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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Not another MAF question

Ok this is more looking for opinions from others as i suspect I'm going to end up replacing the MAF anyway.

recently the power has been lacking at the top end and i'm suspecting the MAF is starting to get a bit weak.

I'll give my reasoning why i'm leaning towards the MAF at this point. The van is a 2005 2.0 HDI peugeot expert with 95k on the clock. I've had a high flow pipercross oiled filter in from about 25k miles so as you'd imagine the MAF has been cleaned a good few times usually with carb cleaner sprayed through it, but on occasion lighter fluid or carb cleaner on a cotton swab brushed lightly across it. Its safe to say i've given it way more abuse than it would usually have seen so its probably due a replacement any way.

I've had a basic scan tool hooked up and read the live data as best Torq (android app) can mange and it is still getting readings but under heavy load it's hitting the top of the air mass dial. at lower revs if i take my foot off the pedal for a split second the value jumps up. Turbo is spinning up and showing a max boost of around 16psi for a brief period if i really push it to accelerate hard (it settles down quickly though as the load settles down)

so any opinions if i am at least following a sensible track, or if my reasoning is seriously flawed?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
well bit of an update.
changed the MAF which has made no difference.

first thing in the morning the van drives fine and my 15-20 mile commute to work is fair going. I use the van for work so it does a fairly constant stream of short journys through out the day (usually not more than about 6 miles a piece) and the performance drops off through the day. so by my reconning it has to be some thing heat related. I have noticed that the EGR and turbo solenoid valves seem to get quite hot though i have no reference to be able to tell if this is normal or not.

I can hear the turbo spooling up so i'd guess that is working. though its a lot less noticeable after the power goes
the best description i can give of how it feels to drive when the power has dropped is that it feels like there is excess back pressure in the exhaust and the engine is fighting to push the gas out. I know there is no restriction in the CAT as it has been gutted, and given that it feels fine first thing in the morning the rest of the exhaust is fine and nothing has collapsed. the exhaust note does seem to change and it sounds less smooth and more tractor like.

does any one have any idea, other things i can look at or test that might give a bit of insight into whats knackered.

cheers in advance
 

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If solenoids are getting hot that means they have power and are working I would swap the egr one with the boost one see if it helps as the boost one works hardest and can wear out.

You can actually plug the feed to the egr solenoid with a bolt just to be sure its not pulling the valve open a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi thank you for the suggestions reliable406.
tried plugging the EGR vacuum pipe and there wasn't any real difference. just to be 100% sure I was blocking the right valve i also tried moving the block to the other one when i was nearly at the office. definitely right the first time!! and confirmed that the turbo is still blowing.
I had replaced its solenoid a couple of weeks ago when i started having issues so it is brand new.

for the first time today it might have given me a glimmer of a hint where to look next. parked up with a wall on the other side of the road in a fairly quiet area so i could hear the noises it was making bouncing back. almost sure i can hear air rushing out some where around the turbo/egr area. can just hear it with the van idling if i put my head to the drivers side wheelwell or under the bonnet with my head down in by the alternator. cant hear it over the other side.
so up on the ramps again this weekend and see if i can find it
 

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You should never clean the MAF, you risk damaging the wires or leave tiny fibres on it which will burn. The MAF is self cleaning by running a high current on the wire to burn off anything.

If you must clean it, then use a liberal dose of electrical contact cleaner and allow to dry.

A faulty MAF will bring up a fault code of P0101 to P0104.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
You should never clean the MAF, you risk damaging the wires or leave tiny fibres on it which will burn. The MAF is self cleaning by running a high current on the wire to burn off anything.

If you must clean it, then use a liberal dose of electrical contact cleaner and allow to dry.

A faulty MAF will bring up a fault code of P0101 to P0104.
no codes at all sadly that would at least give me a starting point. I replaced the MAF on tuesday so i'm fairly sure its its not the root of the problems.
going to get it on the ramps over the weekend and start looking for air leaks in the hosing.

stuck an order in for a diagnostic interface box and pp2000 (ebay clone) in the hopes of giving fate a bit of a poke and the problem might suddenly become very obvious and fixable before it arrives. if not then it should at lease give me the ability to get half decent live data and maybe even point me to a cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok bit of an update, it not quite 100% back to normal, but it's probably about 90% there. Problem seems to have been that the jubilee clips on the air intake hoses were loose. not just one of them but pretty much every clip needed tightening. still waiting for the diag box to arrive but hopefully that will point me in the right direction for the last 10%
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok the updates continue. after a few weeks of driving about it made a couple of god awfull noises while the van was idling that lasted a second each. it seems to have perked up a little bit more afterwards, hopefully it was just a pocket of air caught in the high pressure rail, just hoping it wasnt the last hurrah before some thing explodes.
 
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