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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2017 1.2 308 with the auto start stop, however it seems a bit pointless. I understand that it does not work with aircon on, however I was trying it out the other day and the only time it would kick in is if I had the blowers off also. So no airflow through the fan system at all! Which to be honest seems totally ridiculous. Is this correct or do I need to return it again to the dealer?
 

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Ours will go into S&S when the fan is running so if yours never does then there's something wrong.

If you have the fan off (a bit uncomfortable I know) does it S&S quite often?

EDIT - Our 308 is diesel and yours petrol so just possibly that makes a difference but I wouldn't have thought so.
 

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It depends on how much jus in your battery. my one also 1.2 petrol and it works exactly as same as yours. However, sometimes S&S works even air con is working but can't last long. And S&S is not working when weather is too cold or too hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It happened as soon as I turned the fans off and every time I put in neutral and lifted the clutch.
The battery level was low and then the dealer charged the battery up but it seems odd that I can’t use it if the fans are on
 

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There are the whole bunch of conditions ECU pay atention on.
- battery voltage
- capacitors capacity
- alternator temperature
- outside temperature
- inside temperature
- desired temperature
- ....

if I remember well, more then 70 ....
 

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There are the whole bunch of conditions ECU pay atention on.
...
if I remember well, more then 70.
This is a list put together by Marc at French Car Forum (tip of the hat to him)

These are some of the parameters that will prevent the stopping of the engine, split into user and system conditions:

User conditions prohibiting stopping of the engine:
•Driver’s seat belt not fastened
•Driver’s door open
•Stop and start function deactivated
•Changing out of reverse gear with a timeout of 10 seconds when exiting reverse mode on vehicle fitted with piloted manual gearbox
•Accelerator pedal pressed
•Deicing/demisting of the windscreen
•Cabin temperature not corresponding to the request from the driver (variation in cabin temperature ± 3°C relative to the request from the driver)

System conditions preventing stopping of the engine:
•Not having exceeded 10 km/h after the initial starting with the ignition switch
•Not having exceeded a timeout of 4 seconds between 2 stops
•Not having exceeded a timeout of 2 seconds since the previous restart
•When the authorisation to stop the engine occurs more than 4 seconds after the initial request by the driver
•Inadequate vacuum reserve
•Engine requirement (*)
•Fuel temperature above 60°C
•Thermal protection of the alternator
•Battery temperature above 60°C or below -5°C
•Power accumulator temperature above 55°C
•Central voltage retaining device ECU temperature above 90°C
•Battery charge status below 75%
•Reconnection of the battery
•Limit of 6 stops per minute
•Recalculation of the injectors drift
•Particulate filter regeneration
•Power accumulator voltage insufficient
•Internal resistance of the battery above 5,6 mΩ
•Regulation by the dynamic stability control system
•Not having exceeded 10 km/h after application of the electric parking brake
•Power steering system downgrade mode
•Altitude above 1700 metres for vehicles fitted with the DV6C engine and a piloted manual gearbox
•Wear of the components of the Stop and Start system
•Stop and Start system in downgrade mode

(*) The engine requirements are the following:
•Respect of the depollution norms
•Optimal engine operating temperature
 

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Stop Start is a system which I wouldn't use on any car. Frankly, the pitiful amounts of fuel it saves, it takes it out on your engine longevity. Most wear occurs on starting an engine up as there is no oil pressure.

Frankly the system should be setup so YOU can "pause" the engine, because shutting down the engine for 20 seconds is pointless.

As said previously, there are numerous reasons why your car won't enter into S&S. I had a brand new 1.2 C3 as a rental, it never went into S&S once, whereas my brother's car did it all the time... even when it really shouldn't have!
 

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Most wear occurs on starting an engine up as there is no oil pressure.
Read into modern stop start systems and you'll see they aren't as wear intensive as you'd think

Keep it properly serviced and don't cheap out or use the wrong grade oils and the difference is minimal!

But to add to the thread, mine will go into S&S with fans running as well
 

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Read into modern stop start systems and you'll see they aren't as wear intensive as you'd think

Keep it properly serviced and don't cheap out or use the wrong grade oils and the difference is minimal!

But to add to the thread, mine will go into S&S with fans running as well
I have and that's how I reached my conclusion. At the end of the day, no amount of technology or engineering can overcome the laws of physics. When the crankshaft / camshafts, turbine spindle etc is spinning, it's not actually in contact with the bearing surfaces but separated by a super thin film of oil...when these things stop spinning, that boundary oil separation dissipates and metal to metal contact occurs - that's when the wear happens.

Sure there are advancements made in bearing material friction which increases MTBF... but doesn't overcome it. Servicing helps in this regard to keep the additive package in the engine oil intact but again, no advancement in technology is going to overcome the laws of physics.

That's how taxi's get up to those super high miles on cheap filters and oil, when driven hard in arduous conditions, it's simply because the engines are always warm and running most of it's day.

Cars are seen as throwaway items now and car manufacturers would rather sell you a new car every 5 years than have a car last 20 years. Just like the "fluid for life" in gearboxes... gearbox oil has a shelf life of 4 years sat on a shelf in a store room... unused yet in a gearbox, it's for life. :confused:

When considering a vast proportion of carbon is created during production of the vehicle, frankly, keeping an older car on the road is friendlier to the planet than buying a new one several times - a fact Mazda have pointed out with their cradle to grave assessment.



Anyway back to the OP - get the car booked in. Make sure you get a piece of paper stating that you took the car in to investigate the fault (should be on the receipt) and invariably they will tell you nothing can be found and it's simply one of the user parameters not being met. If there is something, it will be covered under warranty.

That way, in a few years if something goes wrong with the stop start system after warranty, you can refer back to this and negotiate a free repair if it's relatable - something that is faulty within the warranty period is eligible for repair after the warranty has ended provided you brought the issue to the attention of the warranty provider within the warranty period.
 

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Well, depending on what climate setting you have it on, affects if the auto start-stop kicks in.

My GT works as it should. Given all other parameters are in scope, it'll pause the engine even if I have the climate air con on AND the desired interior temp has been attained. Usually the engine self-starts again after a min as the interior warms up rather quickly with the compressor off.
 

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When the crankshaft / camshafts, turbine spindle etc is spinning, it's not actually in contact with the bearing surfaces but separated by a super thin film of oil...when these things stop spinning, that boundary oil separation dissipates and metal to metal contact occurs - that's when the wear happens.
....
It's partial correct. This thin oil film does'nt disappear right after engine stopped - surfaces are still lubricated/coated with oil. On the other hand, don't you think the engineers are well educated and excell in what are they doing? They need to come over here to enrich their knowledge .... :)
Yes, a few decades ago that's was right, wha are you talking about. And that was a reason why Formule E project does'nt succeeded back in 80s.
Now a new much better oils are available, new materials and processing ....
Now, with new engines and oils Taxi driver does'nt need to run engine all the time.
 

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Mine only starts to work after 2 or 3 hours driving sort of 200 miles been to dealer 3 times says that's how it should be.
I think it is the battery but he refuses to supply new one under warranty as car starts each time even on coldest of days.
 

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Mine only starts to work after 2 or 3 hours driving sort of 200 miles been to dealer 3 times says that's how it should be.
I think it is the battery but he refuses to supply new one under warranty as car starts each time even on coldest of days.
Make sure fans are set to low speed (2/3 speeds up from nothing seems to be my limit)

Make sure temperature is set to 14 degrees and not LO, and obviously have AC and Auto off

After a bit of testing those 2 things seem to stop mine from going into eco

:thumb:
 
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