Peugeot Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 2009 Boxer has suffered from bad starting for the last four years. It’s only covered 22500 miles since new and the bad starting started at 12000 miles. It’s had camshaft and crankshaft sensors changed, spent a week at Robins and Day in Bristol, only for them to give it a clean bill of health, despite their Puma fault reading report giving two error codes –
P0200 Voltage Converter fault, Local, Temporary, Open circuit
P0603 Control Unit, Local, Temporary, Electrical Failure
I’ve also stripped back the wrapping and checked the wiring looms behind the nearside headlight and couldn’t find any corrosion in any of the cores. The engine earth strap has been changed.

The bad starting is mainly in the winter, when the vehicle stands idle for longer periods. Occasionally it starts on the first turn of the key, other times it starts and runs for 10 seconds, but more often than not the engine turns over but won’t fire. When this happens the engine management light comes on and stays on, even after I’ve managed to get it started. When it is running the engine behaves absolutely normally.

I’ve read that the fuel pump is energised for around 20 seconds on the first turn of the key. On mine, the pump comes on for only 5 seconds and, if the key is left in the first position, it comes on again after a further 17 seconds and stays on for 33 seconds. This doesn’t seem normal to me and I have recently found that if the key is left in the first position for a minute or so before cranking, it usually starts ok.

I’m certainly no expert but my feeling is that there’s a fuel shortage at start up. Could the fuel pump relay be faulty perhaps? If it could be, where is it located?

So if any expert could give me some clues where to look next I’d be more than grateful. It’s driving me mad!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,779 Posts
My 2009 Boxer has suffered from bad starting for the last four years. It’s only covered 22500 miles since new and the bad starting started at 12000 miles. It’s had camshaft and crankshaft sensors changed, spent a week at Robins and Day in Bristol, only for them to give it a clean bill of health, despite their Puma fault reading report giving two error codes –
P0200 Voltage Converter fault, Local, Temporary, Open circuit
P0603 Control Unit, Local, Temporary, Electrical Failure
I’ve also stripped back the wrapping and checked the wiring looms behind the nearside headlight and couldn’t find any corrosion in any of the cores. The engine earth strap has been changed.

The bad starting is mainly in the winter, when the vehicle stands idle for longer periods. Occasionally it starts on the first turn of the key, other times it starts and runs for 10 seconds, but more often than not the engine turns over but won’t fire. When this happens the engine management light comes on and stays on, even after I’ve managed to get it started. When it is running the engine behaves absolutely normally.

I’ve read that the fuel pump is energised for around 20 seconds on the first turn of the key. On mine, the pump comes on for only 5 seconds and, if the key is left in the first position, it comes on again after a further 17 seconds and stays on for 33 seconds. This doesn’t seem normal to me and I have recently found that if the key is left in the first position for a minute or so before cranking, it usually starts ok.

I’m certainly no expert but my feeling is that there’s a fuel shortage at start up. Could the fuel pump relay be faulty perhaps? If it could be, where is it located?

So if any expert could give me some clues where to look next I’d be more than grateful. It’s driving me mad!
whats the battery voltage before starting, while cranking and then after starting?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,951 Posts
2009 is likely to be a transit engine and i did not think they would have a tank pump as transits dont !

Your van is a bit of a kit car having fiat origins although built in france with a ford engine !!
look up fiat ducato its the same van fiat immobilisers are prone to these issues and fuseboxes can get damp and rotted connections.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
whats the battery voltage before starting, while cranking and then after starting?

12.44v
10.00v
14.40v

Voltages taken at the battery

ps Went to take the voltages this morning and the van wouldn't start (or fire). Left the key in 1st position for a minute or so, still wouldn't start. Left it a further 10 minutes or so (can't remember whether the key was in 1st position) and it started first time, but eml is on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,779 Posts
whats the battery voltage before starting, while cranking and then after starting?

12.44v
10.00v
14.40v

Voltages taken at the battery

ps Went to take the voltages this morning and the van wouldn't start (or fire). Left the key in 1st position for a minute or so, still wouldn't start. Left it a further 10 minutes or so (can't remember whether the key was in 1st position) and it started first time, but eml is on.
your battery needs changing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
your battery needs changing

Battery was replaced with a new Varta a couple of years ago. It made no difference.

The cranking speed is normal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
10v when cranking is low so maybe the starter motor is drawing too much current or the battery is faulty (new batterys can fail too)

I can see where you're coming from, with perhaps insufficient voltage reaching the ecu when cranking.

But sometimes it will start and run for 10 seconds or so before stalling. In this 10 seconds the alternator will be supplying sufficient current to keep the ecu alive. Which is why I still keep coming back to fuel starvation. I'm probably wrong but I'm thinking of replacing the puel pump relay, if I could find it!

When it does start there is no white smoke from the exhaust which would indicate that there is no unburnt fuel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,779 Posts
10v when cranking is low so maybe the starter motor is drawing too much current or the battery is faulty (new batterys can fail too)

I can see where you're coming from, with perhaps insufficient voltage reaching the ecu when cranking.

But sometimes it will start and run for 10 seconds or so before stalling. In this 10 seconds the alternator will be supplying sufficient current to keep the ecu alive. Which is why I still keep coming back to fuel starvation. I'm probably wrong but I'm thinking of replacing the puel pump relay, if I could find it!

When it does start there is no white smoke from the exhaust which would indicate that there is no unburnt fuel.
the vehicle will not like the voltage going down then back up and this can cause all sorts of problems with computers

try put a booster pack on or jump leads and see if that helps
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top