Peugeot Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The fault was only noticed after the vehicle was left for around 4 weeks while I was away from home. The fan now runs from the moment the key is inserted into the ignition until a little after it is removed even when it is left overnight and the ambient temperature is around 10C. The battery is good and the car has successfully regenerated. I have spent hours looking at the valuable posts on this issue and so I can confirm that I have checked the oil filler cap and it is closed tight. I have only one fault showing:

P0495 : fan assembly circuit
Characterisation : consistency between the fan speed and the setting
Status : permanent fault .
Location : local .
Variables associated with the fault
• Engine speed : 1376 rpm
• battery voltage : 144.57 Volt(s)
• Engine status : Engine running
• coolant temperature : 46 °C
• measured fuel pressure : 275 bars
• accelerator pedal position : 0 %
• supply voltage 1 : 4.99 Volt(s)
• supply voltage 2 : 4.99 Volt(s)

The temperature gauge is working correctly. Am I correct in thinking that there is only one temperature sensor and that feeds both temperature gauge and the fan and so the temperature sensor cannot be at fault? I have tried to locate the sensor to remove the connections but having removed the air filter housing and moving lots of the loom I can only get a couple of fingers around what I think is the sensor but cannot feel how to unclip the wires.

I have made some measurements of the connector to the fan and wonder if anyone can tell me if they are correct or what to try next.

When the key is inserted into the ignition and the fan power connector (with relay) is connected (but not the black connector on the car to the grey connector on the fan) the following voltages are present for a short while.

The bottom slot on black car connector is at 12V
The top slot is at 0V
The middle slot is 10.7 V.

With the fan off the car the grey connector has resistance between the 3 pins that is high (open circuit).

All help is appreciated. Is it likely to be the fan or some sensor on the car?

407SW 2.0 HDi 2007
Many thanks
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
11,766 Posts
My 307 did this. It was down to dirty relay connectors. There was obviously a switching voltage turning on the fan but not registering the shut-off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Many thanks Gibbo – I assume you mean the relay next to the fan – I will take it off and test it it when I am next at home in the light. – I had assumed it was ok as I could hear clicks as the fan turns on and off when the key is inserted or just after it is removed.

Just in case it is not the relay - I was also hoping that someone would know what is inside the fan – should the three pins appear open circuit when not connected or has a control circuit on the fan failed?

Can anyone tell me what voltage I should read on the middle slot of the black connector when the fan turns on or is it not that simple and the control is by varying the mark space ratio of a pulse width modulated signal?

I would much appreciate a diagram of either the fan circuit or the specification of the output of fan control circuit.

If all else fails I am considering using an after market “Variable Thermostat Temperature Control Kit for Radiator Cooling Fans” and using the relay in the kit to reconnect the middle slot of the black connector when the temperature of the top hose as it leaves the engine is above 80 C or so (trial and error to prevent overheating as registered on the guage in the car).

Any thoughts of a better solution?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I tested the relay and it seemed to make and break as it should but as it was easy to swop I tried a new one –but the fan behaved just the same as with the old one.

I tried another breakers yard 40 miles from home as they said they had 407 2.0 HDi with a working fan - when I got there it was off the car and may have been from a 1.6 HDi (according to the guy working there). The connections looked the same but again the fan did not work at all even as the temperature gauge approached 90 C.

My question is now simple - is the fan on the 1.6 HDi the same as on the 2.0 HDi and should it work on the 2.0L HDi?

Not such a simple question – how do I test my fan? – It runs but how do I test that it runs at the correct voltage?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
I tested the relay and it seemed to make and break as it should but as it was easy to swop I tried a new one –but the fan behaved just the same as with the old one.

I tried another breakers yard 40 miles from home as they said they had 407 2.0 HDi with a working fan - when I got there it was off the car and may have been from a 1.6 HDi (according to the guy working there). The connections looked the same but again the fan did not work at all even as the temperature gauge approached 90 C.

My question is now simple - is the fan on the 1.6 HDi the same as on the 2.0 HDi and should it work on the 2.0L HDi?

Not such a simple question – how do I test my fan? – It runs but how do I test that it runs at the correct voltage?
colin I have sent you a email with wiring for the fan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Peugeot fan repair with a new ECU

Hello!
I have a problem with cooling fan driver on my Peugeot 407. It is spinning all the time. Recently I found information about new ECU for Peugeot, Citroen fans. That people repair their fans just replacing old ECU with a new factory made one... Has anyone heard anything about it????
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top