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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

I recently bought a 307 2.0 LX HDI build code 9243 (end Feb 2002), last eight digits of VIN are 82375805. Engine is RHS. Bosch EDC15C2 ECU.

Peugeot ServiceBox describes it as a 110bhp despite the V5 stating it is a 90bhp. I believe PSB in this instance as it definately has a DFP fitted.

It has the one piece CAT/DPF pipe. I bought PP to do my own diagnostics and the first lot of results can be seen in my first thread here...

Since that post I've fixed the ABS/ESP/ASR faults caused by two speed sensors (water ingress in connector on front and dirt/gap too large on back).
Also fixed several other smaller faults such as dodgy indicator, horn not working, instrument panel management lights hidden by previous owner with black insulation tape stuffed into the panel, devious little pr**k!!)

So as it stands I have the anti-pollution warning to contend with and an error that I believe means a new set of glow plugs/relay is needed though from what I read this second problem is not urgent.

Driving the car...

Starts well first time even in the recent coldish (UK) weather however it does idle fairly rough and causes the car to shake until warmed up (I assume no pre/post heating is the cause?)

It seems to have very little power at low revs in all gears (even when warm) but when I reach around 2800 rpm the turbo does its job and the car accelerates well (kinda takes off!), even up these numerous Welsh valley hills.

There is some white smoke from exhaust when first started but I've not noticed it after driving off.

The car goes into limp mode occasionally and the engine management light comes on. The last time this happened was when I tried to induce a regen by booting it up a straight road (staying in 3rd to maintain high revs). It went into limp mode after ten seconds or so.

Whilst taking parameter measurements with PP (car stopped) I was building the revs gradually. Once revs got to about 3k or more with accelerator held steady the revs started to surge and drop in a rythmic way. I'm pretty sure I could hear the turbo speeding up and slowing down in time with the revs. This worries me as the only things I have read about this suggest a faulty sensor (repeat sensor?) in the turbo and means bug bucks :eek:

Fuel consumption is very poor I think. Most of my driving has been short trips with just a few longer (20 mile) runs on decent roads. The average mpg according to the MFD is just 20.5 :nono:

Now for the PP error codes...

After clearing all codes and going on a short run I got:

Intermittent fault. Pre/post heating relay circuit. Circuit opened.
Intermittent fault. Pre/post heating relay circuit. Circuit stuck.
Intermittent fault. Catalytic converter upstream temperature signal. Short circuit to earth.
Intermittent fault. Differential exhaust pressure signal. Coherence of the differential pressure when stopped.

The following codes are usually there as well and will probably re-appear once I drive a bit more:

Catalytic converter. Catalytic converter upstream temperature signal. Short circuit to positive or circuit open.
Particle filter. Particulate filter punctured or exhaust differential pressure info.

Without engine running the differential pressure sensor seems to be reporting a value of 118mbars. Is this a random value or is it a value often seen in a broken sensor?
I've also read that if the values don't change when the car is revved the sensor is broken but in my case they do change. At tickover it reads about 80mb and reduces to under 30mb at around 4000rpm. What should it be reading at tickover? 5 to 10 mbars?

Is it difficult to get at the sensor and the pipes leading to the DPF or is it just a case of removing the battery (as per 3 minute rule) and the battery tray?
Also, in another thread someone had a picture of the pipes they removed from their car and they seemed to be made of a hard (non-flexible) plastic yet the ones on my car seem to be made of a flexible rubber held onto the DPF with metal spring clips. The rubber is fairly stiff but can be compressed with my fingers if I squeeze hard. Is this normal on some cars or could the pipes be a hack replacement that is causing problems?

As for the upstream temperature sensor, how do I get at it to remove it?
I understand it is attached to the turbo housing? I looks like a nightmare to get to from underneath, can I get to it from the top?
I wish to check the wiring before ordering a new one. Also is this part a stealer only part or available from a motor factors?
The temp sensor reads a pretty constant 100 degrees C (odd flicker to 104) even when the downstream temp sensor is reporting 140+ so I guess its knackered or shorted.

Finally I've attached a screenshot of Principal parameters 2 from PP, do these look normal?

Sorry for the long post, once I get started I can't stop! :rolleyes:




0 Posts
He'll mean the one on the centre pillar, white with a picture of a car on it!

Sounds like you have the 110 though!

Out of interest what is it insured as? that could come back to bite if your insurance are going off the DVLA (incorrect) info!
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