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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I have 2005 307SW 1,6 petrol.

Today is the second day since the problem started. First I've noticed that car is idling at 1000RPM (when hot). Later that day I was driving as usual when ABS fault message popped on. Few seconds later it was gone. Car driving as normal. Then ABS fault appeared again with Passengers Airbag and Drivers Airbag. After few seconds the power steering was gone. The car felt like cutting out and coming back. Just had enough time to park on the side of the road when engine died. When tried to start - nothing. All pointed to flat battery.
I was lucky that my home was near. Came back with the power pack. Car started and died again after 5-6 seconds. Decided to wait. After about 30 min. car started and drove as normal.
Today had same story. First the battery fault and then power steering gone, brake fault, ABS fault and Airbag fault. At the end the engine cuts off.

So this means:
1,New battery
2.New alternator
3.Clean the connectors on the battery

P.S.
About month ago there was interesting episode. In the morning car battery was flat. After power pack start everything was ok till this month.

Please help me. I need my 307 on daily basis.
 
C

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You need batt and alt testing to be sure, but sounds like it could be the alt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply.
What readings I should get if the alternator is OK?

Does dead/dying alternator explain high idle RPM and why the problem starts after about 10-15 min of driving? (heats up?)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've checked the voltage:
Test 1
Battery only: 12,6V
Engine started: 14,2V

Test 2
Engine started: 12,5V (after about 40 sec. alternator started 14,2V)

Test 3
Engine started: 12,4V (alternator does not work, battery voltage drops)

Test 4
Engine started: 11,8V (again, alternator does not work, V drops)

Test 5
Lazy engine start, V drops, and alternator sleeps.

Do I have dead/dying alternator which charges the battery only sometimes?
 

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It does look like the alternator but the info is a bit vague as you don't state how long the car was run for in each test or what the time period between tests was. I assume that when you say the alternator was not working it means no increase in voltage was observed. Where were the voltages measured and at what engine RPM? Really the voltages need to be measured at the alternator terminals to rule out a wiring fault as car alternators are not self exciting. If you measure the voltages at the alternator terminals it is best to clip the leads on before starting the engine to avoid any accidents with the drive belt. Best way to check is to measure voltage at alt terminals with no load then switch on as many items in the car and check voltage again, both tests are best done at 1500 - 2000 RPM. If you get the same results as before then I would say the alternator is faulty if you still have doubts post results on here.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The voltage was measured at the battery. When alternator was working and showing 14+ V, I switched blower, all lights, radio and rear window heater. The voltage dropped to 13V. But that was the only when alternator was working. On all other tests the alternator was spinning but there was no increase in volrage. Tomorrow I will check all wiring connections and will try to connect the multimeter to the alternator.
For each test the engine was running for about two minutes. There was about minute breaks between the tests. Tests were done at about 1K RPM. I will post the results tomorrow.
I just can't understand why the car was idling at 1K RPM? Can alternator explain this?

Thanks for information.
 

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Generally measuring at the battery is perfectly acceptable but when there is a charging problem like yours you do need to eliminate a wiring fault by finding out if the alternator is effectively permanently connected to the car. It quite likely is the alternator, probably the brushes and slip rings are worn but you need to make sure so you don't replace it uneccessarily. As for the idle I can only think that if it is caused by the alternator it is because the ECU has detected that the alternator is not charging and has increased the tickover to try and compensate.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for information. I will check the wiring tomorrow. If I will get same readings from the alternator connectors and the battery connnectors it means dead alternator?
In this case should I go for refurb alternator or try to fix mine? I wonder how much it will cost to replace the brushes?
 

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Thank you for information. I will check the wiring tomorrow. If I will get same readings from the alternator connectors and the battery connnectors it means dead alternator?
In this case should I go for refurb alternator or try to fix mine? I wonder how much it will cost to replace the brushes?
Yes I would say so. I tend to refurb my own, can be a problem because brushes often wear the slip rings out too so replacing the brush/rectifier pack may not be the only job it needs. It's lucky round here as there is an autoelectrician in Liverpool that can replace slip rings but if your're not that lucky to have that sort of facility locally you may have to settle for a refurb unit, in which case buy from someone you trust or a reputable supplier as there is a lot of rubbish out there. Just Googled for alternator brushes for yours and there are suppliers of them but everything wants a Reg No these days so couldn't find a price.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Today I've started the car. Alternator was charging the battery. Checked the woltage with lights, radio and other stuff on : voltage was 13. Switched off when the engine reached the working temperature. Srarted again and the alternator was still sleeping. Only 12.5 V at the battery. So it looks like problem starts when engine is hot. Both day when I had this problem away from home, I was running the engine for about 10 min. And both days the engine was switched off and restarted few minutes later. Both days the alternator after restart was not charging the battery and I was driving till the battery was no longer able to keep the engine running.
I can't reach reh alternator terminals to check the voltage there. I think now the only solution to go to the garage and let them check everything...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi all,
I've solved the problem. Over the weekend I've decided to remove the alternator. Replaced brushes and now everything is OK. :)
 

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if your revs are surging up and and then going down may well be the alternator faulty ,but you would be best putting it on the pp software, it could be something simple and the alternator is not cheap , so i would definatley check the diagnostics first.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Idling problem is gone after new brushes installed. Can't believe that tiny cheap part solved the problem. Well the garage would charge much more....
 
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