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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys, wondered if anyone could help:

About 3 weeks ago it was particularly wet weather on way to my dad's and as I was entering the A10, my dashboard start beeping at me, and the generic antipollution error message came up. The car lost acceleration and went into limp mode.

As I came off the fast road I felt the car was juddering a lot and idling roughly at lights etc. As I reached my dad's house and got out, the engine fan was going.

After this, the car engine fan comes on as soon as I turn engine on and stays on a long time after I turn it off which keeps running down the battery. I thought maybe changing spark plugs, so got 4 new ones from euro car parts for £44 and put them in with no change - the old ones looked in bad shape though so probably good to have changed them.

When I was testing how engine was running and trying a few procedures I found on line, the battery went flat, I think this is from the fan coming on every time. I thought seeing as I had breakdown cover and was away from home, I'd call out the mechanic and see what he thought. first he said coil pack needs replacing, but I showed him if you swap them over its still the same cylinder misfiring so he agreed it wasn't that, and said maybe fuel injector.

Then he plugged his diagnostic computer into the dashboard to check the ECU, and got these messages:






The mechanic was convinced my ECU was broken and said I might have to buy a new one for £700 - £1000.

I talked to another mechanic and he said to send it off to ECU testing for testing and repair, and they would sort it for about £260. So I sent it off hoping it was broken, and could be repaired, I pay the money, plug it in and sorted.

I got a call back 5 days later, they'd tested the ECU and it is working perfectly! How annoying, so I paid the £70 they wanted and now have it back.

I'm unsure what to do now, I'm guessing it must be a wiring issue between the ECU and Cylinder 4? I've checked all pins on the plugs for corrosion and they all look fine, no obvious corrosion or damage to visible wires.

Anyone dealt with something like this before?

Cheers
 

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have you checked all the fusebox plugs also?
dephasing coherence could be the real problem, this can be cause by many things wires/cam sensor/soleniod valve/ chain / tensioner.
also note a bad coil/plug can also cause it and cylinder 4 is cam chain side(check this)
try a bsi rest first.
 

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I had a cylinder misfire issue with my RCZ. Running rough, limp home mode, fan on etc etc.

Turned out it was a coil pack. £20 and 2 minutes work it was fixed.

Having said that, I have diagbox so was able to make a reasonably accurate diagnosis.

Before I spent any money I moved the coil packs around to see if the code moved. It did.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hello guys, cheers for advice,

Bit of an update and I put the car in the garage... they have looked at it and said there is no pressure in the cylinder at all.. and they would have to strip the whole engine down to find the fault. This would be £500 before even attempting to fix the fault, which they think may be a burnt out or cracked valve.

Is it time to call it a day with this car and get a new one, seeing as I bought it for £1000?
 

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These engines also drop valve seats causing poor running and compression issues as the valve never works properly it can be a severe money pit even a used replacement engine will be £600 !!
 
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