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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had my cambelt and waterpump replaced last week on my 307 1.6 hdi, since the job I've been getting a warning 'oil pressure too low' every time I start up but I havnt been able to do anything about it. Driving through birmingham last night the cars STOP light came up and I lost all power and had to pull over. Aa sent out a numpty and he told me to top up the oil, i bought 1l of diesel oil and he topped it up and left- but he wrote on the form- suspected oil pump issue. Then the aa sent a proper guy to have a look and when i told him i have breakdown repair cover with aa he took the car to a halfords and took me n my mate to my mates house in Brum and I'm just left waiting to hear what's going to happen...could it be days???

My questions are why since literally having cambelt changed (as soon as job was done) have I been getting this oil pressure prob. Secondly, sounds like I need new oil and filter, what's the best oil for my diesel 05' hdi ?

Please help!
 

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i would take it back to the garage that did it and ask them to rectify it as they are the one who are suspected of causing the fault.

do this twice and if they do not sort it...trading standards are on your side. (personal exp told me this)

in your user manual it will tell you the recommened grade...personally i use 5w30 but some say 5w40....not much difference to be honest.

as for brand...i would say millers oil, i use this myself and the car sounds quieter and the mpg has improved slightly...but that can be just down to servicing it :lol: mine is due another service in 5k miles (about 4 months to me) so will be defo using millers again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Problem is I didn't go to a proper garage to get the work done, I bought the parts and got this guy I know through someone else to do the work cheap.... So I just need to deal with the prob now, I should mention it to the guy that did it though.

Thanks for advice about what oil to buy, how do I do an engine flush? Would that help along with oil filter change...
 

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Yea it helps slightly, I use it when changing the oil. Just add it to your old oil and run engine for about 10 mins then drain oil. Its supposed to help flush out all contaminants.

Halfords were selling it for £5.99 but I picked up a few on clearance at 99p, comma brand....:D
 

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i've heard about this oil flush stuff...but never tried it. might have to give it ago.

normally i warm the engine a little (to get the oil moving) then i ramp it and drain the oil. wait till all that is drained, then remove the oil filter...last one needed a screw driver in the side and a few words from my french vocabulary. easy enough to do like.

awaiting an email back from a dealer to book my car in for a timing belt renewal. get that and service the vehicle myself :thumb: will have to look at that flush stuff
 

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Would the large rubber washer buggered not have a bearing on it or the oil filter collapsing inside if it wasn`t genuine , this is the cartridge one yes?
 
D

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Would the large rubber washer buggered not have a bearing on it or the oil filter collapsing inside if it wasn`t genuine , this is the cartridge one yes?
No shouldn't do. I reckon the pickup in the sump is blocked.
Was there a turbo fitted lately?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi guys,

Thanks for the replies, I called halfords to check what was going on with my car, the guy on the phone said it needed a new fuel pump?? I think he meant oil pump. Anyway I have to wait a couple of days for the aa breakdown repair cover to Authorise the repair costs as I'm meant to be covered for parts and labour

Anyway, I wanted to reply to peter because when the guy put more oil in I didn't risk going back on motorwAy, the engine warning light came on as usual ( I've been having fap problems anyway)...So maybe the car would run ok, but the thing is I don't think its that there's not enough oil in there, I think it's more that the oil pump/sensor/filter somethings going wrong so there's no pressure..

What concerns me is that the car had no oil pressure complaints (as in the filter seemed fine etc. ) until this guy came over to fit the cambelt and waterpump, wud he have fiddled around with oil pump to try and get more work off me??? The only thing is it was well overdue a service anyway but I'm suspicious as it's exactly since this mechanic did his work that I have a new problem....kind of wish I'd tried to do it myself now!!

I'm going to do a flush, oil and filter change when I get car back. Fingers crossed aa authorize covering the pump change as this way it will only cost me 25 quid excess fee for the job....

Do oil pumps go easily? I suppose it could be sensor issue also?
 

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If its well over due a service then put in a good engine flush and let it run for @idle for 15-20mins before dropping the oil.
You should use 5w30 fully syn oil and change oil&filter every 9k mls as 12kmls+ intervals can cause poor oil pressure problem which can lead to turbo failure and worse again engine failure...:eek:

Hope you don't need this but here is some info when replacing a turbo on the Dv6 engine.

EXTREMELY IMPORTANT INFO REGARDING REPLACING TURBO GARRETT GT1544V,PART 9663199280 ON THE DV6 ENGINE USED BY PEUGEOT,CITROEN,FORD,VOLVE,MAZDA,MINI

RE TURBOCHARGERS: 753420-5005S, 762328-5002S & 49173-07506
PSA 1.6HDi TURBOS 2004+

PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE BUYING THIS TURBOCHARGER!.
The PSA 1.6HDi, DV6TED4 engine is a highly sophisticated low emission, high power diesel unit. It is used in many different applications; Citroen, Ford, Mazda, Mini, Peugeot and Volvo.
Due to the engine being clean and powerful, it is designed to operate at high temperatures, which demands the very best lubricants. These lubricants must be maintained in peak condition and PSA have fitted an in-line oil filter to the turbo and an integral oil cooler/oil filter to this engine to ensure this. However there is a drawback to this; reports in the field indicate that if the engine has been operated with the oil level below normal limits, this may potentially cause a high concentration of carbon in the oil. This may then lead to blockage of the in-line filter, oil cooler and main oil filter, which will eventually bring on premature turbo failure. The vacuum pump may also suffer from this same type of contamination.
However, due to its high operating speeds (230,000 revs per minute) the turbo will usually be the first to show signs of damage. This can happen from 30,000 miles onwards if the oil level and correct oil change intervals/procedure have not been adhered to.
Experience to date suggests that the carbon build up in this application is particularly difficult to remove.
To try to eliminate the potential for further turbo failure, the following MUST be undertaken by the garage, in addition to the normal recommended turbo fitting instructions:

• TURBO OIL FEED PIPE & BANJO BOLTS MUST BE CHANGED.
• OIL PUMP SHOULD BE REMOVED AND CHECKED.
• SUMP MUST BE REMOVED AND OIL STRAINER (PICK UP) SHOULD BE CLEANED/REPLACED BEFORE RE-FITTING NEW TURBO TO REMOVE RESIDUAL CARBON/SLUDGE BUILD UP.
• OIL COOLER AND FILTER ASSEMBLY SHOULD BE REMOVED AND CLEANED.
• REMOVE CHARGE AIR COOLER, DRAIN OFF ANY OIL INSIDE AND CLEAN THOROUGHLY.
• CHECK AND CLEAN ALL INLET AND OUTLET HOSES.
• IF OIL HAS LEAKED FROM PREVIOUSLY DAMAGED TURBO OR ENGINE INTO EXHAUST, CHECK EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR CONTAMINATION/BLOCKAGE (CATALYST, DPF etc.)
• REMOVE BRAKE VACUUM PUMP TO CHECK FOR DEBRIS/CARBON AND CLEAN AS NECESSARY.
• FIT NEW OIL FILTER AND OIL.
• CHECK FUEL INJECTOR GASKETS ARE NOT BURNT OR COMPROMISED. REPLACE AS NECESSARY
• OIL FLOW MUST BE CHECKED:
1. FIT TURBO TO ENGINE LEAVING OIL RETURN PIPE OFF
2. INSTALL A LONGER OIL RETURN LINE AND FEED INTO SUITABLE CONTAINER
3. START ENGINE AND IDLE FOR 60 SECONDS, THEN SWITCH OFF ENGINE
4. MEASURE VOLUME OF OIL IN CONTAINER - 60 SECONDS OF IDLE SHOULD PRODUCE AT LEAST 0.3 LITRES OF OIL.
5. REPEAT TEST TWO OR THREE TIMES TO CONFIRM OIL FLOW IS CORRECT
6. DURING THIS TEST, DO NOT ALLOW ENGINE TO RUN BELOW MINIMUM OIL LEVEL!!
7. VEHICLE SHOULD BE DRIVEN 20 to 30 MILES THEN THE OIL/FILTER REPLACED AGAIN.

And theres more....


Firstly put a good oil flush in the engine for about 20-30 mins. Drain engine oil and change filter. Refill oil with a quality fully synthetic oil.
This can help prevent intial turbo failure.
If Turbo has failed: Remove turbo, oil feed pipe to turbo, oil return pipe from turbo, brake vacuum pump, engine sump and oil pickup pipe/filter.
Where turbo pipe bolts to engine block, blow through engine block to clear any debris that might be in there. Fully clean the brake vacuum pump as
you will find that there is swarf collected. Fully clean out the sump along with the intercooler. Discard the sump pickup and fit new pickup and filter.
fit new turbo oil feed and oil return pipes from turbo. Fit new banjo bolts on oil feed pipe, but firsly remove the gauze filter that is in the banjo
bolt that secures pipe to block. fit new turbo, oil filter and good quality fully synthetic engine oil. Use vehicle for approx 500 miles,
then add oil flush as above and fit new oil and filter
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks risky that's good info...., I have a very worrying feeling I have pushed the car too far over the past few months I.e not getting it serviced when it's due....

In relation to the turbo, is that a particular part that I can change/repair. Is the damage I have done repairable?

I need to look for a good hydraulic jack now to start working properly on it...
 

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To check the turbo remove the turbo intake pipe and insert your tumb & index finger into the turbo intake (Ensure the Engine turned off..:eek:)
There should be a certain amount of play in the shaft...but if it looks like this then you will need to refit a reconditioned/new turbo....:(
If you do need to replace the turbo follow the above info and you should be fine...:)
Ron.
 

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The fact that it restarted probably rules out the crankshaft sensor, which is the only thing I could think of that could have been affected by the timing belt change that would cause the STOP light to come on. Of course that wouldn't explain the low oil pressure warning but the oil issue and STOP light may not have been directly related, just like low oil pressure and the timing belt change are probably unrelated.

You mentioned in another post a "grating" noise coming from the timing belt area and I suggested it may be the camshaft chain. They can become noisy due to lack of tension through low oil pressure. In my case I never had an oil pressure warning but had a noisy chain for a while before it eventually snapped and wrote of the engine :( I wish I had had a STOP warning before that happened!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Your chain snapped?? Oh no... Going to have to add that to the list of things to sort out now! How much does this part cost?
 

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Don't worry, that's a worst case scenario and I'm sure it only happens very rarely. I'd say if you get the oil pressure issue resolved you don't need to worry about the chain. Besides, the noise may be something else. But since you asked I beleive the chain & tensioner kit is around £95. Not too bad but replacing it is a nightmare of a job...as Ron will testify :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
hi david, you said the pickup in the sump could be blocked, how do i sort this out...if it is the problem...


after two long weeks of having no car, halfords got in touch today and said they don't know what the problem is, they thought it was the FAP fluid, but when they checked it was full!

he seems to think its the FAP unit that needs changing...

either ive got to clean the filter out, or remove the whole FAP thing altogether...

any ideas?

.....but my confusion is that the whole issue that came up first was 'low oil pressure!'...so ive got to sort that out as well!
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
one other thing,

with regards to the faulty turbo video, should i check my turbo first in case thats not working, before getting on with the fap clean?

and how much is it for a new turbo.....ebay is saying around the 400 mark...is this right!!?
 
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...and change oil&filter every 9k mls as 12kmls+ intervals can cause poor oil pressure problem which can lead to turbo failure and worse again engine failure...:eek:
It's 20k miles/2 years in the 3008 on the DV6. Considering it's a high output engine for it's size, low emissions, and has to work hard lugging over 1.5 tonnes car car around, there ain't no way I'm gonna wait til 20k has rolled around before dropping the oil!

I know the later DV6's use a modified version of the Garret tubbie so should be much less prone to this sort of thing, but 20k seems a painfully long time for a small motor.
 
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