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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Of course the fuse for Tire Inflation is all the way up here and almost impossible to reach, but I`ll give it a try. I was also wondering about the Shunt fuse yesterday and checked the position, it is on the client position.
 

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Of course the fuse for Tire Inflation is all the way up here and almost impossible to reach, but I`ll give it a try. I was also wondering about the Shunt fuse yesterday and checked the position, it is on the client position.
Sometimes when there is a faulty ECU on the CAN bus is can cause a problem on the whole bus. Rather than trying to access the fuse it might be easier to unplug the ECU (7600). It appears to be at the back of the car see attachment.

It might be worth taking the shunt out to make sure it has continuity and also try moving it to the other position and see what happens. The pre-delivery position should only disable a few items while the ignition is off.
 

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I looked a bit more closely at the shunt and most if not all your faults seemed to be linked to the shunt. I also note that it's very close to one of the fuses you worked on. My guess is although it's in the correct position I suspect it's not making proper contact. If it's not making proper contact the following will not work:
Deflation detection ECU
Some switches under the steering wheel- communication unit
Some item associated with the other passenger compartment fuse box
Telematic ECU if fitted
Alarm if fitted
Brake light switch (this would explain why the brake lights are on all the time)
ESP ECU if fitted

I would pull the shunt out and have a look at it to see if it has been hot. If you put it in the pre-delivery position everything should still work when the ignition is on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Tried to check it the other day with a fuse tester and it was giving me the green light. Can try to put it in the other position.
Thanks again Ian for your time! Really appreciate it!
 

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Tried to check it the other day with a fuse tester and it was giving me the green light. Can try to put it in the other position.
Thanks again Ian for your time! Really appreciate it!
The problem has me quite intrigued.

It will be interested know what happens if you move the shunt because most of the faulty ECUs seem to get their power via the shunt. If I am right removing the shunt completely should make no difference to the faults.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I was thinking the same the other day and was checking if it was okey with a fuse tester. But I’ll give it another try and maybe see with ny voltmeter when the car is off
 

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I was thinking the same the other day and was checking if it was okey with a fuse tester. But I’ll give it another try and maybe see with ny voltmeter when the car is off
I think the shunt itself should be okay. Some people call it a fuse but I think it's just a link. If there is a problem with the shunt it's more likely to be the contacts it plugs into in the BSI or a dry solder joint in the BSI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Well I tired to put the Shunt in parc-mode and went to the store knowing the sentral lock wouldnt work, what I didnt know was that the lock on my driverdoor had frozen and I almost had to call car rescue to open the door for me.. But yeah, had the same faults and break light always on.
 

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I am not sure how you managed to lock yourself out. I had assumed you would have had to open the car to move the shunt. However, that was useful because it tells us the fuses associated with the shunt are getting power.

There is one last thing worth doing - try removing fuse 12. If the brake lights still stay on it will confirm that there is a problem with the BSI. The BSI controls the brake lights. The switch only provides a signal to the BSI.

EDIT
I see fuse 12 is difficult to reach so you could try taking the shunt out instead.
 

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I think two of your problems are quite important:
(i) Brake lights
(ii) Oil pressure regulator - this may be a real fault. There are very few details on your engine (DV6FC) in my old installed version of PSA ServiceBox but I can see that there is more information on the current online version of ServiceBox (Service Box ) and there is a procedure to change the oil pressure solenoid. The other 1.6HDi (DV6C) only shows a oil pressure sensor/switch.

If you want to look into this anyone can register for servicebox but they now charge to access any documents.

Rectangle Font Screenshot Parallel Software
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Thanks Ian. I had a deal with myself that if I hadnt fixed it by the weekend I had to call the workshop. So am going to leave the car there tomorrow and they will have a look at it when they got the time. My appointment isnt before next week but they are going to take it in if they got the time. Gonna update you when I hear from them!
 

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Thanks Ian. I had a deal with myself that if I hadnt fixed it by the weekend I had to call the workshop. So am going to leave the car there tomorrow and they will have a look at it when they got the time. My appointment isnt before next week but they are going to take it in if they got the time. Gonna update you when I hear from them!
I think that is wise. Driving with the brake light problem was a bit risky.

I suspect the oil regulator fault is not related to the work you did on the BSI. Edit. There was a Peugeot technical bulletin about P15A4 which requires an update to the ECU software via the PSA server - see TSB Access.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Well thanks for all your help Ian! My insurance is covering this and probably saving ALLOT there. Now the price is only around 500 EUR for everything.

First they tried to replace the breakinglight sensor, didnt work so they replaced the cable going from my BSI to the back of the car and then did a full reset of the BSI. This solved most of the problems but didnt fix the breaking lights. Now they are going to order a new BSI unit and replace the hole thing hoping that would fix it. It has been at the workshop since the middle of december and its going to be 3-6 weeks untill they get the new BSI unit..

So leasson learned. Do not mess around with the brain of the car.... Asked if they could add a cable for me to add the dashbord camera on since they are allready fixing stuff in there.
 

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They think its a short circuit inside of the BSI.
Thanks for the update. It was interesting replacing the brake switch, cable and BSI reset fixed a few things but not the brake lights.

I doubt you caused the problem. I suspect there was manufacturing error (e.g. bad soldering) in the BSI which could have appeared at anytime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Hope so. Not sure if am going to try to add a new cable by myself, asked the workshop and they could add a cable for me to connect to but they would bill me 200EUR for it.

what would be the safest way to get a constant power supply(dashcam will turn off if the voltage gets to low).
 

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Back in days when I used to work part time at my uncle's car radio shop many car manufactures didn't provide a connection for the radio and the same seems to apply with dash cameras now. What we used to do it find a suitable cable near the fuse box and splice into it. We usually stripped back a small amount of insulation and soldered the new wire at that point then insulated the join with insulating tape. Sometime we used these
RS PRO Tap Splice Connector, Blue, Insulated 18 → 14 AWG | RS Components

It sounds like you want the camera to switch off if the car goes into economy mode. This turns the power off if the battery voltage is low but it also turns the power off after 30 minutes if an accessory is left running. I haven't looked into how economy mode works. I assume it tuned the actual power off but it may just turn things off via the CAN bus. Hence, all I can suggest is try to tap off the power to supply to sometime like the radio and see if it works. However, there is the danger that the BSI will detect the power drain and turn the camera off after 30 minutes.

I found this discussion on the forum Hardwiring a dashcam.
The suggestion of using the USB port sounds a bit odd because that is only 5V and I would expect your camera needs 12V but I guess there are some cameras that use either 5V or 12V. If you want the camera on all the time the suggestion of using the OBD connector (or splice your cable to the wire connector to pin 16) sounded good but I doubt it will turn off if the car goes into economy mode. The alternatives
(i) Spice into the accessors connector (cigarette lighter).
(ii) Splice into the power connection on the back of the radio.

You should make sure your cable has an inline fuse very close to where you make the connection. There are many suitable types- some examples:
 
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