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Discussion Starter #1
So my battery drained down to about 3v a few days ago after being left idle for 2-3 days.

I charged it up again, and then took off the negative terminal, and checked the amps running through it, and it seems to be pulling about 1.5-1.8 amps all the time!

I removed every fuse, including the boot fuses, and the only one that stops the drain is the shunt fuse.

Anybody know what's going on here?

Every time I check the current flow or attach the negative terminal again, there's a dull click coming from what seems to be somewhere under the brake fluid reservoir\inside fuse box\or somewhere under the ECU. And it sounds like the car is unlocking the doors. If that makes sense? Maybe this is normal, maybe not, I can't remember!

The only odd thing that happened recently is that my left front ABS sensor was wonky, intermittently. It froze up the speedometer twice (once at 28mph), but now it's fine again.
 

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Shunt fuse feeds the BSI power circuits so refitting it is waking the BSI and it WILL draw current you need to wait 3 mins with no power being requested for the BSI to shut down again then the drain will stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Shunt fuse feeds the BSI power circuits so refitting it is waking the BSI and it WILL draw current you need to wait 3 mins with no power being requested for the BSI to shut down again then the drain will stop.
Ah, right. So basically there'll be some power draw for a few minutes after I reconnect the battery (or my ammeter to complete the circuit)?

And, if I connect the multimeter, and wait for the current to drop after the BSI shuts down, I can then start checking fuses?

Or is there a better way to check for battery drain?

Update:
So I left the ammeter on the circuit for about 10 minutes and there was still a 1.45A draw on the battery.

I disconnected and reconnected the battery again, and then this time, after 3 minutes it went down to 90mA, and then 30mA. Which I assume is normal.

Maybe the BSI went haywire after the speedometer went wonky last week, and wouldn't shut itself down or something?

This seems to rule out any mechanical items such as alternator or AC etc.

I'm hoping it's sorted itself now, but I suppose I'll find out soon enough if the battery drains again.

Any other thoughts on this are welcome..

I was going to do a BSI reset, but then remembered I need the remote fob to complete the procedure. And the RFID board in the car is not working..
 

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You do not need the remote fob to do a BSI reboot. It is only mentioned for cases where the problem includes the fob not working.

The best way to check current drain is to use a clamp meter. Put it around either the positive or the negative battery lead, and the BSI will stay shut down while you pull fuses. Otherwise, every time you pull a fuse and reconnect the ammeter, you will have the 3 minute wait.
 

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The parc shunt has two positions: normal and park. In the latter some electrial systems are disabled in order to prevent battery drain while the car is parked for an extended period.

So that is a red herring.

It sounds like you witnessed the BSI powering down as it should.

Guess: previously something was keeping the BSI awake, e.g., it thought a door was open.

Can I ask: exactly how are you measuring the current? We had a 307cc that went flat if not used every day and never got to the bottom of it.

Can anyone recommend a clamp meter?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You do not need the remote fob to do a BSI reboot. It is only mentioned for cases where the problem includes the fob not working.

The best way to check current drain is to use a clamp meter. Put it around either the positive or the negative battery lead, and the BSI will stay shut down while you pull fuses. Otherwise, every time you pull a fuse and reconnect the ammeter, you will have the 3 minute wait.
Ah right! Thanks! I thought the process seemed a bit convoluted alright.


The parc shunt has two positions: normal and park. In the latter some electrial systems are disabled in order to prevent battery drain while the car is parked for an extended period.

So that is a red herring.

It sounds like you witnessed the BSI powering down as it should.

Guess: previously something was keeping the BSI awake, e.g., it thought a door was open.

Can I ask: exactly how are you measuring the current? We had a 307cc that went flat if not used every day and never got to the bottom of it.

Can anyone recommend a clamp meter?
Oops.. I may actually have had the door open at that time when measuring the current! lol

When measuring the current, I had the multimeter, with crocodile clips, connected between the negative terminal of the battery and the negative connection. Essentially using the meter to complete the circuit. And using the 10A setting, and connection, on the multimeter.

I checked it again now, after leaving it overnight, and the battery is still at 12.6v so it seems to be fine.

So, it seems that it was just a random battery drain then. Weird.
I don't think I've ever seen a battery go down to 3-4v after only 3 days. I thought the economy mode kicked in after 30 minutes or something. But I suppose if it was a computer glitch, then it might have prevented that.

I'll keep an eye on it, and probably disconnect the battery if I'm leaving it somewhere other than home overnight, or just switch the shunt.
 

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Can I ask: exactly how are you measuring the current? We had a 307cc that went flat if not used every day and never got to the bottom of it.
Just put the clamp around either the pos or neg battery lead - whichever is easiest. You will see the BSI shut down; the current drops abruptly, and (on my 206) you can hear the relay click at the same time.

Then remove fuses one by one, whist watching on the meter for the current drain to reduce abruptly. Replace each fuse in turn - it prevents errors! When you find the fuse which does cause the current drop, you know the circuit involved.

You then replace the fuse and have to individually disconnect each service fed by that fuse, until you get the current drop again. You really need the SEDRE to identify the services and cable runs. If none of the services on that fuse causes the problem, it has to be a cable or connector insulation defect.
 
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