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So my 307 2.0 HDI 110 has done around 130,000 miles and was due for an MOT.

It had a few issues including a squeaking noise coming from the alternator, my plan was to put it in for an MOT to see whether there were any other issues that it was going to fail on, see how expensive I thought everything reported back would be to fix, then make a decision on whether it was cost effective to keep the car or not (with the alternator being the first thing to get sorted if I deemed the car was worth it).

So the car went in for the MOT and I had a call saying the alternator belt had broken during the MOT, but the car had passed. The car now had a flat battery and was sitting in their workshop, they wanted to know whether I wanted them to replace the broken belt. They quoted £56 for this, which I OK'd, mainly because I didn't have any way of getting the car home from the garage less than £56.

I called them back a few hours later to see if the car was ready, they said they were struggling to get it started due to an immobiliser issue. They were about to shut so said they were going to leave it until the morning, see if it reset, and try again.

No word from them the next morning (today), so at midday I call them, they say they tried for another hour and made no progress, pushed it out of the workshop. I asked what was next and they basically said they were out of ideas. I probed them for more info and they said the alarm goes off as soon as you connect the battery, I asked how they got charge into the car, which they said was via a battery booster.

So, to me, it sounds like they have fried the BSI by connecting it to a battery booster and trying to jump start it. The car had a flat battery a few days ago and after putting it on charge for 6hrs it started fine with no electrical issues.

I am saying this is their problem as they shouldn't have jumped the car (they are saying the battery booster has surge protection etc) and they are saying that the problem is due to the snapping of the belt (my argument against this is that the alternator only provides charge to the battery, once the belt snapped it couldn't have done anything further to the electrical system, such as fry the BSI, although at this point there is no proof the BSI has gone I suppose).

They want me to move it to one of their other garages at my expense, who they say "have a better chance of sorting it than they do". They said that if the other garage determine that it is their fault they will foot the bill, otherwise it would be up to me to pay.

Any help on where I stand would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Its NOT the immobiliser the timing belt has jumped teeth so it wont start !!

Garages are terrible at overlooking the basics and always go straight for the computer !
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its NOT the immobiliser the timing belt has jumped teeth so it wont start !!

Garages are terrible at overlooking the basics and always go straight for the computer !
What about the alarm sounding as soon as the battery is connected to the car?
 

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IF the belt was a clean break and did not tangle in the bottom pulley they may have kept it running to do MOT and battery voltage dropped too low and wiped BSI key codes.

Check for beep with keys in ign after switching on then off and opening door if no beep keys need coding
 

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This is true but the battery would need to be seriously crap to go flat in the time it takes to do an mot :)

We dont know ALL the facts was it running AFTER the belt broke or did it cut out if it cut out it is more than likely as i say the timing belt if they ran it till it cut out then the BSI may have lost the codes

Either way its not likely the immobiliser thats the REAL issue.

The alarm sounding once battery is reconnected is normal it thinks someone is trying to steal it and needs reset with remote !
 

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Discussion Starter #6
IF the belt was a clean break and did not tangle in the bottom pulley they may have kept it running to do MOT and battery voltage dropped too low and wiped BSI key codes.

Check for beep with keys in ign after switching on then off and opening door if no beep keys need coding
Thanks windy, the keys not being coded to the car was one of my thoughts too. I just got back from the garage, the state of the car is as follows:

  • No beep when you have the key in the ignition and open the door.
  • Alarm sounds whenever the sensors detect movement, not when the battery is first connected.
  • Neither electric window functions.
  • Car is in economy mode.
  • Nothing else seemingly weird happening on the dash, not loads of blinking lights or dials fluctuating (I had this when I charged the battery before, but not anywhere near enough I guess)
Put it on Planet, after selecting the model and it first reads from the car I got the following:


Which doesn't inspire at lot of confidence. Did a Global Test which the BSI said "no faults found" and the Engine ECU said "Warning: ECU fitted to 307 EDC152C2 RHS", "presence of faults" where it wouldn't usually give the warning. It also tested for lots of ECUs it doesn't have (sunroof, driving school etc) but presumably the warning and these extra modules are just because it has failed to detect the cars info at the beginning, not indicative of anything deeper wrong.



I did have a poke around the key coding section, I don't have the customer code it was asking for and there is no sign of it in the owners manual pouch. I did put in some numbers and rather than saying they were wrong, it gave the following:


Although as it doesn't seem to have communicated with the car in the first place and got the VIN etc, I guess it probably wouldn't be able to verify this number if I did have it anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also looked at the info for the BSI and Engine ECU's:





Last thing I looked at was this screen, which seemed relevant:



Not sure what to do next really, does anyone have any thoughts from what I have posted about whether the car is salvageable? It seems at the very least it needs to keys re-paired to the car but as Planet seems to be failing to get the info from the car, it might not be able to do that (or am I reading too much into that)? Also how do I get the customer code it asks for when trying to re-pair?

Thanks all!
 

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Your not really looking in the right places and dont put the wrong access code in it will lock you out !!

What you have posted suggests that the key codes are lost but its not due to the booster being used its more likely as windy suggested the battery went too low.

All the other issues economy mode etc are BECAUSE its not starting

The alternator RUNS the car it does not just charge the battery the battery ONLY starts the car once started its the alternator that keeps it going.
 

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Your not really looking in the right places and dont put the wrong access code in it will lock you out !!

What you have posted suggests that the key codes are lost but its not due to the booster being used its more likely as windy suggested the battery went too low.

All the other issues economy mode etc are BECAUSE its not starting

The alternator RUNS the car it does not just charge the battery the battery ONLY starts the car once started its the alternator that keeps it going.
Yep, I realise all that. So how do I move forward from here?
 

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You will need the access codes to recode the keys first there is NOTHING that will fix it no resetting bsi or anything else unless of course its simply a blown fuse but if your not seeing the VIN then i doubt its just a fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've found the card.

Anyone got any idea why it isn't reading the VIN etc, whether this could be a problem with reprogramming the keys or whether any of the screenshots or info I have provided point to a bigger problem?
 

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Just input the card code and recode the keys first if the BSI is blank you will need to input lots of things manually including the VIN but it is fixable just be careful not to change the locking type as this can damage the door locks the driving side needs set correctly or the windows work in reverse but its just time to fix.

ASK if unsure before doing anything
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just input the card code and recode the keys first if the BSI is blank you will need to input lots of things manually including the VIN but it is fixable just be careful not to change the locking type as this can damage the door locks the driving side needs set correctly or the windows work in reverse but its just time to fix.

ASK if unsure before doing anything
If the BSI is blank, assuming I can re-code the keys, should this be enough to get the car started and drive-able? Or will I need to do the manual steps you talk about before I can drive it anywhere?
 

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coding the keys should be enough to make it start if the BSI is not blank then thats it job done
If it is blank then you need to input any missing data and reset windows tell it radio type etc etc some of it will fix itself some wont
 

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coding the keys should be enough to make it start if the BSI is not blank then thats it job done
If it is blank then you need to input any missing data and reset windows tell it radio type etc etc some of it will fix itself some wont
Is there a way of getting a list of all the things that my car has/doesn't have for help in filling in these settings? From my VIN perhaps?
 

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I visited a member who couldn't start their car after jusmp starting it. The PP2000 screens looked very similar to the ones you have posted. Went through all the ECU's putting everything right than reprogrammed the keys. Started up fine though he still needed to charge or replace the battery.
 

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Thats what im trying to tell him !

Your BSI is NOT fried as you say its simply wiped or corrupted as some call it and it was not the jump starter that wiped it it was the low battery that caused the problem jump starting CAN cause issues if done stupidly but a booster wont cause any harm i have used booster chargers to start cars many times.
 
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