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Discussion Starter #1
Replaced front struts and springs today, and I thought whilst the car was up, I'd replace the bottom ball joints as one was a bit worn.

4 hours later, the ball joint is still in the hub carrier. I've had an air impact ratchet on it, blow torch, lashings of WD40, breaker bar, the kitchen sink, everything was thrown at it, but it hasn't moved an inch.

Any thoughts on what next? If at all possible, I don't want to have to buy a new carrier. I might try take the whole thing off and try it in the vice at work, but I won't have enough time to commit to it until next Friday. Which means I'm driving around with a loud clunk on the O/S, as the rubber sock was knackered. Hopefully it won't be doing any damage.....
 

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the vice is the best idea also if you used heat it should have moved, the brother normally wait its glowing and it comes off better it can be done on the car but I would always take the hub off as its far better only a extra 10/15mins of work
 

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you can try a stilson. they are a real pain in the arse.

there is a safety tab onto the hub stopping it from undoing if its not tight.

over time with rust they fuse together. try breaking the seal might help

i found if its original its a proper job if not with copper slip should be ok
 

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could you not get the nut off, or not get the balljoint seperated?
i only ask because i done mine recently and had one of each flavoured traumas each side. Knowing i was going to fit a new balljoint, i used a pair of stilsons on an extension bar the get the old balljoint nut off.
The other side though, i gave in and bought a balljoint seperator. i think it was only a couple of quid.
 

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Hub carrier off,locked solid in a big vice,lock tabs thoroughly cleared,a perfect socket and a very big long bar is the only way.(and big strong arms)
They are a ******!!,trying to do on the car is hopeless as it all moves about,it has to be locked solid.
Naturally fit the new one with lots of grease on the threads.Why they don't do that at the factory beats me.
 

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They dont grease them as they dont want them coming loose !

This can actually happen it happened to me on a 505 and it has happened to my son on his 406 they gradually unscrew as you steer eventually falling out the hub !

I agree though it needs a vice i have seen us resort to welding the balljoint to its case to get a bigger area to grip with stillsons to get them loose
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The nut came off a treat with the rattle gun, the joint is not coming out of the carrier for love not money.

I'll have to get it in a vice and give it some wellie with a scaffold bar for more leverage.

The amount of heat I had on it should have been enough to break the corrosion, so hopefully with some more elbow grease and swinging off the scaffold bar it'll work off
 

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My dads one we ended up with a vice and cold chisel and club hammer as socket rounded nut due to small contact patch and big bar trying to shift it
 

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Glad I read this one :) Going to get both sides done Chap who sorted my broken coil spring said dodgy looking bushes but buy whole arms and new ball joints So may well go that route best to be Aware of these things before starting a Job
 

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If you want to remove the ball joint make sure you have the right tools.
A quality 6 point impact socket is #! requirement. If you don't have one don't even start the job.
To go with the socket you will need a powerful impact gun or a good quality breaker bar.
As has been noted you might get a good upper body workout getting it shifted.

However, if you don't have the tools needed you can remove the hub assembly and take it to a local repair shop and ask (nicely) if they will get it off for you. It's best to do this before you round of the hexagon, no mechanic likes sorting out someone else's botched job. A heavy plant or truck repair shop will have the tools required, and so will a tyre garage that does commercial tyres.
Often the shop manager will say "OK, but give the mechanic a drink", or a contribution to the tea fund will be all it costs you, like I said, ask nicely!. :)

When you put the new one on be sure you don't get it cross threaded, and use thread locking compound as well. They are on tight for a very good reason. I believe they are supposed to be torqued to something like 300nm. But f#cking tight is what you need.

Roger.
 

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i dont think haynes dealt with ten years worth of english roads when they took apart the cars..it would be far more realistic if they did..all jobs would involve mapp gas and plus gas and dirty great big breaker bars... every picture of the mechanics hands would have claret on them.. half drunk cups of tea and a look of frustration on the mechanic's faces.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hoooorah! Success!

Got the hub off and into the vice, a few blasts with the windy impact gun to "loosen" the ball joint and we're in action.

I managed to break a breaker bar (the irony.....), and eventually worked it off with a modified ratchet (the drive has been welded solid so there's no movement in it) with a 6 foot aircraft torsion bar to amplify the moment on the joint.

They're definitely built to be a tight fit - the new joint was almost as difficult to get in as it was to get the old one out.

And getting the ball joint shaft into the suspension arm was a stinker of a job. Definitely a 2 man job!
 
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