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Discussion Starter #1
I've a 2003/4 307 2.0 DTurbo 110BHP with FAP (130,000 miles) and I'm getting lack of power and anti pollution fault with engine management light on regularly. I do 70 motorway miles a day so the car is not lightly used

It was in the garage last week to get the turbo outlet pipe replaced as it was split, however they also said the DPF / Particulate Filter needs changing as the lack of power still remains - Total cost for that £460. The car actually runs better now that this has been changed.

I'm think of changing the DPF myself and was wondering if it’s a job doing myself as I'm fine with general mechanics

Question is where's the best place to get a replacement DPF?
I've heard that Peugeot dealers recondition them and take your own in part exchange for about £150 and I guess I'll still need to buy a gasket and clamp

There are also companies on E bay which also sell them brand new for that price which also includes the fixing kit. Are these pattern parts and has anyone used them or recommend them. I've heard that pattern parts only last 2 years?

I'm swaying toward the reconditioned one as they still would by genuine parts.

In terms of replacing the DPF filter,as the Elloys/fuel additive was filled up last year, technically I shouldn't have to reset any codes in the ECU?

Anything else I need to look out for?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here’s the procedure I have to do the work, does it look about right ?

The filter is attached to the rear of the catalytic converter
The following instructions provide details of the removal and refitting process.

1) Safely raise the car to enable access to the assembly. Disconnect the 2 pipes which connect to the plastic couplings located on the rear engine bulkhead. It is advisable to mark one pipe for reconnection as these are used to sense differential pressure across the filter and hence provide the warning messages.
2) Disconnect the temperature sensor plug from the connector. (the sensor is screwed in to the cat section of the assembly and is fragile, care is required during filter removal!)
3) The cat/filter is held in position by an exhaust clamp at either end and 2 rubber exhaust hangers at the front
4) Remove the clamps/hangers and gently remove the assembly from beneath the car.
5) The nuts and bolts holding the cat and filter together are often quite corroded and require some WD40 or similar to aid in disassembly.
6) Disconnect the stainless steel pressure sensing pipe from the rear of the filter and then, paying particular attention to the temperature sensor at the rear of the cat (you could remove it if needed) undo the nuts and bolts and split the 2 sections.
7) Refit the new DPF with a new gasket and reconnect all pipes
8) Refit to car with new clamp
 

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Dpf

Hi
Have read this on this forum ,By another member.Scotscruz

First of all, all info in this thread is for educational purposes. Only go ahead if you know what you are doing. This information has been gathered from various sources to help members.

Worried about having to pay huge repair bills? how about disabling/removing the system all together safely. Well you answer is below.

STEP 1
To remove FAP/DPF, you first need to read your Engine ECU's original file. This can be done by a Flashtool called Galletto.

*** Read "Using Galletto Tool" HERE

Once you have read the file, save it as original.bin and post it here.

You will recieve a tunned modded file which you can write back to your ECU.

STEP 2This step is to drill one 2 inch hole through the DPF, forget what most people suggest by drilling 5 holes like a dice, (its a waste of time). The inside of the DPF/FAP is made of ceramic which is exactly same as drilling through a wall/plaster etc (remember to put a mask on!!) I used a core drill (see attachments) and drilled a a whole right through.

Benefits of one 2 inch hole through the DPF/FAP:
No back pressure
Sounds Good
More RPM, mine now goes upto 4000rpm
Good Fuel Economy
Car runs smoother
No risk of carbon buildup

STEP 3 Once you have drilled the hole, all you need to do now is to put the modded file back onto your car.

BEFORE you do this, ensure you have unplugged Differential pressure sensor (leave the pipes intact) just unplug it. Unplug the upstream and downstream temperature sensors so regen doesnt kick in (407's only have downstream sensor)

Write the modded file nodpf.bin onto your car and holla, thats it you are DPF free !!

How is it under £100?

£25 for Galletto
£15 for new copper bolts to go on DPF
£10 for core drill bit
£50 labour for taking the DPF and putting it back on in again

Carry this out at your own risk !! the method has been tested on 406 and 607 without any issues, no smoke, no turbo back pressure !

Good Luck and Thank you posts are welcome !!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies, guys - Still considering doing the replacement though

Found out the prices from the stealers

Filter - £264 + VAT (plus £160 refundable deposit on part exchange of my unit)
Gasket - £7.44 +VAT
Clamp - 3.99 + VAT

With a 2-3 working day turnaround :(

So this option would cost £323 all in
 

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Wheelie said:
Thanks for the replies, guys - Still considering doing the replacement though

Found out the prices from the stealers

Filter - £264 + VAT (plus £160 refundable deposit on part exchange of my unit)
Gasket - £7.44 +VAT
Clamp - 3.99 + VAT

With a 2-3 working day turnaround :(

So this option would cost £323 all in
+ filling of additive fluid ££`s
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Had a look under the car today to check the condition of the nuts and bolts etc.. After spraying them all with WD40 thought I'd see which ones undid

The rear exhaust clamp looks like it will need to be cut off, didn't try too hard to undo it in case it broke. I'll be buying a new one anyway so won't be a issue. The front exhaust clamp undid ok, the rear sensor undid ok and the temperature sensor plug looked easy enough to remove

Looking at the pressure sensing pipes conected to the bulkhead look like a pig to remove. Any tips? There is a hole in the subframe below it, so I guess a flat bladed screwdriver could be put through there to help ease them off, or can they be pulled ?

The 4 nuts connecting the cat to the DPF looked pretty corroded. Did try undoing one but looks like they may need to be cut off, so will have to buy some of these just in case, again any tips from anyone. Might be a bit easier once its off the car.
 
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Wheelie said:
I've a 2003/4 307 2.0 DTurbo 110BHP with FAP (130,000 miles) and I'm getting lack of power and anti pollution fault with engine management light on regularly. I do 70 motorway miles a day so the car is not lightly used

It was in the garage last week to get the turbo outlet pipe replaced as it was split, however they also said the DPF / Particulate Filter needs changing as the lack of power still remains - Total cost for that £460. The car actually runs better now that this has been changed.

I'm think of changing the DPF myself and was wondering if it’s a job doing myself as I'm fine with general mechanics

Question is where's the best place to get a replacement DPF?
I've heard that Peugeot dealers recondition them and take your own in part exchange for about £150 and I guess I'll still need to buy a gasket and clamp

There are also companies on E bay which also sell them brand new for that price which also includes the fixing kit. Are these pattern parts and has anyone used them or recommend them. I've heard that pattern parts only last 2 years?

I'm swaying toward the reconditioned one as they still would by genuine parts.

In terms of replacing the DPF filter,as the Elloys/fuel additive was filled up last year, technically I shouldn't have to reset any codes in the ECU?

Anything else I need to look out for?
You won't need a gasket or clamp. Remove the dpf and powerwash it out. I soak them in traffic film remover first for an hour, then blast them.
Put it back up and reset all the counters with Planet. It will work. Done loads of them.
 

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I will be doing this (cleaning and refitting) tomorrow more than likely if a forced regen is not sufficient. I may video document it for future use if it is of interest to anyone?
 

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I would still recommend removing it all together.. I say this from experience.. its been an absolute pleasure driving it since.. the torque, the fuel consumption.. 70 mph at 2200Rpm.. what else do I need..

no need to worry about reservicing after an year..

the info is there.. and we are here to help..

the reason why garages quote high prices is because they replace the diff sensor pressure (which also has its life) the temp sensors etc..

have you considered budgeting the diff and temp sensors??

its your choice mate..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Must admit I am tempted to try the pressure washer method first

@ kaostheory, I would be and I guess alot of other members would be very interested to see your video of the wash out method :thumb:

@ davidireland, with regard to your method, you mention I wouldn't need a gasket. Do you leave the whole unit in tact and pressure wash it or do you mean, once the CAT/DPF has been split, the gasket should be good enough to use again?

Also do you pressure wash the DPF in a particular direction? (open end to back pipe or vice versa) and how much TFR would you need? (5L be enough?)

Thanks
 

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Scotcruz said:
I would still recommend removing it all together.. I say this from experience.. its been an absolute pleasure driving it since.. the torque, the fuel consumption.. 70 mph at 2200Rpm.. what else do I need..

no need to worry about reservicing after an year..

the info is there.. and we are here to help..

the reason why garages quote high prices is because they replace the diff sensor pressure (which also has its life) the temp sensors etc..

have you considered budgeting the diff and temp sensors??

its your choice mate..
hi. just a quick question. how does removal affect the emissions? surely the car would jump into higher band of tax/fail the mot?
 

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Wheelie said:
Must admit I am tempted to try the pressure washer method first

@ kaostheory, I would be and I guess alot of other members would be very interested to see your video of the wash out method :thumb:

@ davidireland, with regard to your method, you mention I wouldn't need a gasket. Do you leave the whole unit in tact and pressure wash it or do you mean, once the CAT/DPF has been split, the gasket should be good enough to use again?

Also do you pressure wash the DPF in a particular direction? (open end to back pipe or vice versa) and how much TFR would you need? (5L be enough?)

Thanks
Split them and pressure wash the filter only, from both ends until it runs clean as per my guide-

http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9444

I re used the gasket every time i have done one.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Right finally got round to doing this. I've managed to get it off ok however on removing one of the pressure sensing pipes (at the green connectors) shown in zooankski procedure below (see first pic)

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/marc.z/index.html/Peugeot Files/

It has come off where the green insulation tape has been applied. Feels like it has been crushed but as its up in the engine bay its hard to see properly

So has anyone had experience of changing one of these pipes? Tracing it seems to show it going up behind the battery. Going to be phoning the stealers in the morning I guess. My main concern is disconnecting the battery to get to where this pipe terminates. Will disconnecting the battery mean reprogramming fobs etc..? don't want to be doing a whole load of other bits on top of this.

On the plus side, managed to get 3 of the 4 bolts which hold the CAT/DPF together. Using a B&D Workmate or similar really helped keep the unit steady whilst removing them. The last nut/bolt I had to cut, however I've bought some new ones anyway. So will be be doing the DPF clean. How about the CAT section, can this be cleaned somehow?
 

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Just turn car off lift bonnet wait 10 minutes then disconnect battery everything will be ok , the cat can be cleaned out in the same way as the dpf.
 
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Wheelie said:
Must admit I am tempted to try the pressure washer method first

@ kaostheory, I would be and I guess alot of other members would be very interested to see your video of the wash out method :thumb:

@ davidireland, with regard to your method, you mention I wouldn't need a gasket. Do you leave the whole unit in tact and pressure wash it or do you mean, once the CAT/DPF has been split, the gasket should be good enough to use again?

Also do you pressure wash the DPF in a particular direction? (open end to back pipe or vice versa) and how much TFR would you need? (5L be enough?)

Thanks
The gasket is a steel one. No need to repalce. It'll save yourself a few pound. You will be able to split the cat from the particle filter. The cat is first downstream from the engine and then the DPF.
 
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