tank to force the water round until it come out of the bleed point on the radiator then I closed it then waited for it to come out of the thermostat bolt and closed it and the same with the heater pipes.
Then started it up and open the mentioned two bleed points again and it seems to be fine. I does take a lot longer to warm up now which is better as it used to heat up in 2-3 mins.
Also after looking endlessly I didn't have the mentioned drain tap on the radiator and therefore had no choice but to remove the bottom pipe but I got it back on eventually it was a nightmare to get it back on all the way couldn't get it to go the last 2mm.
Also removed the top hose and put in the hosepipe and let it run out of the bottom pipe to clean the radiator a bit.

My only 2 concerns:
Now im done im just wondering after I have switched off the engine if I squeeze the pipe going to the top of the radiator it feels empty it dosent feel like it has any water in it is this normal.
And also after a flush is it normal to hear water rushing behind the center console for a few seconds when I rev it up. it only happened once I guess this was the new water going into the hater matrix.

Thanks again Old Pug
 
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